Planning on doing another M14 Clinic in Mid March at the Vankleek Hill GC like we did a few months ago. That way the Montreal M14 lovers can attend as well.
Excellent news! I think that this March I'll bring my second M-14...
M14 Paint Job
- Thread starter waterArch
- Start date
Excellent news! I think that this March I'll bring my second M-14...
Well my new to me fibreglass stock arrived in the mail from Fab today. It is the "needs some luvin'" version rather than the "good to go", or "needs a lot of luvin'" version.
I've hosed it down and it's sitting in my workshop with the front end soaking in Lee Valley rust remover fluid to clean up the stock ferrule and the front swivel and plate. I'll have to get to the local home depot for Hungry's suggested non-USGI, genital threatening solution for the upper butt plate bolt. I haven't been to one of his M14 clinics but I did buy his DVD set. Great stuff. He's certainly not shy with personal help/hints by e-mail either. Thanks.
I have a few quick questions before I get further into this project for my Norc.
To fill the selector notch, should I use fiberglass & resin or can I just use my trusty standard JB Weld? Same question for the small cracks inside of the butt (around/between the two tool kit tubes)? Any recommended products out there?
Should I relieve the Stock Ferrule while I have it all apart? Should I bother taking the Stock Ferrule off or work with it in place?
hungry here: Relieve it only if you are shooting matches out to 300m or beyond. A 100m bear gitter won't need that style of fixin'. Then again, fix it just for the experience and , "Because it's there." I have found that the front stock ferrule on the USGI glass stocks is glued into place, so I just relieve them with a dremel tool and cut so that only 1/4" or less is remaining from about 6 o'clock to about 4 on the right side and 8 o'clock on the left side. This fix relieves all contact from the recoil with the gas cylinder assembly. I only do this to my match rifles. My own hunting M14 is left without this mod.
I'm still in the market for a good scope mount and I'm playing with getting a new scope for my precision rifle and handing the 10x Super Sniper down to the M14. I think I'll get the stock fixed up but not finished/painted, try it with whatever scope and mount I end up with, and then decide if I want to build the comb up for a scope profile. I presume standard marine (i.e. Canadian Tire) fiberglass kits could be used to build up the stock.
Thanks for all your help in advance. Of course, it is costing me more money but that's part of the fun.
Cheers,
I've hosed it down and it's sitting in my workshop with the front end soaking in Lee Valley rust remover fluid to clean up the stock ferrule and the front swivel and plate. I'll have to get to the local home depot for Hungry's suggested non-USGI, genital threatening solution for the upper butt plate bolt. I haven't been to one of his M14 clinics but I did buy his DVD set. Great stuff. He's certainly not shy with personal help/hints by e-mail either. Thanks.
I have a few quick questions before I get further into this project for my Norc.
To fill the selector notch, should I use fiberglass & resin or can I just use my trusty standard JB Weld? Same question for the small cracks inside of the butt (around/between the two tool kit tubes)? Any recommended products out there?
Should I relieve the Stock Ferrule while I have it all apart? Should I bother taking the Stock Ferrule off or work with it in place?
hungry here: Relieve it only if you are shooting matches out to 300m or beyond. A 100m bear gitter won't need that style of fixin'. Then again, fix it just for the experience and , "Because it's there." I have found that the front stock ferrule on the USGI glass stocks is glued into place, so I just relieve them with a dremel tool and cut so that only 1/4" or less is remaining from about 6 o'clock to about 4 on the right side and 8 o'clock on the left side. This fix relieves all contact from the recoil with the gas cylinder assembly. I only do this to my match rifles. My own hunting M14 is left without this mod.
I'm still in the market for a good scope mount and I'm playing with getting a new scope for my precision rifle and handing the 10x Super Sniper down to the M14. I think I'll get the stock fixed up but not finished/painted, try it with whatever scope and mount I end up with, and then decide if I want to build the comb up for a scope profile. I presume standard marine (i.e. Canadian Tire) fiberglass kits could be used to build up the stock.
Thanks for all your help in advance. