M14 FAQ - Tips,Help, & Info.

[Skullboy]

Over the next while I will be reposting & updating the M14 FAQ that was on the old site. Pics will also be added to clarify some modifactions.

Stripping and Assembling

http://photos.imageevent.com/badger...sassembletonyben/M14_Complete_Disassembly.pdf

USGI Fiberglass Stock Modifactions.

For all you new M304/M14 owners who are looking to swap the Chinese Mystery wood for a USGI fiberglass stock, here is how to do the following Modificaions:

1) Filling the selector cutout.
2) Building up the area for the recoil spring guide retaining pin. That's so it don't drift out on you under magazine pressure (when the mag is place.)

Filling the selector cutout.

The selector cutout will be filled in with JB Weld.it is important to make sure that the area to be filled is clean, and degreased.


Before Filling



NOTE: I now use Permatex 5 min. Cold Weld as I hated the waiting time for the regular type weld epoxy.

I first made up some cardboard shoring that had wax paper glued to one side, so that the JB Weld doesn't stick to the cardboard. Tape the "shoring" on either side of the cutout.Mix up roughly 2/3 rds of each JB Weld tube and mix thoroughly.Let the JB Weld sit for 20 to 30 minutes to set up, so that it won't leak and run all over when you fill the cutout. I filled the cutout level with the top of the stock.Smooth out the surface and let set overnight.


After Filling



I had some settling of the JB Weld, so to level off the cutout, I used some glazing putty.That is the red stuff you will see in the photos.





After the "goop" has cured, file/sand until level and contoured with the stock.

Norinco/Polytech Op Rod Spring Guide Retaining Pin Modifaction.


Now, you will want to build up a JB Weld "dam" where the retaining pin for the recoil spring guide is located.This is the area on the right side of the stock just at the front of the mag well.


Retaining Pin Area



Just as with the cutout,make sure the area is clean and degreased.

Before build Up


I have changed the way I do this modification. Instead of using the receiver to “shape” the area, I use cardboard and build a “dam” to contain the JB Weld.The cardboard is held inplace with masking tape.

I also build up the dip in that area of the stock (where the connector link should be in a real M14) to the same height as the rear part of the stock.


After Build up




Hungry Here: My picture of the popsicle stick (welfare method) of doing this modification. I even left the popsicle stick so that all of you can see it....

Built up area & non built up area





Fill the “dammed” void with the JB Weld and level it off. Clean up any spillage. Acetone is your friend.

Let cure overnight, or in the case of the 5 min. weld, at least a few hours.

Remove the cardboard and clean up the area with a file/emerycloth/Scotchbrite pad.

Fill any voids, etc with glazing putty and sand.


Five stocks after being filled



Here is a pic of the masking tape being used to make up a dam/retaining wall for the JB Weld to set up against....

Here are some pics of the selector cutout filling operation, but I used some High Density foam to take up the space and keep things light. In the past I used some pieces of balsa wood or doweling to fit into that space.

Have a look at the 'dam' made of masking tape! Real easy and cheap solution. Let this cure overnight before profiling with some sandpaper and a block of wood.

Here is the same job but from the pistol grip end of things. Don't dump too much JB Weld all at once. Sometimes I'll do this operation in stages over 3 days. Take your time, have fun, make mistakes!!

That is all there is to it.These are actually pretty easy modifications to do.After you finish, start painting!!!!

SKBY and Hungry!

 

[Craftsman 441]

Gas Cylinder Welding Tips

Gas System Unitising.


A really FAST way of tightening up yer groups. Usually costs me a couple of large regulars from Tim Horton's at my favorite welding shop here in town. The job is so small, the welders laugh when I offer them a loonie or 2 for their "tacking". Read on !!
We have to unitize this to prevent more rattling around of the barrel components. 2 methods are advocated in the US: USARMY drills and taps 2 screws (can't recall if they are # 8 or # 6) from the rear of the (annealed) front band into the rear of the STAINLESS STEEL gas cylinder, around the permanently imobilized spindle valve.

The second way is the USMC method which involves TIG (not oxy-acetylene) welding the front band to the STAINLESS STEEL gas cylinder body.

NOTE: Norinco Gas Cylinders are NOT Stainless steel but Chro-moly.

Oh yeah, clamp the 2 sum#####es together.... I emphasize that the gas cylinder is stainless material so that the experienced welders lurking in the group will get a "heads up" on the TIG. I've been advising my welder buddies to locate the relief hole "tab" and "tack" (just a little bit) on the front band. This is the vital operation.... Now the remaining tacks can be ABOVE the gas cylinder body, up in the surrounding barrel band at 1000 hrs and 1400 hrs. Can you follow me so far ?

Now take a round file and dress/clean off the alignment of the interior of the front band, hopefully the "C" clamp holding the front band and gas cylinder did not shift on you while welding.

Whoops, warning, I forgot to mention to anneal the front band (before welding) and bend up the steel "tabs" for the handguard..... fat barrel soon to be located there. I use a pair of pliers from Cambodian Tire for this one. Don't scratch the front band and if you do, file off the scars and touch up with Birchwood Casey's cold blue.

Here's how I did it for my Norinco:

WARNING! This post may contain UFI.

Assemble your rifle tightly with everything centered and as you want it once it is welded. Using a prick or center punch, make mate marks. Try to make the marks in the areas where the welds will go (10:00, 2:00 and 6:00). That way, they will be welded over and you won't have divots in your newly unitized gas system.

Disassemble the rifle. With a wire wheel, buffing wheel or sand paper, clean the areas around where the welds will go. Do a final wipe of the area with acetone on a rag. Clean, shiny metal is what you want to see. Any oxidization or oils will make your welds weak. Remember, if you pooch these parts, you might be able to buy a new set for about $399.99 plus shipping.

Mount the barrel (with or without reciever) pointing upwards in a vice. Ground the vice or bench, if it is metal. Install the barrel band and gas cylinder, lining up your mate marks. Clamp the two parts together with the gas cylinder lock.

Because the steel is a chrome-molybdenum alloy, it's a good idea to preheat (it's always a good idea to preheat) with a torch. Preheating burns-off oils in the metal, promotes penetration (a weld sitting on the surface may as well be caulk or bubblegum) and it reduces the likelihood of crystalizing the metal around the welds (which is where weldments usually fail). You don't want to melt everything together, you just want it warm. It shouldn't glow and the clean metal shouldn't change colour.

Get some filler rod. Smaller diameters are easier to control and need less heat (smaller puddles). Big filler rods need more heat to melt and leave larger deposits. That means more heat on your barrel and gas system - not good. I used a 1/16" dia. ER70S-2 rod. It is specifically for joining chro-moly steels. If you don't have any of that handy you can use stainless filler rod. If you really have to, you can chip the flux off of an E309 stainless SMAW rod and use it.

Starting at 6:00, tack the joints in all three spots. Let it cool and see that it is straight. If everything is level, make three 1/16"x3/16"lg spot welds. Work quickly and make good welds, being careful not to put too much heat into the barrel and assembly.

When all three spot welds are finished, postheat with a torch, so that there is even heat in the assembly. This prevents warping from uneven cooling. Take some old welding mitts, aprons or any other rawhide and wrap the assembly around the weldment, this keeps it from cooling too quickly and warping and forming micro-cracks. Leave the barrel pointing upward as close to vertical as possible. Remember, the barrel took some heat and needs to cool too. By being vertical, the cooling will be even along the longitudinal axis of the barrel.

 

[Skullboy]

Gas Cylinder Shimming.

If you gas cylinder is loose or has any play on the barrel, this will be detrimental to accuracy & consistency.

Your gas cylinder needs to be shimmed in order for it to tighten up and align properly and not have any play.My M14 developed a loose gas cylinder and had to be shimmed.

The barrel and gas cylinder both have a matching port that allows the spent gases from the cartridge to reach the gas piston and cycle the action.If these ports do not line up, gas does not reach the gas piston, and therefore the action does not cycle.Then you must cycle the action by hand.

The gas cylinder lock should start to tighten up at the 3 or 4 o'clock position, and be tight at the 6 o'clock position.If the gas lock tightens up past the 6 o'clock position, then the gas cylinder needs to be shimmed.

Now if your gas lock tightens up past the 6 o'clock position, in order to re install the gas nut you must back off the gas lock to be able to screw in the gas nut.This pulls the gas cylinder forward from the shoulder on the barrel inwhich the gas system butts up against and causes there to be play in the gas system.This isn't good for accuracy.

In order to shim the gas cylinder, you need to remove the flash suppressor and gas cylinder assembly.You should use a pair of Castle nut pliers to undo the castle nut(this nut holds the flash supressor on the barrel and is held tight by a small allen set screw).Depending on when your rifle was made, the flash supressor may be silver soldered to the barrel with two solder spots on the underside of the flash suppressor.

Flash suppressor removal video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xf0M9uAjks


Flash Suppressor removed:


Note the two weld spots on the barrel and flash suppressor.

Removed parts laid out for reference:




I have found the easiest way to remove a soldered/welded flash suppressor is to drill out the weld spots enough to weaken them (be careful not to drill into the barrel!!!!!).If you have a drill press the job is made much easier, But a regular drill will work.



You can then tap off the flash supressor with a brass drift punch, or a good chunk of wood.This will break the solder.But be VERY CARFUL when doing this as you do not want to mark the finish on the barrel or supressor.

These solder spots can be smoothed out with a small fine file and Emery cloth.

Here is the NavyShooter method (alternate strategy, but it works also). No drilling required.

Basically, here's the "NavyShooter Approved" process.

1. Loosen/remove castle nut locking grub-screw.
2. Loosen castle nut.
3. With a screwdriver or other pointed implement (chisel,etc) place it in the place noted in John's picture (above the weld, against the barrel, in the seam between the barrel and flash suppressor) and give it 2-3 sharp "whacks" with a hammer. *THIS STRESSES THE WELD JOIN*
4. Repeat above the 2nd weld.
5. Get a big brass punch, place on the former bayonet lug support, and give it 3-4 good whacks with a hammer. This will break the welds, and allow the flash suppressor to start moving.
6. Spin off the castle nut as the flash suppressor is slowly tapped down and off.
7. Grind welds (inside of FS) smooth.
8. Re-attach.

While you have the gas system apart and off of the barrel, this is when you want to think about unitising the front band and gas cylinder.This is one of the National Match modifications.Basically the front band is tack welded(TIG Welded)to the gas cylinder with 3 small tack welds at the 10, 2, & 6 o'clock position.

NOTE : Welders, the USGI gas cylinder is Stainless Steel. the Norinco Gas cylinder is Chromoly Steel.

You can buy gas cylinder shim kits with different thicknesses of shims, but I cut out my own shims from some brass shim stock we have at work.The shims are basically thin washers of varying thicknesses. Shim kits can be purchase from www.marstar.ca for about $ 10ish.

Fulton Armory has a nice set of stainless steel shims for the M14 gas cylinder, but they DO NOT ship ANYTHING to Canada. Zip. Nada. Zilch.

The shims go between the front band(this is what you are calling the collar) and the barrel shoulder. This is for alignment for the gas port only. The gas port must be aligned properly for proper functioning of the gas system.After installing the gas assembly and front band, tighten the gas cylinder lock on the gas cylinder. The lock will probably stop past the 6 o'clock position. After tightening the lock, back it off to 3 o'clock, check with feeler gauges to see what shim thickness is needed when you snug it back up with the feeler gauge still inserted to the 4 o'clock position.Don't back up the cylinder lock more than a whole turn as it will throw off the alignment with the gas port. The lock should be snug at 4 o'clock so when turned to 6 o'clock, it securely clamps the loose front band.

The above basically comes from the Scott Duff M14 Owners guide(page 144).This is a GOOD book for tuning and trouble shooting your M14/M1A.

Ifyou look at your pic of the gas system you have the following parts:
1) Gas Nut
2) Gas Lock (looks like a figure eight)
3) Gas Cylinder (the screw on the side is the gas cut off valve.That was used for launching rifle grenades.If you close this valve the action won't cycle as it cuts off the gas flow to the pas piston).
4) Gas Piston (inside the gas cylinder).
5) Barrel Band.(This clips onto the front of the stock.

First of all, when you unscrew the gas nut you should use a gas cylinder wrench to hold the gas cylinder from moving when you undo the gas nut.

Once the gas nut has been removed, the gas lock can be undone.This is the piece that you want tight at the 6 o'clock position(straight down).If you undo the gas nut and find the gas lock loose, or you can move the gas lock by hand past the 6 o'clock position, then you have a problem.Ideally, the gas lock should start to snug up at the 3 or 4 o'clock position, and be tight at 6 o'clock.

If you turn the rifle over, you will notice a small hole at the base of the gas cylinder.This hole/gas port goes up through the gas cylinder and into the barrel.This is how the action cycles. What happens with a loose gas cylinder, or one that has a gas lock that doesn't tighten up in the right spot, is that the gas ports can become misaligned and cause cycling problems.

If the gas lock is left loose at the 6 o'clock position, the gas cylinder is pulled forward when the gas nut is re-installed and tightened up.This will cause the gas ports to be misaligned, and create play between the barrel band and barrel shoulder.

