m14 barrel chop

masterduckmaster

masterduckmaster

Regular
Rating - 99.5%
183   1   1
so, i have been looking and it seems some people favors the choped 18.5 inch barrel.
I want to know whats the pros and cons on chopping down the barrel beside making it look extra cool :D.

thanks !
 
masterduckmaster said:
so, i have been looking and it seems some people favors the choped 18.5 inch barrel.
I want to know whats the pros and cons on chopping down the barrel beside making it look extra cool :D.

thanks !
Click to expand...

More accurate due to less whip from a shorter therefore stiffer barrel.

Minimal muzzle velocity decrease -

:ar15:
swingerlh.gif
 
Do not question the Chopper!

There are no Cons to the chop, less weight + non stricted = goodness.
Infact chopping mine to 18.5 " cured my virginity :)
 
Last edited:
There's no real reason to chop your bbl unless weight is a concern (you have to carry it) or you want to for aesthetics. I run both, no appreciable difference between barrels.

Basically, a matter of preference.
 
masterduckmaster said:
really?!:eek: i always thought longer barrel yield better accuracy...:confused:
Click to expand...

A longer barrel (as in a bolt or direct impingment semi auto gun) can be more accurate than a shorter barrel, but when you put all the extra mass of a vibrating gas cylinder and reciprocating gas piston on the front of it, it makes the barrel move a lot more.

Shortening the standard barrel makes it stiffer, therefore it bounces and whips less. (put the receiver in a vice and pull down on a long barrel and watch the bend, do the same with a shortie, pull down much harder and watch it bend less)
A heavy barrel replacement does the same.

The minimizing of the whip makes an M14 more accurate - very noticable when the barrel gets hot - (Less hot barrel P.O.I. variation and group size increase due to barrel stretch and change of whip)

My shorties also shoot tighter than my longies in Sage and AKM op rod guide anchored free float barrel set ups.
The Sage and AKM designs are noticably more accurate than the standard stock design and makes the short long barrel accuracy difference more noticable.


:ar15:
swingerlh.gif
 
Just remember that a shorty is purdy LOUD ... ;) I love my shorty and I love my original Springfield M1A ... :D

Otokiak
Rankin Inlet, NU
CANADA
 
I have a lathe and an m14 would you have to unthread the barrel from the receiver hack saw to a close length, put it it in the chuck, face and then thread or is there a more simple way of going at it?
 
without a jig for your chuck to mount the barrelled action into..... you must remove the barrel. you must also get the threads concentric to the bore. in most cases the outside diameter surface of chinese barrels is not so concentric...... you must also use the correct parting tool so as to not destroy/flake or otherwise damage the chrome lining.
otherwise..... piece of cake.
 
In terms of chopping, the easiest way is to part the barrel about 1/4" too long, then turn the diameter off to VERY thin for that last 1/4". Cut that off to within about 1/16" with a hack saw (be very careful) and then use a stone ball the grind away the last little bit. This *SHOULD* keep the chrome intact.

Alternately, cut it off a bit long as per above and then pound a piece of soft lead into the muzzle end of the bore and face off the barrel to length and crown it, then remove the lead. This will also protect the chrome.

For threading, mount the barrel in a chuck with a steady rest around the gas port area. Do your threading way out by the tailstock with the barrel muzzle up against a live centre. This will ensure your threadform is acceptably concentric.

Cheers from the machine shop ;)
 
pretty much any machinist should be able to chop your barrel, I did mine myself. The only limit is the machine - if it can chuck the barrel with the receiver still attached or not. I used very small lathe so that receiver was still outside the pulley on the back with the door open.

As to loudness - try firing it with muzzle break and with no ear protection. After first few shots it won't bother you again.
 
22lr said:
As to loudness - try firing it with muzzle break and with no ear protection. After first few shots it won't bother you again.
Click to expand...

LOL, that's funny :D

Here on the west coast we have been using the skills and top notch equipment at Dlask Arms Corp ( no link a they are not a site sponsor) for cutting crowning and threading. Literally hundreds of barrels have been modified and not one damaged rifle. There is no need to remove the barrel, Dlask has a proprietory jig specially made to turn the entire barrelled action...... for those not wanting to remove loctited scopemounts and forward rails, this is a bonus as they can be left in place for the entire procedure. I also pick up there once a month for those wanting accurizing work after barrel cutting ;)
 
FWIW, if your lathe spindle through hole is large enough, you can just stick the barrel through the headstock to work on the muzzle. The downside is that you want the threading operation to take place as close the the live center as possible os the threads are concentric to the bore and not the barrel contour like if you work out at the chuck end.

@Thomas: Do you know if Dlask uses a lead plug to protect the chrome, or are they just parting off and crowning without worrying about it?
 
OOPS:

I've had MANY M14 TAKE OFF barrels shortened by Dlask,
with never a problem. Excellent work, very accurate threads concentric to the bore, very nice Crown.
HOWEVER,
months ago, IMMEDIATELY AFTER JOE MOVED HIS SHOP,
I took over FIVE M14 rifles to be shortened, WITHOUT removing the barrels from the receivers.

I picked them up without checking,
expecting the usual superb workmanship,
BUT,
when I got home ALL FIVE OF THE CHOP JOBS HAD THREADS THAT WERE NOT PERFECTLY CONCENTRIC WITH THE BORE, and the so called crowning job was pathetic. Plus, there were new marks on the previously unmarked M14 receivers, where they had been chucked up in the lathe.

I was NOT HAPPY!!!! One muzzle was so far off center from the threads that I had to replace a compensator because .308" bullets hit a .350" bore hole when I test fired for sight in. I had to make another trip back to Vancouver, to have Joe RE-do all of the crowning, which he did for free, but I was still out over $100 for the ferry fees.

So, irregardless of any claims about "JIGS" or "FOUR JAW CHUCKS",
I personally will continue removing the barrels from the receivers for my M14 chop jobs. This extra bit of work removing and replacing the barrels seems to me to result in a much more consistent quality muzzle job.

Of course,
YPMMV,
LAZ 1
[;{()
 
I have cut and crowned a number of barrels, USGI and Chinese. Always did them with the barrel off. Threaded with the muzzle on the live centre. Crowned using a very sharp tool, cutting from the bore out. I use a 90* step crown.
I suppose that the tail of the receiver could be held in a four jaw, (with shims it shouldn't get marked), the muzzle supported on the live centre, and the breech of the barrel then indicated in. That SHOULD keep things lined up. A steady would be used for crowning.
If the barrel is passed through the spindle with the receiver in place, that is a lot of off-centre weight hanging out the left side of the lathe; a spider would be needed to keep the barrel centred, and low rpm would reduce vibration.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom