M14 not cycling!!!!! PLEASE HELP HUNTING DAYS AWAY!!!!!

JRW (QOR) said:
Ah, as I figured, nothing pratical, no real advantage, just a personal preference to look `cool`. I get it now. Will leave mine original, as that looks cool:D
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Ever haul your full length 305 thru a large Willow thicket? Try it some time.
 
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Well I am off hunting with the xcr in 6.8 now guys. I could not chance using it even though the group was tight and consistent enough to use her. I did not want to chance damaging her just to get an elk when I have a great standby already. The former owner did a full strip and clean before I got it so I am wondering about the reassembly, could something have been done wrong on his part? I will do a full strip when I get back next week and update everyone here. I want to use it for deer next month still. Thanks everyone this is great advice. What ever I find I will report back and photo document it all.

BTW the op rod does not move at all, not even an attepmt to cycle and the gas valve is perpindicular as it is supposed to be.
 
gnmontey said:
Ever haul your full length 305 thru a large Willow thicket? Try it some time.
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5 inches don't amount to squat- remember, the 14 was fielded in nam, and replaced with the 20 inch m16, and there weren't complaints about how LONG it was- lots of other complaints, but nothing about length
 
The oprod not moving at all suggests a gas system failure of some kind without a doubt.
Can you verify that the piston is moving when the oprod is locked back and you tilt the muzzle straight down and then straight up? It should move freely but with some vacuum like hesitation
 
M14Doctor said:
The oprod not moving at all suggests a gas system failure of some kind without a doubt.
Can you verify that the piston is moving when the oprod is locked back and you tilt the muzzle straight down and then straight up? It should move freely but with some vacuum like hesitation
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I am back home tomorrow and will do that check Tom and post up the result. Open deer is next month so I am going to get this sorted out as soon as possible. Alreadt set up my stands and baits and spotted several bucks on the cameras so all I need is my gun. Thanks again for the help.
 
First thing to do is check spindle valve. Then with oprod locked back, insert a 1/16" drill rod or similar object into the hole under gas cylinder. The rod should pass into the barrel.
Again with oprod locked back and muzzle up, verify piston function by pushing it into the cylinder and quickly removing finger. If it drops like a stone.... Bad. If it drops with some vacuum... Good. Check plug and piston internals for carbon build up and after all that. Shoot us an update.
 
Drew, I have to ask some questions, as once upon a time, I had the exact problem. The cause was shocking to say the least.

1) Prior to attaching the scope, was the rifle functioning properly?

2) What kind of scope mount did you use?

3) Remove the op rod spring and do a tilt test, starting when the bolt is in closed position. What happens? Is there any binding? Does it bind anywhere near the scope mounting screw? Check to ensure that the screw is not protruding into the groove (where the bolt slides).

Here is what happened to me. I installed a scope mount from NC Star. I even posted some pics. Anyway, to make a long story short, I did not do a tilt test. What I did do was re-assemble everything and out to the range I went. Just like you....had a single action. I chalked it up to cheap grease and cold weather. Took it home and inspected. Yup, you guessed it...the screw...and a hard little bugger at that, was protruding into the groove long enough to cause the bolt to bind and lose too much energy. I ground the screw down and .... she was back to normal.
 
sobo4303 said:
Drew, I have to ask some questions, as once upon a time, I had the exact problem. The cause was shocking to say the least.

1) Prior to attaching the scope, was the rifle functioning properly?

2) What kind of scope mount did you use?

3) Remove the op rod spring and do a tilt test, starting when the bolt is in closed position. What happens? Is there any binding? Does it bind anywhere near the scope mounting screw? Check to ensure that the screw is not protruding into the groove (where the bolt slides).

Here is what happened to me. I installed a scope mount from NC Star. I even posted some pics. Anyway, to make a long story short, I did not do a tilt test. What I did do was re-assemble everything and out to the range I went. Just like you....had a single action. I chalked it up to cheap grease and cold weather. Took it home and inspected. Yup, you guessed it...the screw...and a hard little bugger at that, was protruding into the groove long enough to cause the bolt to bind and lose too much energy. I ground the screw down and .... she was back to normal.
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I second this, as I had the same issue with mine. Pull the screw out and fire it a couple times.
 
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Well I am home now and tore the gun out of the chassis. I am going to go out on a limb and say that the gas pistons notched end is supposed to face the trigger and not the muzzle??? Also all the crap that was cleaned off the gun was grease in the op rod channel and roller. Hmmmmm that really should still be there if I am correct???
 
Wel the tapered side was facing the muzzle break and thre chrome side with groves was facing the trigger. I thought the threaded plug to access the piston looked like it had more threads. Now it is fully threaded and seated. Hmmmmmm what else can I find.....lol
 
Well at least we can rule out "Doctor" error LOL
As for that rifle in general, it's previous owner had me perform the accurized squad rifle package and reinstall the AKM.
From my notes, that rifle was a pretty good shooter and IIRC headspace somewhere between 1.6340 and 1.636, it was written in the inspection report.
 
I dunno Tom maybe you had a few "schnicks" before you assembled her??? Hahaha Well back to the range on sunday to runs some ammo through her adn finish setting up the scope. Of course I will grease the bolt adn other areas.
 
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