I'm just trying to edit it now to make it somewhat understandable lol. Its common to all handguard rails that I've seen for the M14, I think the only one that doesn't have this issue is KAC but I'd have to see one to be sure.
M14/m305 Railed upper hand guard?
- Thread starter Maximcan
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For one thing the receiver bolt was so far out I would have filed right out of the arm to get the bolt in.
I did the same kind of thing as the video. The front has 2 saddles so I shimmed up enough on one of the saddles to get the rail straight and true and the hole lined up. Then built up with JB weld on the other saddle. One bit of packing tape around the barrel so the JB doesn't stick and some glazing putty(like for glass) on the rail to make a pocket for the JB to sit in. Once that dried and was cleaned up I did the same to the second saddle for a permanent fix. I think it would have taken the thickness of two .45 casings.
This was after I had to take a hacksaw and cut 1/8" off the front so it would fit at all, then re-grind the chamfer at the front.
And don't get me started on the cheap low profile screws supplied... the heads will be stripped if you take it apart more than 3 times with the supplied allen key. Get some proper machine screws.
I was suggesting that I may have an odd barrel profile because I don't want to come right out and say the advertising for the UTG rail and it's "bolt on" claim is a load of crap. It does bolt on but getting it to work properly is beyond what's advertised.
I suppose it would be fine for flashlights, lasers, dongle warmers, coffee stirrers and whatever else folks like to hang on their rails.
As for the stripper clip rail ... I'm using a scout scope setup anyway. I took one look at the sloppy fit, said pffft and tossed it in the spare parts bin.
I did the same kind of thing as the video. The front has 2 saddles so I shimmed up enough on one of the saddles to get the rail straight and true and the hole lined up. Then built up with JB weld on the other saddle. One bit of packing tape around the barrel so the JB doesn't stick and some glazing putty(like for glass) on the rail to make a pocket for the JB to sit in. Once that dried and was cleaned up I did the same to the second saddle for a permanent fix. I think it would have taken the thickness of two .45 casings.
This was after I had to take a hacksaw and cut 1/8" off the front so it would fit at all, then re-grind the chamfer at the front.
And don't get me started on the cheap low profile screws supplied... the heads will be stripped if you take it apart more than 3 times with the supplied allen key. Get some proper machine screws.
I was suggesting that I may have an odd barrel profile because I don't want to come right out and say the advertising for the UTG rail and it's "bolt on" claim is a load of crap. It does bolt on but getting it to work properly is beyond what's advertised.
I suppose it would be fine for flashlights, lasers, dongle warmers, coffee stirrers and whatever else folks like to hang on their rails.
As for the stripper clip rail ... I'm using a scout scope setup anyway. I took one look at the sloppy fit, said pffft and tossed it in the spare parts bin.
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I've posted half a dozen times about this and every time apologized for what may have been my oddball barrel profile causing a poor fit but for once I'll speak my mind.
I got it to work but it's no bolt on out of the box, slap the scope on and go.
I got it to work but it's no bolt on out of the box, slap the scope on and go.
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LOL Well I'm glad in your case it was a bolt on out of the box.
I always figured it was the rifles themselves that were the problem. Lots of people reported minor fit problems, nothing like the issues I had.
Half the hole on my receiver was visible below the arm.
I always figured it was the rifles themselves that were the problem. Lots of people reported minor fit problems, nothing like the issues I had.
Half the hole on my receiver was visible below the arm.