If you remove the action from the stock and remove the handguard and look at the rear of the barrel band, you will see a shoulder on the barrel.The gas cylinder should be tight against this should with no play or movement.When you shim the gas cylinder, the shims go between the barrel band and the barrel shoulder.

There are shim kits available with different thickness of shims. With mine, I used some shim stock from work and cut my own shims. IIRC, I had to shim about 5 thou.

To keep the gas ports aligned when shimming, you can use the shank of the appropriate size drill inserted into the gas ports from the bottom of the cylinder into the barrel to keep everything lined up.

The rest of the shimming instructions are in my first post so I won't repeat them again.

I hope I explained this right and didn't confuse you more.

NOTE: When you tighten up the gas nut, it does not need to be cranked on super tight.You want to be able to remove it for scheduled cleaning.

 

[Skullboy]

Removing the Cosmoline/Packing grease your New M305/M14.

Simple Green works good for degreasing firearms.I used the concentrated stuff and diluted it as needed, then wiped the rifles down with Isoprophyl Alcohol and a final wipe down with G96 gun oil.

A toothbrush is good for scrubbing the parts.You just need to field strip the rifle.You do not have to remove the gas system from the barrelled action to clean it.

You want to make sure you do a good job on degreasing the trigger assembly and bolt.

Lubricating the M14 Type Rifles.

The only two thing you want to lube with gun oil are the trigger assembly pivot points, and the firing pin.All other lubing should be done with a good quality grease.

You want to grease the following areas:
-Bolt roller
-bolt lugs
-The bolt tracks inside the reciever
-the underside of the bolt
-the nose of the hammer
-Operating Rod track
-Inside the Op Rod "hump"(where the bolt roller fits.HINT a small syringe filled with grease works great for lubing this area).
-Recoil spring guide rod
-Where the Op Rod slides through the op rod guide

Source for Grease Syringes:

Okay M14 , M1A and M1 Garand lovers:

I found the curved tip glue syringes that are perfect for applying GREASE to your :

Op rod raceways
Op rod guide
Bolt lugs
Bolt raceways
Hammer hooks
Hammer nose

Go to Lee Valley Tools (google it for yerself) and here is there product number:

Curved-Tip Syringe, ea.
25K07.05 in 2009, they were retailing for $ 2.60 plus taxes. I usually have them for $ 2.00 including the grease at my clinics.

Buy a few for yourself and fill them with whatever CHEAP grease works for your purposes (cold-snowmobile , high-tech- Plastilube, cheap- Ukrainian Tire Bearing Grease)

DO NOT use any lube/oil on the gas assembly!!!!This is a dry gas system.If you use any type of lube here, powder residue will cake up and plug the gas system.You can use a little bore cleaner to clean the gas system, but them make sure to thoroughly clean afterwards.The inside of the gas cylinder nut and the gas piston need to be cleaned out periodically, or carbon will build up inside them and, causing the rifle to "bark" and cycle harder if left long enough.You can use a 5/16 drill bit TURNED IN YOUR FINGERS to clean out the carbon build up from the inside of the gas piston and gas nut.DO NOT use any drills or the like to clean out the inside of the gas cylinder assembly!!!You do not want to scratch the interior walls of the gas cylinder.I would say the gas system should be cleaned every 400 to 500 rounds.

The gas nut does not have to be "cranked" on super tight.Just snug it down enough that it won't loosen up from the recoil.Check the gas nut for tightness every so often.

When cleaning the bore, clean the rifle upside down.This is a critical step if your action has been bedded.This way keeps cleaning solvents from seeping between the stock and reciever.The bore cleaner will eat away at the bedding material.

You must clean the bore from the muzzle end on these rifles.To keep the bolt from releasing, lock back the bolt and insert a steel stripper clip into the stripper clip guide so that i covers the bolt face.This will stop you from releasing the bolt inadvertently with your cleaning rod(this trick only works if you have the original stripper clip guide.Won't work if you have a 3rd generation scope mount).For a bore guide, take a spent 12 gauge shotshell, and cut of the crimped end.Then drill out the spent primer slightly larger then your cleaning rod.This will slip perfectly over the flash suppressor and protect the muzzle crown and inside of the flash suppressor form cleaning rod damage.

That should cover everything.

 

[Skullboy]

Bolt Replacement & Fitting.

This is for those who wish to swap in a USGI bolt.

NOTE: Use the proper Headspace Gauges to check headspacing throughout this procedure.

First, make sure it is a USGI bolt, and not a Springfield Inc. bolt.(A run of commercial S.A> bolts were recalled)

You might be lucky enough to not have to lap the bolt.Swap out the old bolt and install the new one without the op rod attached.Move the bolt back and forth in the reciever and see how it fits and locks up.If everything looks good, then put the rifle back together.Just to see the difference, replace the original bolt, and slide it back and forth, and see how it locks up.Odds are that the USGI bolt has a tighter fit.

Once the rifle is back together, cycle the action a few times to see if there is any binding,roughness, or sticking of the bolt.If there is, you will want to lap the lugs.When I did my bolt swap, if I let the op rod fly home, it took a good deal of effort to open the action.If this occurs, you will have to lap the bolt lugs.

To lap the bolt lugs, you will need 400 to 800 grit valve lapping compound(available at your local auto parts store).You will also need a Full length sized case and a rod (or pin punch) that will fit into the extractor hole.

NOTE: The bolt MUST be stripped in order to properly lag the lugs!!!!

Remove the op rod, op rod guide & spring. Install the stripped bolt in the reciever .Dab a little of the valve grinding compound on the rear of the lugs that bear against the receiver locking cutouts.JUST a little.Don't over do it with the compound. Now place the sized empty case in the action and slide the bolt closed. The case will keep the bolt centered with the bore when lapping the lugs. Insert the rod/punch into the extractor hole and rotate the bolt open and closed. You just lift the lugs up & down. Do this approximately 25 or so times. Stop and check frequently by cleaning off the lapping compound and working the bolt. The bolt should fully lock up without any binding or roughness. Repeat lapping as neccessary until the bolt opens and closes smoothly without any binding or sticking. You should be able to cycle the action easily.

If you reload, I would make up a few Dummy rounds and cycle them through the action via the magazine and see how it functions.If everything seems good, go shoot the sucker.

If you want, you can send either myself or Hungry 5 fired cases, and we will measure them and tell you what your headspace is.

When I swapped bolts, I went from 1.642", to 1.628". Minimum SAAMI spec for a .308Win. Chamber is 1.630". Now my chamber is at two thou crush, which is exactly what my old TRW M14 was at. Now, if you reload, you will have to readjust your sizing die accordingly. Also, no more shooting cheap surplus ammo.You will now have a nice tight match chamber!!!

After you are all done, MAKE SURE YOU CLEAN OFF ALL TRACES OF THE VALVE LAPPING COMPOUND.


I don't know exactly where you are located in Ontario, but if you are close to Hungry, I'm sure he wouldn't mind giving you a hand. It's a bit of a long drive for me.

It is actually pretty easy to fit the bolt, and it feels good knowing that you did it yourself.

SKBY.

 

[Hungry]

Wanna make your Norinco-Plinko M14 into a M25 DMR or M21 Sniper Wannabe rifle ? READ this first and then decide if you wanna drop the $$ involved.


It's New Year's Eve and my son has a few revellers in the house. They are cool and having a fun time. So I cannot sleep due to the subwoofer's pounding through the house.

Good time to discuss my ventures back in 2002 and 2003.

My first Norinco M305 set me back $ 700 from Milarm and I was glad to get hold of one since this was early 2002 and Marstar's big shipments had not landed for quite a few more months.

I shot a few handloads through the barrel and mike'd the chamber: 17 thou Typically large for the average (10 thou) Norinco M14's that would arrive a few months later. Normal size for the many, many USGI M14's that I through my hands in the mid 80's.

My brother sent me a used Douglas USGI barrel that cost him $ 100 USD. He picked it up at a gun show in Dallas. Previous owner was an NRA NM Course competitor with a "High Master" classification. I was merely a "Sharpshooter". This owner said that he shot 3000 rounds through this barrel and was beginning to drop a few X's from his normal aggregate of 490 points out of 500 points. Yeah, I would be so lucky with my 413 point average....

I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy.....

I unscrewed the Norc barrel (and relevant parts hanging on the barrel) and sold them on this board. I assembled the Douglas Chrome-Moly barrel. Smooth process to index... very slick, just as I expected. I re-assembled this rifle with ALL USGI parts that I had accumulated from my Dallas gun shows. Back then the US State Department did not list the M14 relevant parts as Verboten since the USA had not initiated OIF, yet.

I used a Rooster33 stainless op rod spring guide, a TRW made USGI bolt, WELDED gas cylinder assembly that cost me a Tim's double-double to have welded. Jamie (on the CGNutz board) reamed out my USGI flash suppressor at an April 2002 clinic here in Collingwood. I had installed a USGI fiberglass handguard that sat 3/16" from the top edges of the forestock, so no filing or relieving was necessary. Yes, the front band handguard retaining tabs were bent upwards to accomodate (I had to anneal it first) the fat shoulders of the Douglas barrel.

I test fired the rifle as it sat glassed into a reinforced USGI glass stock (buildup with many , many layers of glass, as fat as a McMillan fat bastard NM stock). The brass mic'ed to 1.630". Perfectly dead fzcken nuts on at the SAAMI spec of 1.630". A match chamber- RFO (Right On) Life gets better. I had mounted my Leupold LR/T Mark4 M1 6.5 x 20 x 50 mildot reticle scope using an ARMS # 18 mount and Millett Angle - Loc 30mm rings. I know I'm gonna get flamed for swearing BY these rings when many CGNutters will swear AT them, but they work for me and my budget. Not to mention many DCRA medals won at NSCC/CFSAC, and some 50-XV's shot with these cheaper Millett rings. I shot a wack of 5 round groups. Several were 3/4" and touching, many were 1" and touching, 2 of them were 0.5" , but we all know I could have gotten lucky.

Conclusion: shoots into 3/4"... good enough for the girls we go out with. More accurate than I could ever hold it.

Then I showed up at a Precision Rifle match the following weekend at CFB Boredom's Mons Range. I was shooting 155 gr. Sierra Match Kings, Moly-Coated coming out of my barrel at 2800 fps. This is what I observed...

At 300, 400 , 500, 600 yards, my comeups were the EXACT same as my settings on my 26" factory bbl'ed Remington VS .308 sniper rig. Nothing had changed. Life is ducky !! I was impressed with my rifle. This is great. Maybe I should shoot this for the remainder of the season. Wowsers...

Then we moved further back to 800 yard mound. Things changed QUICKLY. Remember that I am shooting the same load/bullet/powder/ammo that my Remington sniper rifle shoots. So now I have to add another 6 MOA to my familiar 800 yard setting, as recorded in my notebook. You do take notes on your scope settings don't you ? I just held ONE mildot higher or so.

Discoveries from this project:

* Up to 600 yards, this would be a great sniper rig, same comeups, tight groups... yeeeeha
* After 600 yards, ballistically you are at a disadvantage with trajectory, time in flight and of course wind deflection
* You want small groups ? Save your money and buy a Tikka, Savage, Rem M700, Win M70 Stealth, SAKO, Weatherby Threat rifle, yada yada yada
* You really gotta love the M14 platform to shoot long range, otherwise you are wasting your time, money, bullets, weekend, etc.
* Shooting Long Range ? Less money gets you a 7mm Rem Mag or 300 Win Mag Winchester Laredo or Remington Sendero right outta the box, even a custom 6.5 x 284 is cheaper using a Rem M700 action.



So there ya go. If you really and truly wanna drop a pile and I mean a BFP (big pile) of money to build up an M25 DMR wannabe, it can be done, but you might be better off spending less $$ and buying above mentioned tactical rifle(s). Plug for Mysticplayer here.... better yet, give him your money and he can build you a 1000 yard tackdriver!!

In closing: Just like I say in my clinics, SAVE YER Money !

 

[misanthropist]

Copied from original thread - Nats

If you have to have a Navy sight I can't help you. Nobody has them at the moment and the US ones won't fit your barrel. But as luck would have it there is a much, much cheaper (and in many ways better) solution.

The main downside to the Navy sight, assuming you like the sight picture, is that any time you pull the gas plug you might be affecting your sight alignment. This is not intolerable but it does get annoying and if your gun is a SHTF gun, that is not the best system. You will have to clean your gas system occasionally, and any time you do, you will affect yuour rifle's zero. Not bad for a paper puncher...not good otherwise.

There is also the minor annoyance of the shortened sight radius. It's a little less accurate to shoot with the front sight set further back like that. I never noticed this being a big problem, but it's there. What is really needed is a front sight out at the end of the barrel. Why not use the one you already have?

First of all, don't buy a flash hider. (Savings so far...40-50 bucks.)

Next, dont buy a Navy sight. (Savings total...maybe another 75-80 bucks even if you can find one. So we are in the $120 savings range now.)

So you chopped your barrel and got the usual 1/2" by 28tpi end on it...

