m14 break in period?
- Thread starter hdffej
- Start date
Sure thing... keep these parts greased:
Bolt lugs x 2
Bolt raceways
op rod track (right side/ starboard)
bolt roller and bolt roller hump found on op rod (next to the op rod handle)
op rod guide (figure 8 thingy on barrel , where op rod fornicates back and forth)
Hammer hooks (pull out your trigger group, play with stage 1 and stage 2, grease it there)
Shoot the fzck out of it... the barrel is chrome lined!
Cheers,
Barney
Bolt lugs x 2
Bolt raceways
op rod track (right side/ starboard)
bolt roller and bolt roller hump found on op rod (next to the op rod handle)
op rod guide (figure 8 thingy on barrel , where op rod fornicates back and forth)
Hammer hooks (pull out your trigger group, play with stage 1 and stage 2, grease it there)
Shoot the fzck out of it... the barrel is chrome lined!
Cheers,
Barney
maple_leaf_eh
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
There are conflicting schools of thought about how much and how often to clean a new barrel to break it in. Google it and you'll see what I mean.
For my own peace of mind, shoot 5 and clean the bore until the patches come out clean. Repeat. Then shoot 10 and clean. Repeat. Then 20 and clean. Repeat. That makes 60 shots (or 3 boxes of off-the-shelf expendable ammo). After that amount of shooting, the rougher spots on the Parkerizing will have been worn down, and the grease will find itself in all the right places.
To clean use either a Boresnake, starting at the breech to pull any contaminates out the front end. With a rod from the muzzle, drill the primer out of a 12ga shotgun shell and use it as a rod guide. For chemicals, they all work and they all have their advantages. My perferences are Hoppes No.9 as a powder and copper solvent and JB Paste as a scratchy abrasive for the physical fouling that gets missed.
But, don't judge the accuracy of the rifle or even try to shoot tight groups until there are several dozen rounds downrange. This is a machine that was assembled at the factory, but final Quality Control was a low priority.
For my own peace of mind, shoot 5 and clean the bore until the patches come out clean. Repeat. Then shoot 10 and clean. Repeat. Then 20 and clean. Repeat. That makes 60 shots (or 3 boxes of off-the-shelf expendable ammo). After that amount of shooting, the rougher spots on the Parkerizing will have been worn down, and the grease will find itself in all the right places.
To clean use either a Boresnake, starting at the breech to pull any contaminates out the front end. With a rod from the muzzle, drill the primer out of a 12ga shotgun shell and use it as a rod guide. For chemicals, they all work and they all have their advantages. My perferences are Hoppes No.9 as a powder and copper solvent and JB Paste as a scratchy abrasive for the physical fouling that gets missed.
But, don't judge the accuracy of the rifle or even try to shoot tight groups until there are several dozen rounds downrange. This is a machine that was assembled at the factory, but final Quality Control was a low priority.
Sure thing... keep these parts greased:
Bolt lugs x 2
Bolt raceways
op rod track (right side/ starboard)
bolt roller and bolt roller hump found on op rod (next to the op rod handle)
op rod guide (figure 8 thingy on barrel , where op rod fornicates back and forth)
Hammer hooks (pull out your trigger group, play with stage 1 and stage 2, grease it there)
Shoot the fzck out of it... the barrel is chrome lined!
Cheers,
Barney
Wow thanks for the fast answers hungry and maple, I love this site. Now would that be white grease like I read someone was using?
Just about any grease. Wheel bearing grease like the stuff that comes in a tube for your grease gun to the squeeze bottle stuff. Just use plenty on the areas mentioned. White, black, brown grease....M14s aren't racist, they love them all.
I also just bought a norinco m14 , unfortunately not enough for an m25 yet still having problems with the settlement for my left testicle and kidney.
When i got mine home i used hoppes #9 just like the above mentioned to clean the barrel , used the shotgun shell technique which worked very well . However pay close attention to how far you go because youll get oil / solvent into your chamber which can / for me anyway was a pain to get clean , as its suppose to be dry
I fired about 60 - 70 rounds , brought it home cleaned it again checked for abnormal wear , reassembled then put another 100 rounds down range after applying Lith-ease grease to the aforementioned areas .
The Lith-ease i simply had lying around in the garage from doing my own automotive work , i usually have 3-5 tubes of the stuff just hanging around .
It doesnt seem to be affected by the heat either , theres some slight browning going on but its staying where i put it which is good .
Most of all have fun , its my first rifle and im having an absolute blast when i go to the range . It was a fan the first day i took it out which was also cool lol .
When i got mine home i used hoppes #9 just like the above mentioned to clean the barrel , used the shotgun shell technique which worked very well . However pay close attention to how far you go because youll get oil / solvent into your chamber which can / for me anyway was a pain to get clean , as its suppose to be dry
I fired about 60 - 70 rounds , brought it home cleaned it again checked for abnormal wear , reassembled then put another 100 rounds down range after applying Lith-ease grease to the aforementioned areas .
The Lith-ease i simply had lying around in the garage from doing my own automotive work , i usually have 3-5 tubes of the stuff just hanging around .
It doesnt seem to be affected by the heat either , theres some slight browning going on but its staying where i put it which is good .
Most of all have fun , its my first rifle and im having an absolute blast when i go to the range . It was a fan the first day i took it out which was also cool lol .
