M14 flash hider

af_newbie

af_newbie

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Hi there,

Does anyone know how to remove the flash suppressor from
Norinco's M14?

I removed the front sight, losen the suppressor nut, but now
should I just take it off with my precision tool aka a hammer?

Is there an easy way to remove Norinco's flash suppressors?
 
I've removed 3 and i havent had to drill or dremel any of them yet the "welds" on those 3 were seriously lacking in quality. after you get the cstle nut backed off hit the edge of the neutered bayo lug with a drift and a hammer
you will want to secure the rifle so it dosent move :D
 
And the muzzle area of a M305 barrel is not particularly thick - and your blows are not entirely linear, but are at a slight angle.
Give it a couple of sharp raps, but if the welds don't let go, don't beat the snxt out of it. The flash hider welds are subject to the same QC as some other aspects of Chinese firearms. Some welds are poorly done, others are not only strong solid welds, they are even air hardened, and do not drill easily.
Just a suggestion - if you don't really need to remove the FH, let it be. If you do need to remove it, the FH may be ruined in the process, so make sure you can get a replacement.
 
i use my dremel tool with a 1/8" diamond ball material removal bit. I find the welds and grind them a bit, then tap the flash hider. There is a spot below the sight that would normally have a bayonet lug.... this is where you hit it if you are going to. Like mentioned above.... don't beat the hell out of it.... couple sharp raps.... if no go, then grind away a bit more material. I use a standard hammer and a block of hardwood, hitting the hardwood instead of the rifle itself.
 
what 45acpking said. You don't have to drill through the welds, at least on the ones I have seen done. Drill through them until the radiused part of the drill bit is sunk, then tap it a couple of times. If that is still a no go, drill a little deeper and repeat.

Some are messy. One that I saw had to have its entire weld area removed with a dremel.
 
I like the radial arm saw myself ....
cut the barrel @ 19", and the whole stupid disgusting mess at the end falls off.
[;{)
 
And if the rifle is going to be shortened, that is the way to do it. Don't even bother to try to get the FH off. Although a hacksaw or chopsaw might be better than a radial arm saw.
 
The last barrel we tried to shorten by cutting on a lathe with a hard parting tool went just fine ... until the tool hit the outside of the chrome bore lining. Then the tool turned blue, got dull, and all around "bad Chit Hoppen Mon ".

Hacksaw??
Ferget it mon ....
unless you have one of those abrasive carbide laced blades.
[;{(

Crowning the chrome lined barrel is a major pain as well, but at least I've got carbide tools for that part.

Yep, the best way to remove the flashider is with a radial arm saw ...
or a chopsaw if that is what you got handy.
LAZ 1
 
Lazerus2000 said:
The last barrel we tried to shorten by cutting on a lathe with a hard parting tool went just fine ... until the tool hit the outside of the chrome bore lining. Then the tool turned blue, got dull, and all around "bad Chit Hoppen Mon ".

Hacksaw??
Ferget it mon ....
unless you have one of those abrasive carbide laced blades.
[;{(

Crowning the chrome lined barrel is a major pain as well, but at least I've got carbide tools for that part.

Yep, the best way to remove the flashider is with a radial arm saw ...
or a chopsaw if that is what you got handy.
LAZ 1
Click to expand...

Try ceramic inserts.T hey cut chrome just fine as long as you dont take too big of cut or its an interupted cut.(They tend to shatter :D)
 
730win94 said:
I've removed 3 and i havent had to drill or dremel any of them yet the "welds" on those 3 were seriously lacking in quality. after you get the cstle nut backed off hit the edge of the neutered bayo lug with a drift and a hammer
you will want to secure the rifle so it dosent move :D
Click to expand...

You're lucky. tiriaq rebarrelled mine for me and he had to cut the original flashider off so I could salvage the original barrel. Now I have a nice GI profile 18.5" barrel with no front sight. Oh, and I still can't remember where I put my GI gas lock for the new barrel anyway.
 
Well, replace the gas cylinder lock with one of the front sight units, thread the muzzle for a brake or slash suppressor, and there is a shorty barrel ready to go. If you aren't going to use it, I bet it would sell very quickly, with the current flood of new M305s into the market.
Your new barrel would be US thread, wouldn't it?
 
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