Now whack that barrel stub out of your stock Norinco flash hider, and take it to a machine shop. Here is what you will ask for:

1. The splines must be bored out so the inside of the hider is smooth.

See right at the back there? No three splines sticking in anymore. Smoooooth.

2. The section immediately past where the barrel stops has to be bored out to 1/2"x28 threads per inch, just like the inside of AR flash hiders. See the threads?

3. You also need a 1/2" crush washer. In this pic you can see the section that you bore and thread, and that's a crush washer next to the flash hider. The gun smith I go to supplied me with mine.

4. On the bottom of the FH, have them put in a little set screw. This is just to lock the thing in place. I don't know if it's necessary or not, but my setup works. I have around 150 rounds through it. It was hard to get off for these pictures so it's not shaking loose.

I don't want to tell you how little this cost me in case the machinist was doing me a favour! But rest assured that this is not much work. It might cost you about what a flash hider would have cost. It might be less.

You now have an extremely simple, effective front sight and flash hider, and it cost you something like forty bucks! Installation is simple:

1. Screw it on.

2. If it doesn't line up perfectly straight up and down, rub the compression washer on a sharpening stone for a few seconds and try again. It doesn't take much grinding to change the front sight indexing.

That's it! I prefer this to the Navy sight, personally. It's cheaper, and faster, and you already have the parts, and it requires no maintainence.

The flash hider that's going on my folder is getting cut down to half length and since it's effectively crenellated, I'm going to sharpen up those points a little. Why? Because I want to be able to stab right through a zombie skull if necessary, and because I want every last bit of length cut off that I can.

This setup is about as long as a vortex, too, as the shoulder of the FH sits about an inch back on the barrel. My crenellated stabbing version will be shorter than a vortex.

And, of course, this frees you from having to buy a navy sight.

Enjoy!

 

[Hungry]

M14 Trigger Group Dis-Assembly and Re-Assembly

I am amazed that this post was Canadian sourced! No joking! Way cool. Most kind courtesy of our very own CGNutter: Brentn, what a great guy for doing this. Major thanks!! Big props to Brentn!!

For those of you adventurous enough to take your trigger groups apart, have a look at this YouTube video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lTKfwdmMvVQ&feature=channel_page

This is a good time to try and pull it apart, just do it over a white cloth/towel/tshirt so you can ID the parts and clean up the excess grease/oil on the parts. Then re-oil as you re-assemble!

Have fun!

Barney

 

[Hungry]

M14 Rifle Striping and Assembly

Here's another useful video to enhance your M14 addiction. Very simple information, but not as funny as the stale jokes in my clinics. Still great information. Kindly made and provided by our very own CGNutter Brentn. Without his great karma, we would not have this clip!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYqeyISsezo

My only criticism is the bolt removal from the bolt raceway, he does not mention that when you pull upward on the bolt, don't forget that quarter turn to the portside (left) of the receiver. Go and get your M14. Give this a try right now. That quarter turn allows your firing pin tang (at the rear of the bolt) to clear the receiver bridge. Have a look into your receiver and you will see how this all interfaces. Discover, learn, and make mistakes. Just like Ms. Frizzle on the "Magic Schoolbus" Show.

Peace be to journey!

 

[Hungry]

Adding an M1 Garand buttplate to your M14 Glass Stock

Wanna have some fun with a USGI glass stock and an M1 Garand butt plate? You see being the old fart that I am, I like the lighter M1 Garand buttplate for my hunting M14 and I don't like carting around all that steel.

I like using JB Weld and some high density foam.

* First of all, GLUE in the upper buttstock screw (the nut I mean) nut that sits inside the channel beneath the issued buttplate (just a small dab to hold it in place)
* Shape a piece of high density packing foam to sit inside the buttplate hinge cavity
* Cover the foam with the JB Weld and build it up, I did this over 2 nights and let each layer cure to a solid mass.
* As you build up the layers, employ some plastic ClingWrap or SaranWrap over the JB Weld and ScotchTape it so that it follows the profile of the buttstock, this saves you a lot of rasping and sanding. The JB Weld will cure UNDER the film of plastic.

Have a look at this picture, you will see the buttplate against the foam block and when the JB Weld is dropped in, the SaranWrap plastic film prevents the resin from sticking to the buttplate. This will shape the outside lip/rim of the resin that contacts the top radius of the M1 Garand buttplate.

Just like Mrs. Frizzell in the "Magic Schoolbus" Show.... "Have fun, make mistakes and discover!" It really is a great project!!

PM me if you need more information!



Barney

 

[Hungry]

Front sight blade too high? Are you zeroed at 100 yards/meters with more than 10 clicks from absolute bottom ? Here is your fix! Real cheap, too!

Okay M14 lovers in CGNutz Wonderland:

Here's how to lower that klik count (learned from my NRA High Power shooting days) to a nice single digit value (like 8 or 9 kliks).

* Go to your range, benchrest, sandbag in your M14, grab your ammo, screwdriver, variety of files/rasps
* Use a bullseye target 100yards/meters from your bench (either center or 6 o'clock hold will work)
* shoot a group to confirm your 100m/yds zero then count the number of kliks to absolute bottom. You happy now?
* If your count to absolute bottom is double digits (like 11 or 12 or 15 or more), grab your file
* Start filing downwards (see the slope of the factory front sight blade?) and towards muzzle of flash suppressor
* Keep the file FLAT, keep the profile of the front sight blade square (from the rear sight, I mean)
* Give it about 5 to 10 strokes, if you brush the side protector wings of the front sight then Birchwood Casey Cold Blue Paste is your friend. Use Q-tips to apply.
* Shoot another group of 3 or 5 rounds
* Observe to see if you need to LOWER your rear sight aperture. AHA! The magic is working. Hungry knows WTF he's doing!
* Keep doing this until your klik count is about 8 or 9 kliks from absolute bottom. That's it!
* Final inspection, look through rear sight aperture, ensure edges are square, then COLD Blue the freshly filed metal surfaces.

A late addition from CGNutter Badasmo:

I was reading your message posted and thought I'd offer something you missed. In the days before computers, I spent about 4 hours per day doing trigonometry calculations. Anyway, I calculated the amount of material you would remove from the front sight to equal .0075" per inch at 100 yards. So if the impact is 4 inches high, you would need to remove .030". I thought you might want to add that to your informative post.

You CGNutters have come to know my posts, I'm not a biggie for mathematical measurements, but there you have the solution. Anyways, have fun!

IF YOU FZck things up and go too low... front sights are not that expensive (I've done this ). And that's why I'm your advisor/mentor for all this M14 fun... It's because I've fzcked up more times that all of you... well except for Laz2000 and M14doctor... they are catching up to my antics!

