M14 Barrel chop and thread?

asphalt599

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I posted this and gunshmithing and got very little response. Hopefully the M14 guys in here will chime in with some advise.


I just ordered a new Norinco M14 and want to chop the barrel and make a shorty. Probably going to be using a friends lathe.

From what I gather the thread i should be using is 1/2-28 for the new flash hider/brake. Is that correct? I don't have one picked out or made yet so i want to go with the most common. How long of a thread should I cut on the end of the barrel...3/8"-1/2"?

I am thinking about making it 18 5/8" just to be safe. Good idea? What is the best way to measere the barrel length once the barrel is off. can I just measure from the chamber end (right from end)towards the muzzle or will that give an accurate actual barrel length?

Is there anything I need to be aware of with this procedure? I'm not talking about machining skills...other tips i might overlook in shortening a barrel or with chucking the barrel.

Can I just face the end or do I need a certain contour?

Assuming the head spacing is correct when I get it.....if I reinstall the same barrel what are the chances of creating a head space problem?

Tips and advice are greatly appreciated.
 
Before you take the barrel off. Stick a cleaning rod down the barrel till it touches the bolt face. Mark the rod at the end of the barrel. Measure it, and do the math.when you have the barrel off just measure from the end back. If the barrel is 22 inches subtract 18 5/8 off that , and thats what you cut.
 
Just the questions you have asked lead me to believe you should have a gunsmith o the work.

Also note the bbl is chrome lined and you don't want to chip it when parting off the bbl.
 
Before you take the barrel off. Stick a cleaning rod down the barrel till it touches the bolt face. Mark the rod at the end of the barrel. Measure it, and do the math.when you have the barrel off just measure from the end back. If the barrel is 22 inches subtract 18 5/8 off that , and thats what you cut.

Yeah I understand that part of things I was just thinking about measuring whith the barrel off. I will just do the cleaning rod thing and then take the barrel off.
 
Just the questions you have asked lead me to believe you should have a gunsmith o the work.

Also note the bbl is chrome lined and you don't want to chip it when parting off the bbl.

Thanks for the support.

Its not a hard procedure I just want to make sure I have all the correct information and the easiest way to do things. Because I have never done it before I should never try?
 
Measure the barrel where you are going to be threading it. Make sure it will fit the brake. Have the brake on hand before cutting and threading.
As you point out, it isn't all that difficult a job. Basically you have to get the stupid setscrew out of the receiver, grab the barrel in a barrel vise with properly fitted jaws, grab the receiver ring with a properly fitting receiver wrench, and unscrew the barrel. If proper barrel vise and receiver wrench are not used, there is an excellent chance of damaging either the barrel, the receiver, or both. The barrel might be in tighter than you expect.
Barrel length is officially measured from breech face to muzzle face. Hard to do with the barrel off, best to do some calculations first.
Really good idea to allow a bit of extra length, and not cut at the minimum.
Once the barrel is shortened, cut it square on the lathe. I prefer to do the threading, and then cut the finished crown. Thread the barrel to fit the brake. You want a nice fit. Use a very sharp tool and cut from inside toward the outside when crowning. You want the brake to screw on so that its bore and the barrel bore are coaxially aligned. The threads have got to be cut correctly to achieve this.
Make index marks on the receiver and barrel before unscrewing; will make it easier to turn the barrel back in to index, assuming the barrel was correctly indexed to start with. If it wasn't, correct it. Taking the barrel off and reinstalling it shouldn't change headspace. If it is loose, it isn't going to get any better. Don't know what you are using for a front sight.
 
Measure the barrel where you are going to be threading it. Make sure it will fit the brake. Have the brake on hand before cutting and threading.
As you point out, it isn't all that difficult a job. Basically you have to get the stupid setscrew out of the receiver, grab the barrel in a barrel vise with properly fitted jaws, grab the receiver ring with a properly fitting receiver wrench, and unscrew the barrel. If proper barrel vise and receiver wrench are not used, there is an excellent chance of damaging either the barrel, the receiver, or both. The barrel might be in tighter than you expect.
Barrel length is officially measured from breech face to muzzle face. Hard to do with the barrel off, best to do some calculations first.
Really good idea to allow a bit of extra length, and not cut at the minimum.
Once the barrel is shortened, cut it square on the lathe. I prefer to do the threading, and then cut the finished crown. Thread the barrel to fit the brake. You want a nice fit. Use a very sharp tool and cut from inside toward the outside when crowning. You want the brake to screw on so that its bore and the barrel bore are coaxially aligned. The threads have got to be cut correctly to achieve this.
Make index marks on the receiver and barrel before unscrewing; will make it easier to turn the barrel back in to index, assuming the barrel was correctly indexed to start with. If it wasn't, correct it. Taking the barrel off and reinstalling it shouldn't change headspace. If it is loose, it isn't going to get any better. Don't know what you are using for a front sight.

