M10 Ross Rifle need info

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From the photos, it almost looks like this one might be with an original chamber and not an enlarged one.

Is there an "E" or a "LC" stamped on the top of the barrel just in front of the receiver?

Could you give us some close up pictures of the barrel in that area?

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beside the proof mark with the crossed flag is the letter E

there is also the letters PT under the recever if i remove the stock
also 4 numbers behind the cocking handle
and ive yet to get a black light to find the stock markings
is it even possible to find a full lenght barrel and stock
 
buffdog said:
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From the photos, it almost looks like this one might be with an original chamber and not an enlarged one.

Is there an "E" or a "LC" stamped on the top of the barrel just in front of the receiver?

Could you give us some close up pictures of the barrel in that area?

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Click to expand...

i may be blunt but what would the E stand for?
 
Enlarged? Chambers were reamed larger in a misguided attempt to reduce functionning problems.
After the first shot you will be able to see what was done.
 
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After you fire your first rounds, they will be blown out slightly. In this instance, it is best NOT to full length your cases if you reload because it works the brass too much.

Simply keep the Ross Cases seperate, and NECK SIZE them only when reloading. This will keep from overworking the brass and help prevent case head seperations.

LEE makes a Competition Die set for the .303. It has both a full length resizing die, and a collet type neck sizing die that simply squeezes the case neck back to hold the bullet. Well worth it, and very reasonable.
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buffdog said:
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After you fire your first rounds, they will be blown out slightly. In this instance, it is best NOT to full length your cases if you reload because it works the brass too much.

Simply keep the Ross Cases seperate, and NECK SIZE them only when reloading. This will keep from overworking the brass and help prevent case head seperations.

LEE makes a Competition Die set for the .303. It has both a full length resizing die, and a collet type neck sizing die that simply squeezes the case neck back to hold the bullet. Well worth it, and very reasonable.
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Click to expand...

Ok il keep that in mind for the future what about store bough, or if the occasion comes in my dream or a gun show, surplus ammo does it change anything for that?
 
No problem firing new or surplus ammo. It will just enlarge the case a bit, but the case is perfectly useable IF you neck size it and fire it in the same rifle. The problem is that .303 cases, if full length resized back to original dimensions, will fail due to excessive working of the brass. This creates a crack round the body of the case about 1/2 inch from the rim, and when you fire it, the rim and part of the body of the case extracts but the forward part of the empty case remains stuck in the chamber.

If you continue to fire the same cases in the same rifle, they will go back into the chamber becuse they are already fire formed to YOUR rifle's chamber. They may or may not fit another rifle of the same calibre.
 
Probably not worth searching for a full length barrel, because then you will want a stock with original stamped data, then you will need metal parts, including forend cap with bayonet lug, which is practically unatobtainable. If you really want a pristine example, be prepared to cough up BIG bucks. But you can have one HELL of a lot of fun with what you have!
 
Ross Markings

My 1910 has a.....

(unreadable number) 6 8 with the letters R K under on the stock

the bolt has no numbers, but the letter H or R followed by an F

the letter E is stamped in the barrel

below the ross rifle co canada m-10 patented is the crossed flags with crown and the letters D P C or G

this is one of my fav guns and shoots like a dream...
 
Mine isn't bad. It's shortened but still packing a lot of wood / weight
rossrifle1.jpg

Bubba'd LE's kick more typically IMO as they are usually stripped further.
 
Crown over crossed flags and DCP is Dominion of Canada Proof. This marking was applied only after the rifle had been factory-tested by Canadian Government Inspectors with a massive overload. Working pressure for the M-10 with .303" ammunition was 18.5 ILT per square inch: 1 ILT (Imperial Long Ton)= 2240 psi, so the working prssure is 18.5 x 2240= 41,440 psi. Exactly the SAME action (they were built as actions an finished as whatever was required at the time) was appoved for a working pressure of 28 ILT (62,720 psi) when operating with the .280 cartridge. What actual pressure the action CAN handle has never been determined: Ross tested the 1905 action at 125,000 and said that he had tested the far-stronger 1910 at 150,000.

Funny about the recoil. Personally, I find the Ross to be relatively mild as to recoil, although I find the Kar 98k most unpleasant and the P-'17 to be utterly brutal. When shooting Lee-Enfields, I find that my "proper" fit is with a Normal butt, although the Short feels more comfortable.

Rifle-to-shooter "fit" is extremely important. What utterly AMAZES me is that the British have known about this, and done something about it, for more than a CENTURY..... while the rest of the world has sat by and gawked at those silly Brits and their stupid oddball-length stocks.

Funny, God might have made all men EQUAL..... but He sure didn't make them all the same HEIGHT.

Time the rest of the world woke up and realised this tiny, small, itty-bitty, insignificant little fact.
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