And here's the anecdotal funny story (for those of you who have attended my M14 clinic).

I established a low rear sight click count of SIX for obtaining a super low cheek position for the Stage 1 of the NRA High Power NM course of fire; 200 yard off hand/standing position. I used the Sierra MK 168 gr bullet with 42.5 gr of IMR 4895. Well halfway through the season I ran out of IMR 4895 and switched to our team's load of 43.0 gr W748.

My SIX clicks was too low! :facepalm: D'oh!! Too low for the 100m zeroing bull target. And yes, I was competing with a Springfield Armory M1A with NM barrel and McMillan fat bastard M1A heavy stock. Apparently I shaved off too much metal from the front sight, my coach laughed at this because he too made that mistake many years ago! Hey, it's all good!

I had to buy another front sight and start this process all over again. Cost me $ 10 for the front sight and $ 15 for mailing and tracking number.

Okay, get those files out and 'have at 'er!!

Cheers all,

Barney

 

[Hungry]

M14 Flash Hider Removal

This video was supplied on Youtube. Kindly done to share information with other CGNutters owning M14's but annoyed at the current factory flash hider! This is my favorite method for getting the flash hider off.

Suggestion: Keep a spare flash hider just in case the factory one rips apart with the 2 welds. I did that ripping process and just tossed the factory/torn unit into the scrap metal bin at my local auto parts recycling yard.

[youtube]6xf0M9uAjks[/youtube]

Some of the more recent 2009 Norc and Poly M14's have very light welds. The 2002 and 2003 series of M14's seem to have very strong welds. Just an observation!

Cheers and happy M14 addiction!

Barney

 

[Hungry]

Polyester Resin Painting your USGI M14 Stock- Most durable surface paint

For those of you who put your stocks through very hard use (read: Mcmillan stocks et al.) this method will be interesting.

Introduction:

The entire painting / coloring of the polyester resin began after I played with a buddy's M1A Supermatch with McMillan Fat bastard M1A glass stock. Very PHAT, very stiff, but impractical for running or hunting with. I wanted to build a super stiff competition or Precision stock with the slim profile of the USGI glass stock design.

Here is my inspiration:




I observed that McMillan stock people do not compromise and their paint jobs are molded in according to their web site. So I tried doing the same, but on a welfare budget because I got kids in University and access to polyester resin and pigments from Ukrainian Tire.

While competing for many years, I tried the Krylon routine because spray paints were easily found in lots and lots of colours, but they had some weaknesses:

* Insect repellent on your cheeks cause embarrassing colour stains on your face
* Cleaning solvents (read: Brake cleaner) would compromise the spray paints
* The spray paints were easily abraded off during stalks (yup, I did a few of these)

Colours:

I chose colors that were / are easily reproduced or mixed. Browns are touch and go since you have to mix red & blue to get purple, then some yellow to get brown and then finally either shade with black and then tint with white to achieve the particular color matched hue of brown.

At least with the black, grey , and blue color scheme of the McMillan Stock Urban Camo selection, I could easily replicate these colors to carry out touch-ups as necessary.

Primary colours (red, yellow, & blue) are easy to obtain. Secondary colours (green, orange, purple) are also easy to mix and match up from the primary colors. These are principles of ART that I studied as a teacher and yes, I did teach Pottery and Art classes so I'm not just a qualified killer. Hey, I was PPCLI

So choose your colours well and plan accordingly!


I'm in process of refining this thread and soon enough it will be a sticky. I am layering the gel coat or polyester resin as we speak. Here is a sneak preview. Ongoing project .... so please don't mind the construction:

Early project pictures that will soon turn into a How-to-do-it thread!

Have a gander at the brushes (Dollar Store is your friend). I tried using a sponge to dab the polyester resin, but the resin dissolved the sponge. OOps!

Have a look at this picture because I applied 8 layers of measured cut fiberglass cloth 10 oz., to the interior and then let all the resin cure. I wanted a very stiff front end for future match shooting with this rigid front end. Try this right now with your box stock/ as-issued USGI glass stock... take the barreled receiver out of the stock. Brace that buttstock on the floor and between your knees. Grab the front end of the forestock with both hands and torque the front end. You will notice that this stock is soft. It's just fine for carrying in the jungles or desert, but for more precise shooting, I want a stiffer front end.





I use a dowel about 5/8" clamped to the ladder (do this in the garage, not in the basement) outside since the fumes are pretty noxious. The dowel in the buttstock cavity allows you to rotate the stock for inspection, further touchups, and reapplying the colored resin




Polyester resin from Cambodian Tire, pigments come from Noah's Marine in Moronto (google is your friend). Medicine cups are from my surgery a few years back (while recovering... I wheeled around in my wheelchair snagging people's med cups for this purpose)




Keep the surfaces high, add a little more hardener, work fast and build up the pigmented polyester resin because lots of the surface will be sanded down/flush!




I like the Navy or Urban Camo pattern as found in the McMillan Stock website gallery! I think it looks cool without being too camo'ish looking!




The first layer of coloured / pigmented resin is ready for sanding under the running trickle of water in the sink. The reason I use the 220 grit wet/dry is because the fine particles are hazardous to your breathing system and also gets in your skin via your sweaty pores. This stuff is itchy. Ask me how I know.

There is a reason I've taken this under running water.




I will be updating this thread / post on a constant basis this weekend. Right now I'm sanding the coats down using a 220 grit wet sand (over the kitchen sink). Don't tell my wife....





This pair of pics (above and below) show the entire stock covered completely with all 3 colours and now the stock is ready for 'leveling' of the pigmented and cured resin. See the glossy black colour? That's the second and final layer of pigmented resin.

The FIRST layer is your BACKGROUND colour or BASE colour (in my case , it's black). Then after that first BASE layer, you can start playing with the different colours for the camo scheme. The purpose is to build up layers of pigmenting BEFORE the leveling sanding process.






Here is the setup in the kitchen sink. Here I use the 220 grit wet n' dry sandpaper to bring down the high spots. Sometimes the brown factory finish will show through. Easy to touch up another day when the stock dries out then sand/feather with some more sandpaper, but hand sand it to keep that high spot pigmented.



Tomorrow I will fill in the low spots with a few (several) layers of clear (unpigmented) polyester resin and even all the surfaces with light sanding using some 400 grit wet 'n dry under the flowing water, of course. Ensure your wife does not see you doing this. Thanks to the kind lady friends of hers who took her shopping to Pennsylvania for the weekend. yuk yuk yuk





Here is a pic of my attempts to filling in the low spots with clear (unpigmented) polyester resin. The shinny spots are the dabs of resin added with a small paintbrush.



Another pic, but closer of the dabs as they harden up. Then I will sand them down gently tonight.



Tonight I will apply the final coats of clearcoat resin and that will be the end. I drilled out the holes for the sling swivel plate and also the weep hole.

Ensure that you sand down the receiver contact points so that you fit will not be compromised. Gotta do that tonight.

Have a look at the sling swivel plates inside the 8 layers of glass layup. Using a 3/8" drill bit, I "countersunk" the 10 x 24 tpi bolts into the glass. I even used the existing 3/8" long # 10 x 24 tpi screws from the USGI glass stock unmodified.



For you purists, I'm using specially welded NM modified sling swivel plates that I've imported from USA and you can see the Allen head # 10 x 24 tpi screws with industrial finish (read: tactical looking for my mirror posing).




Have a gander at the interior contact points for the trigger group. I have a bit of over bleed / drip on the edges, so a file will take care of that situation. Trigger group had a tougher/tighter fit initially. All these contact point will have to be prepared for the final re-assembly.




Final sanding tonight and final reassembly. Been a long 2 weeks! And here are the finished pictures....




As time goes by that final unpigmented polyester resin clearcoat will cure and harden up, the shine will likely go away with some passes of wet/dry 400 grit sand paper under flowing water.




Yes, that is a USGI flash suppressor. Old school is my style! Bayonet lug is present and not neutered. Many of you know this USGI flash suppressor is NOT reamed to 0.406" NM interior diameter so that you clinic attendees will know how tight the originals were. Makes you appreciate the Norc/Poly M14's coming out today already NM dimensioned.







You might make out the high spots that show the base coat (black) bleed through and now you see the factory plum/brown paint that came with the USGI stock. I deliberately did not paint them over. I wanted to highlight the uneven surface of the rifle stock right from their factories. You work with what you got, even them high spots.



Some of you will recognize the NEA Expanded Magazine Release that I just upgraded and did a review on. They are quite slick.



Conclusion:

Well does one need to do it? Only if you love the smell of curing fiberglass in the morning. "Smells like Victory!" I wanted to build a stock like the Mcmillan M1A Urban Camo but I did not wanna pay $ 500 plus plus. I did this entire project on the cheap and all of the materials MIGHT have totaled about $ 50 tops including all the 3 sheets of 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper from RONA, the polyester resin tin from Cambodian Tire, the dollar store brushes, the extra hardener, and $ 10 for the pigments from Noah's Marine, in Moronto, Bantario.

I would not try this YET until you experiment with mixing colours (primary colours red, blue, yellow) will give rise to secondary colours purple, green, and orange.

Browns are made by mixing up blue/red to get purple, add yellow to get some brown and then tint with white or maybe shade with black pigments. That's the hard part of doing brown....even harder if you wanna do TAN.

Green is easy because it's just blue and yellow, but OD green is much tougher and hit/miss to replicate if you use if for a base colour. That's why I used black for a base colour.

Gotta hit the gym right now. Need to work out and get rid of the weird feelings I've had all day with Remembrance Day thoughts at school.

 

[Hungry]

Tonight is my final re-assembly night. Gotta do the final finish surface sanding with 440 grit wet/dry. Will take some pics of the barreled action in the newly painted stock. You are all gonna love it!

It's a work of beauty. Even my wife says so!

Here it is:



As time goes by that final unpigmented polyester resin clearcoat will cure and harden up, the shine will likely go away with some passes of wet/dry 400 grit sand paper under flowing water.









You might make out the high spots that show the base coat (black) bleed through and now you see the factory plum/brown paint that came with the USGI stock. I deliberately did not paint them over. I wanted to highlight the uneven surface of the rifle stock right from their factories. You work with what you got, even them high spots.



Some of you will recognize the NEA Expanded Magazine Release that I just upgraded and did a review on. They are quite slick.




Cheers,
Barney

 

[Hungry]

2009 Poly/Norc Plastic Stock Ferrule Reduction

Some of you may realize that your plastic stock might be a tad "Long" for the ferrule that kisses up to the front band. M14Doctor suggests this quick fix:

the plastic poly stocks are a bit of a bugger to get the ferrule off. essentially a small flat blade instrument and yes, pry her off. may require some fine tuning with pliers to straighten any kinks out that may form during removal.

then with a file, carefully remove material from the forstock from both the ferrule lip face, the part it goes on, and the main body of the stock. This is to allow for the ferrule to be seated farther back on the stock.

once the modifications are done, put the ferrule back on without epoxy and assemble to rifle, observing the VERTICAL gap between the front 90 degree face of the ferrule and the gas assembly band.

if you want to be technical and by the book... this vertical gap should be 15thou optimally but for the layman...... as long as you see light through it and have at least a milimeter of space between the vertical face of the ferrule and the gas band.... yer good to go. use a reliable 2 part epoxy paste and reseat the ferrule, ensuring the face is 90 degrees to the top plain of the stock.

those with fiberglass and wood stocks (chinese ones included) most likely can skip this whole thread as the problem we are discussing primarily affects the plastic stocks..... every single one i've seen as a matter of fact. We are talking about fixing a problem that is inherent to the plastic stocks, this ferrule "re seating" is not an NM modification.... it is a correction.

now..... as for actual NM modifiations of the stock and ferrule....... this is a DIFFERENT procedure and applies to all stocks and pertains to clearancing the ferrule around the gas cylinder to relieve any contact points between stock and action. This can be done with a rat tail file or careful application of a dremmel with a cylindrical grinding stone. Essentially, looking at the nose end of the stock with ferrule in place.... it appears as a "U" shape...... and you want to make it look more like a circle with the top missing . So, remove only enough material from the side wals and bottom of the "U" of the ferrule until you see a visible gap all around the cylinder.

Now the only part of the stock that should be in contact with the gas cylinder is the bottom outside of the ferrule, where it engages the lip on the gas band..... a location where NO MODIFICATIONS should take place.

 

[Hungry]

How to remove your rear sights

All this information is on YouTube, BTW...

Taking off M1 Garand sights are straightforward because there are NO QC issues... but...

Taking off the old NORC sights are goofy and hit/miss:

Flat blade screw driver to the rear windage knob pinion. About 3 turns should spin it freely.
Unscrew rear windage knob until is comes loose entirely... chinese knobs need prying off with screw driver because they are pure SHZT, most of the time.

Elev'n knob comes loose from left side. Slide out/up rear aperture
Flat blade screw driver in slot where aperture slid in/down and PRY forward. Rear spring cover and base come loose. Don't be scared / alarmed by snapping noise....