I think you answered basically all my questions. Thanks for your help.
 
I am looking forward to doing this. Have to wait for the M14 to show up then the work can begin. I have a neat idea for a custom brake/flash hider but I will either have to make it myself or have it made so it might be a bit before that gets finished. Thinking I might pick up a standard AR15 flash hider and put it on untill I am able to do the custom one.
 
Just the questions you have asked lead me to believe you should have a gunsmith o the work.

Also note the bbl is chrome lined and you don't want to chip it when parting off the bbl.

This is the worry i have, i was going to get mine done at local club but have read elsewhere that you shouldn't chop just buy a new barrel, can anyone comment on this please.
 
I don't really want to spend the money on a new barrel. I know there are gunsmiths doing chops for about $120.
I think if you do like Tiriaq said facing from the bore out to the edge with a very slow feed and sharp toolbit it should be fine.
 
Many a shorty has been built up on my bench. Tiriaq's post is excellent and thorough info.
While I perform about a dozen shorty jobs a month, my bench is currently closed to new work.

there's nothing wrong with cutting down a norc barrel, the obvious things will be taking care to not flake the chrome lining, and getting your threads concentric to the bore..... absolutely critical on both counts.

It has been found that ballitstically , with the .308 bullet in the M14's gr weight range, a 19" barrel would be optimum for ballistic performance. Following this thinking ..... and also as a "buffer" in case the crown ever needed repair, I do all the shorties in my shop at 18.75" , a full 1/4" over the minimum for non restricted.

if you have the tools, the nerve..... and maybe a spare barrel off the EE........ I say go for it ;)

and for those wanting thier barrels chopped for a very reasonable rate, p.m. me and i'll refer you to my preferred machinist for the job , who has cut and crowned 100's of chinese barrels for me and others, with not one issue.
 
Just pulled the barrel off tonight. Had to warm it a bit with a torch to get it to break free(just warm..not hot). Monday night I will be heading out to a friends to do the chop. really looking forward to getting this project together.
 
CHOP IS COMPLETE!!!!! Took it to my frineds (toolmaker) tonight and chopped the barrel. 18 5/8". turned out really nice. Just finished puting it back together and it looks mint.
 
As am I.

My comments weren't meant to dissuade you, I was under the impression you had no lathe ability and were going to try it yourself.

For anyone doing this themselves, here are some tips to make the job easier and improve the chances of a good job :

1) Use a steady-rest and make your lathe cut well out toward the tailstock. Leave the barrel at least 1/4" oversize and cut a bevel at the bore mouth for a steady rest, then make your threading cuts.

2) Once it's threaded, then face the barrel back to final length and crown. If you are concerned about the chrome lining, pushing a .30 cal lead plug into the muzzle before parting the last bit off will protect the chrome from flaking.
 
As am I.

My comments weren't meant to dissuade you, I was under the impression you had no lathe ability and were going to try it yourself.

For anyone doing this themselves, here are some tips to make the job easier and improve the chances of a good job :

1) Use a steady-rest and make your lathe cut well out toward the tailstock. Leave the barrel at least 1/4" oversize and cut a bevel at the bore mouth for a steady rest, then make your threading cuts.

2) Once it's threaded, then face the barrel back to final length and crown. If you are concerned about the chrome lining, pushing a .30 cal lead plug into the muzzle before parting the last bit off will protect the chrome from flaking.

I am a Millwright so I'm compitent on a lathe. My friend who actually did the work is a toolmaker (30-35 years experience). he has a machine shop in his garage. He knows his stuff. Turned out really nice. Didn't have any issues with the chrome flaking. Final length was 18 5/8".
 
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