m14 barrel removal

Farlsincharge

Farlsincharge

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Well I used the search and watched the videos and still can't come up with the answer, so now I ask. I went to remove the barrel on my m14 tonight to re-index it and I can't budge it. I removed the set screw, clamped it in the vise and put my weight to the wrench. It doesn't move and I don't want to put any more torque on it until I am sure. There are two grooves in the side of the barrel that continue on into the reciever. When they meet the reciever, the reciever has two t*ts that fill these grooves. Is this normal? are the t*ts not very deep and they just twist off? do I somehow have to remove them first? is it just the recent shipment that has this or am I just being paranoid and need to lean on er a little harder?
 
I am not following the t*ts thing......... anyway you can post pics?? Geebus... if they spot welded the barrel on..... that would be the first i've heard of that.... but who knows... no way to know without pics.
I have met a couple barrels that required excess of 90 foot pounds to break loose :eek: Just make sure your fixtures, vice/wrench are good and tight

EDIT ** as an afterthought... if you think these might be welds.... that's one rifle i would put back in the box and mark "return to sender" and ask for one that's not welded hehehe .... but seriously
 
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I would say I had all of 120 ftlbs on her I'll edit and add pics in about 10 minutes

Edit-Sorry to bother you guys, I got looking closer when I was taking pics and the grooves don't extend into the reciever they just appear to. I guess I will hit it with some penetrating oil and try again tomorrow.
 
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When I swapped out my barrel I found that a smack on the wrench with a mini sledge was necessary to get it to move. It wouldn't move with weight or torque no matter what I did but the shock of the sledge got it going.
 
Here is what the ass end of the barrel should look like...

IMG_0376.jpg
 
before you break out hammers and the like....try using the power of physics....

Take a 2 x 4 or strong metal rod and attach it to your wrench. I found what was near impossible to move using the wrench, moved easily with 5 feet of 2 x 4. I used a simple cargo strap to mate the two.....worked like magic...

Cheers

Jeff
 
Nothing wrong with using a bigger pipe to help get the torque. Give it a sharp tug to start and maybe that will be enough shock to get it rolling. I put a little block of metal wedged between one of the barrel grooves and the vise to stop the barrel from turning in the vise. That way you don't have to bend the vise handle to clamp it down overtly tight.
 
Ripstop said:
I put a little block of metal wedged between one of the barrel grooves and the vise to stop the barrel from turning in the vise. That way you don't have to bend the vise handle to clamp it down overtly tight.
Click to expand...

damn.... that's a good idea :dancingbanana: ........ i'm gonna try that ;)
 
Ripstop said:
Nothing wrong with using a bigger pipe to help get the torque. Give it a sharp tug to start and maybe that will be enough shock to get it rolling. I put a little block of metal wedged between one of the barrel grooves and the vise to stop the barrel from turning in the vise. That way you don't have to bend the vise handle to clamp it down overtly tight.
Click to expand...

Wedge? Barrel grooves? Bend the vise handle?

Use a proper barrel vise and a proper receiver wrench. Don't mess around trying to grab either the barrel or receiver in a machinist's vise. Tightening a machinst's vise on a receiver could be a really good way to ruin it, and even with insert blocks, a machinist's vice is inferior to a proper barrel vice.

Generally speaking, a sharp crack can break a barrel loose, if it is resisting a steady application of force on the wrench, even with a cheater. Having said that, I've used a 4' cheater to turn a barrel in to index, and prefer not to give the wrench a crack unless absolutely necessary.

Because of the force that may be required, don't be messing about with improvised tools. There is too great a chance of ruining the receiver or marking up the barrel.
 
I'm here. Keep us posted. This does not sound right.

1bigrn and roberti11 can attest (they have done this job with me), removing a Norinco M14 barrel should not be that hard. hmmmm? :rolleyes:

Also listen to tiriaq's suggestion, as well. :D

If you are really pissed, you can always mail it to me.... :evil:
 
m39a2 said:
Not to make either of us sound stupid but....which way are you trying to turn the reciever?

Scott
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That is a very good question....
You are wanting to index the barrel - are you trying to just turn the barrel to index, or are you wanting to break it loose, and then turn to index?
I've corrected index both ways. Sometimes it is easier to break the barrel loose, and then index it. Sometimes the barrel can just be tweaked a bit to achieve index.
How are you gauging indexing? Hungry's long parallels method? Machinist's level method?
 
I want to break it loose as it is overindexed a few degrees. Hopefully it will be okay just reindexing and I dont have to deal with the shoulder. I am actually going to use both methods just for fun
 
Well it is off. I had to go borrow my buddies machine shop bench though. I think my vise was flexing too much and his is bolted to 1'' plate so...... Once I got it off though I saw that it was rusted on. I got it all cleaned up and anti-siezed, just heading off to the shop to index it now.
 
Indexing methods with a parallel(s) flat(s) can be found in my (now downloadable) videos. Or do you have a copy of my 2004 Abbotsford Video on hand? This ain't rocket science. Re-indexing an installed barrel is only a 5 minute job. ;)
 
Got er done. Used both methods just to be sure. So far not very impressed with this thing as far as fit and finish, especially finish. That coating they have on the metal sure ain't much of anything. I used your advice Hungry and didn't buy any of the "tools". I wrapped the vise and the barrel with electrical tape as well as the reciever. I marked the barrel slightly but nothing to worry about. Headspace is the next step and with my luck it will be way out, but we shall see I guess.
 
tiriaq said:
Wedge? Barrel grooves? Bend the vise handle?

Use a proper barrel vise and a proper receiver wrench. Don't mess around trying to grab either the barrel or receiver in a machinist's vise. Tightening a machinst's vise on a receiver could be a really good way to ruin it, and even with insert blocks, a machinist's vice is inferior to a proper barrel vice.

Generally speaking, a sharp crack can break a barrel loose, if it is resisting a steady application of force on the wrench, even with a cheater. Having said that, I've used a 4' cheater to turn a barrel in to index, and prefer not to give the wrench a crack unless absolutely necessary.

Because of the force that may be required, don't be messing about with improvised tools. There is too great a chance of ruining the receiver or marking up the barrel.
Click to expand...

Huh? What? Who said anything about clamping a receiver in a vice?
stop the barrel from turning in the vise
Click to expand...

Even with using insets around the barrel, some of those stubborn barrels will still want to turn in the inserts. I don't change barrels often enough to buy a proper barrel vise. Using the insets in an ordinary machinist vise, you can still wedge a small metal block between one of the barrel grooves and the vise jaw. NOTHING wrong with that. It stops the barrel from wanting to start turning in the inserts.

The first time I tried this was up at one of Hungry's clinics and we were turning the barrel in the inserts even after using the pipe on the vise handle to tighten it down. We were trying to get the barrel off.

Obviously you have gotten the completely wrong idea about my post.
 
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