M14 failure at first shot...

"...didn't have enough energy to strip it..." That is a short stroke. The energy is there, but the bolt doesn't go back far enough. Hence, the term.
 
Ok.. Here is my report...

First I have reinstall the recoil buffer to test one by one all possible causes.

For the recharging problem's, it apear it was the gaz lock. I shot 50 rounds during my test and I don't get any recharging failure... But!!!... I got an other problem's

Every four or five rounds a shell get catch by the bolt... Resulting jamming.

At first, I have think it was the Scoup Mount. I have remove it, but the problem's have persist. Finally I have remove the recoil buffer and everyting goes well after that...

Since that, I have fire more than 30 rounds without any failure...

I don't know why the Recoil Buffer cause that!?!? Maybe it's a mix of two problems.

I think I will shim the gaz lock. When I have tighten it, I was able to turn it one quarter further. Maybe I still loosing pressure from there...
 
spirit said:
Since that, I have fire more than 30 rounds without any failure...

I don't know why the Recoil Buffer cause that!?!? Maybe it's a mix of two problems.

I think I will shim the gaz lock. When I have tighten it, I was able to turn it one quarter further. Maybe I still loosing pressure from there...
Click to expand...

If taking out the recoil buffer fixed the problem, then you don't have two problems, you fixed the one problem. :)

1/4 turn on the gas lock won't cause you to lose significant pressure. What it will do is slightly affect your accuracy as things can then move around. The recoil buffer was probably keeping the op rod from fully opening the way it was designed. You can shim the gas system (1/4 turn is 0.0125" of shim btw) but I would throw away the recoil buffer.

Have fun shooting.
 
Thank You all! It's cool to get help rapidly like that!

It's a really good community here!

One more question : When I have remove my Sadlak (Aluminium 12) scoop mount, I have see scratchs on the exterior edge. I have seen a video where a guy remove material from the edge to help the shell to extract.


Dis you think I sould remove some material?

Thank You again!
 
why does the recoil buffer make so much difference ?BECAUSE IT'S NOT SUPPOSED TO BE THERE IN THE FIRST PLACE- why people insist on installing UNNECCESARY PARTS to "cushion" whatever is BEYOND ME - the gun is designed to give a LIFETIME of shooting AS IT COMES FROM THE FACTORY , AND PROBABLY FAR BEYOND THAT- i don't know who's selling these things, and who's shipping the bull that you NEED one, but i wish they would stop- i don't KNOW how many people have come lately with a short stroking or a misfeed issue and it's been a RECOIL BUFFER that's been mentioned- nobody i know uses one, and there's been numerous posts by the doctor et al to FIRE THE THING IN THE GARBAGE-
 
No need to mod the mount ,the best thing to do is a new shorter punger/spring,extractor .Or the one you have can be shortend 2 coils i think .I have never done it myself so seek trimming info from the doc or someone on the board who knows for shure !!
 
Chris S said:
No need to mod the mount ,the best thing to do is a new shorter punger/spring,extractor .Or the one you have can be shortend 2 coils i think .I have never done it myself so seek trimming info from the doc or someone on the board who knows for shure !!
Click to expand...

To do so requires disassembling the bolt group, which is a MAJOR pain to reassemble afterward, unless you have a "bolt assembly tool". I watched as this modification was done several times at the last Clinic, the removal and shortening/trimming of the extractor spring. Your best bet, other than buying the tool for $50, is to attend a clinic.
 
RickR1100 said:
To do so requires disassembling the bolt group, which is a MAJOR pain to reassemble afterward, unless you have a "bolt assembly tool". I watched as this modification was done several times at the last Clinic, the removal and shortening/trimming of the extractor spring. Your best bet, other than buying the tool for $50, is to attend a clinic.
Click to expand...

you CAN disassemble the bolt with the combo tool , or do like the rest of us and use an 06 casing- the bolt disassembly tool just makes things easier- it's in the manual as well- note the CHINESE bolt is MUCH more difficult to disassemble than the "north american"
 
It's seem a complex operation. Before doing it I will test further my M14 to see if the Scoop Mount cause any problems... lol
 
If shells are hitting your scope mount, IMHO, the easiest thing to do to solve that is to replace the bolt's internal springs with M1A springs from Brownells. Alternately, if you're handy, you can shorten the Shinese springs. Ejector by 3 coils, extractor by 2 coils should do it.
 
Gothmog sells these and they are well worth the money in my view;
[youtube]2bcQsPhgT08[/youtube]
[youtube]PxV0RbUO4SM[/youtube]
 
No, you do not need a special tool. A special tool makes disassembly easier, but it's a luxury item - not a "need".

For starters, the combo tool in the buttstock can be used as a bolt disassembly tool. Google M1 or M14 bolt disassembly and a zillion youtube videos will pop up showing how to do it.

Me, I prefer crushing a .30-06 or .308 shell in a vise and using the protruding shell head to force the ejector down, then push the extractor out with a punch.

Your mileage may vary.
 
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