M14 Cheek Riser

JDForBrkFst

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I had a look through the search and the stickies but I couldn't find out any info on DIY installation of an adjustable m14 cheek piece. Is it feasible to do it yourself or taking the the smith is the best bet? Any help appreciated.

Matt
 
Are you talking about the plastic one's that are secured by bolts through the stock, like Karstens or Desert Warrior's? The Dessert Warrior cheekrest comes with a template to shot you where to drill to install it, and its not hard to do.
 
Use a drill press and make sure the holes are drilled perfectly across the stock. Hopefully it comes with instructions and a paper template for marking the stock prior to drilling. If you are not comfortable with drilling it yourself, you could take it to a gunsmith. Esp if its a nice piece of wood. USGI FG stocks can be easily repainted, so I'm a little more cavalier about drilling and filling. I recently ground out a portion of the inside of the foreend and epoxied in a threaded plate so I can install a sling swivel stud or other bolt on accessories and have something sturdy to screw it into.
 
Theres no template or instructions unfortunately. It'll be going on a fiberglass stock. I guess I'll have to send it to Alberta Tac Rifle, I've heard pretty much all the other smiths in Alberta are varying degree's of junk. To bad I was hoping to do it this weekend.
 
You need to position the new holes such that they don't interfere with the holes in the butt of the stock that stow away the cleaning kit. You need them straight through, not angled, and low enough that you can lower the cheek piece so you can see through the irons, or high enough for your scope. Do you have a fax machine? I'll fax you Desert Warrior's instructions. He says the cheek rest should be 3/4" forward of the notch in the top of the butt of the stock.
 
dude, why pay their fees? I mean alberta tactical is great, Ive dealt with them but that's a 5min job...
you seem like to kind of guy that'll call an electrician to change a light bulb!

put the riser on at its lowest point, put drill marks at highest possible point in the slit
drill through with drill press ( i used a handpress so my bolts arent at exactly 90 degrees, no one ever realized...)

here you can check for proper depth to install (note: when I say 90degrees angle its the bolts, not the riser itself, as you can see on this picture, I tilt mine forward so the riser also acts like a head holder, i lay back onto it)



EDIT: thanks grizzlypeg for bringing exact measure up, 3/4'' is also how far mine is installed from top notch
 
Thanks for the info, templates and drill presses made me figure a perfect hole was crucial. I don't have a drill press so I guess I'll have to ask around. BTW I don't call an electrician to change my light bulbs, I've done lots of minor gunsmith work on my firearms, do work on my vehicle, etc.
 
"...going on a fiberglass stock..." A solid stock or foam filled?
"...don't have a drill press..." Got a square? Even on the rounded surface of a stock drilling a straight hole with a hand drill is possible if you use a square to keep the drill, well, square. You'll want to have something underneath to keep the stock steady.
Have a look at this one. Comes with installation instructions. The strap on types would do if they get your head up far enough.
http://www.desertwarriorproducts.com/M1A-M14CheekRest.html
 
Appologies for disapearing, went out to do a corn maze....that was confusing. Anyways.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=42322&cat=1,180,42311

I do have a square but I ended up buying one of these while I was out this afternoon so we'll see how it works. I've got a plan to build a make shift brace for the stock on my work bench with old bits of wood I have kickin around.

I'm not sure what you mean "solid stock or fiber glass filled."

GrizzleyPeg, I'll pm you my number to send the fax too.

Thanks lots
Matt
 
I just drilled both my Rem. 700 as well as my usgi stocks out with a drill. Check THRICE, make sure you're @90 degrees w/ the stock and you're good to go. Took around five minutes.
 
JD, that Lee Valley press should work if you adjust the angle to the angle of the butt where you are drilling and the receiver area is clamped to a horizontal surface...

I'd be tempted to hand drill it though and start with a smaller sized bit drilling half way from both sides and then connecting the two holes with a small "jobber" bit for extra length.
Once you've got the small hole through you can go to the final size and adjust the angle a bit if you need to...
Good luck.
 
Success!! I used the Lee Valley press and built a make shift brace on my workbench with old bits of 2x4 drilled in around the stock, put a level on the stock where the front of the reciever sits as its flat there. Drilled pilot holes then the main holes, only one small mistake, the top compartment in the butt stock won't fit the chamber brush any more, I can only put the gas plug wrench in it now. I'm not terribly heart broken about that.

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3552205&postcount=681

pic of the finished rifle.
 
Looks good. I see you've done some other mods, barrel chop and flash suppressor, gas lock front sight. You've covered all bases. Let us know how it shoots with the scope.
 
Thanks, most of the other mods were done by the previous owner. Now I'm looking at bedding it and getting the gas system unitized. Might have to start a thread to find out if anyone in Edmonton does unitizing.

She shoots good, I've mostly fired my hand loads out of it. I've noticed that my match 155 grain Sierra Kings, with IMR 4895 powder shoots 1 MOA avg better than American Eagle factory 150 grain. The best group I've had out of it so far is about 1.5 MOA, but most are larger 2-3ish.

I've taken it out to 300 meters at Wildwood but am probably going to get a membership to Genesse this week and take her out to 700 and see what happens.
 
The best groups I get, based on shooting enough boxes and groups to know its a fair and honest group, is 1.5" at 100 yards with Federal 150 soft point ammo. I've used some of their premium ammo, and it appeared to shoot better, but its too expensive for enough testing to say its truly better.

How much IMR 4895 are you using with the 155 grain Sierra? I'm going to have to try some one of these days in my M14. I reload, but so far only for my bolt guns and AR-15.
 
That's the thing, I haven't shot it enough to judge what an average group for a good shoot is with the rifle.

I've been using 42 grains of the IMR 4895, I'm using the Lyman's manual as a reference guide for reloading. I've only been doing it a couple months and only for the m14.

I've just got some of the Sierra match Kings in Palma Match so I'm going to hand load a bunch of them tomorrow and shoot them later this week.

Do you save much money hand loading for the AR? I've been thinking about starting that.
 
My AR is a heavy barrelled, fast twist rate. It needs heavier bullets. I can buy inexpensive 55 grain ammo for around $11-$12 a box, but it has very mixed results. It might shoot 3 in a row into 3/4" and then throw one 2" off that group. With $38 a box 69 gr match ammo, they will all shoot into 3/4", but that price is obscene. With reloads and decent bullets, I can load them for a little less than the cheap ammo using quality bullets, and shoot 10 shots into an inch without a single flyer. So do I save money, yes and no. Only really when I compare to decent ammo.

I have some 150 gr hornady 308 bullets already loaded with 42 or 43 grains of IMR 4895 that I use in my bolt action rifle. I use it for hunting, and it shoots superbly. Last time I tested it at the range, I fired one shot, walked to the target and covered the hole with tape. Fired another shot and didn't understand what I saw. Walked to the target and observed a hole in the tape, right through the first hole. Its nowhere but downhill from there. Some luck involved, but at the same time, my Tikka bolt action rifle is giving me consistently good results with a a wide range of powder charges.
 
Grizzleypeg, I like the sounds of your Tikka.

I don't save all that much money hand loading because I handload match round. What I've started doing now though is using the new brass for the good match rounds, then using most of the once fired for a cheaper plinking round. I found I had to start doing that as I've been taking people shooting trying to get them into the sport and most of them always love the m14 so I end up coming home and realizing they shot 100 match rounds that day and I get real sad inside.

ipscgraz, I'm glad you agree. I as well love that powder load with 150-155 grain rounds.
 
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