Wipe off all factory oil / grease/ toxic PCB laden lubricant and wash yer hands before you go pee... or yer #### will fall off!




How to install your rear sights (after you took them off)

Some of you might have upgraded your rear iron sights with some USGI M1 Garand or USGI M14 replacements. Here's how to do it, just OFF the top of my head. I do this so frequently, it's like shaving my face!

GREASE the threads of the elevation pinion screw RFN (right now) and then grease the threads of the windage knob as well. This helps prevent cross threading especially if you are using NM threaded/pitch knobs/rear sight base.

Just for your reference, you experienced Garand sight users: The USGI M1 Garand thread pitch is 16 tpi (threads per inch). The NM spec to obtain 1/2 MOA per klik is 32 tpi and hence is easier/prone to cross threading. Been there, done that! Had to help another CGNutter recover from this error. years ago!

I start with the elevation knob pushed in (left or portside) as far as it can go.
Then I center the elevation pinion screw in the center of the windage knob 'window' and attempt to 'screw' windage knob into place.
Keep up the pressure (windage knob from the right or starboard side) and screw the windage knob in place until it's flush. This requires a 'feel' that cannot be described on the internet.

Sometimes I will wiggle the rear sight base left and right until the windage knobs settles as tight as it can go into the rear sight base.

Once you are flush and even and all the knobs have no further to screw in, you will know that the knobs are 'home' position because the windage knob now 'clicks' and the rear base moves left and/or right per click.

I now take a flat blade screwdriver and tighten the windage knob pinion screw 1 or TWO half clicks to obtain the tension needed to move the rear base left and / or right without having to push on the elevation pinion screw head from the left to the right with my left thumb. Go and do that right now with your M14 or M1 Garand sights. As you move the windage left or right, now PUSH on the slotted pinion screw(elevation knob) towards the windage knob. Notice the windage knob is EASIER to klik (left or right) ?

I'm hoping this will work for you. Works for me all the time!

mates!

Barney

 

[Hungry]

Installing An ARMS18 Mount by M14Doctor

I find it odd that so many folks have issues getting ARMS 18 style mounts to align correctly.

Here's my tips:

* Get rid of the horse shoe washer on the inside of the retaining bolt. This lil bugger is what offsets the front of the mount... I ditch it every time.

* The rear screw that attaches to the stripper clip guide key. This has an adjustable pad that is key to alignment.

* Remove the screw and use a slot screw driver to adjust. First step is to back it out so it doesn't make contact upon "test fit" install. Same goes for the front pad.

**on my Promag version this rear adjustable pad was installed backwards from the package. The slotted face should face up, away from the receiver.

* Snug fit the side bolt and set a 3/4 or 1" dowel on the mount. Observe position.

* Then slowly bring rear pad to just touch the clip guide key.

* Install rear screw to just snug, then fully tighten side bolt

* Check alignment and level.

* These can now be adjusted by removing rear screw and lessening or increasing the tension of the rear pad. Reinstall screw and fully tighten.

* Finally adjust front pad until it just touches receiver.

Seems to work every time for me, and I install an awful lot of the ARMS18 style mounts.

As for your friends advice to buy one of these fun rifles.... Hungry said it all

 

[Hungry]

M14 / M1A Receiver White Painting Like a Pro

I have always wanted to find simpler, cleaner, and faster cleanup procedures for 'white painting' your M14/ M1A receiver. I grew up fondling real USGI M14 rifles that were imported for $ 400 back in 1986 or was it 1987? Don't get old... it's not getting easier.

So I started out using 'WhiteOut' simply because it was easy to clean up afterwards with Acetone or Nail Polish Remover. Don't tell your wife or daughter that you dug into their stash...

That worked for many years, but sometimes during the cleanup, the excess would run all over the creases and a ghost white image would 'cloud' up the machine marks or the parkerizing etching on the receiver. Then I really would have a larger clean up job on my hands requiring an old toothbrush and scouring powder/ VIM compounds.

So let's get started:

Prepare the receiver (target area to be "paint filled" )
* Masking tape is your friend
* Use a China Marker in White (artists supply, hobby supply, used car dealership, used car parts supply)
* White Crayon from your kids' coloring crayon collection

Then rub the white crayon, in all FOUR directions to FILL the engraving/stamping.

Make circles ALSO !

Identify the missing spots (corners, tops of letters, interior of letters and numbers)

As you can see, I still have a few corners to fill

Use a rag, cotton works well; rub off all the excess surface white wax/crayon and fill in once again as needed (smaller circles around the gaps)

Clean up, wipe up and admire your work!

In this picture, have a look at the numbering on my NM sight 'barrel' and then the windage knob! Since I was a NRA High Power shooter, I hung around many Americans who seem to enjoy this kind of practice for all their match rifles.

Well, I hope this customization will work for you. It's all good fun!

Cheers and thanks,

Barney

 

[Hungry]

Canadian and US M14 Parts Suppliers/Dealers/Pushers for our addiction

Canadian Suppliers:

M14.ca, stock and parts
Armtac, lrb parts
Fabsports, a few m1a parts / sadlak
Wolverine, a few mounts and odds (currently have match sights)
Lever arms, magazines
hical (Promag stocks)
NEA (mag releases, bolt releases, op rod spring guides)
Dlask (op rods and adjustable gas locks)
Tac-Pro (cheek rests)
hical.ca, variety of M14 products
ICR (Ingram Custom Rifleworks) for high quality composite M14 stocks

US Suppliers:

Treelinem14, usgi parts
Brownells, springfield parts also Smith

 

[Hungry]

Why does the Flash Suppressor PING?

When you tighten up the entire barrel assembly including the gas system after it's been unitized (read shimmed or welded or selecting the tightest gas lock fit), then the barrel vibrates as one. Here's a video or two where my M1A with a SA USGI 7.62mm chrome-lined barrel shoots and everytime, you will hear a ping....

Head over to YouTube. Search for Funker Tactical. Look through their posts/ videos and find the one with me in front....

M14 University they called it... that really was funny.

Search for my Glock bloopers... oh wait , I found it:

[Youtube]QjTe0KF7u8o&feature=relmfu[/Youtube]

Now watch this one at about minute 4 or so... listen for the PING of my rifle... even minute 1:20 when I shoot the vase (yard sale purchase)or 2:37 when I shoot the octopus hostage taker...


[Youtube]hgLUtM-L3Ck&feature=em-uploademail[/Youtube]

And don't give me any guff about the hammer hitting the primer... I was sun fzcked at that point in the afternoon during the filming.

Have fun with the PING!! It's one of the indicators that your gas gun is tight and vibrating as ONE.

Cheers,
Barney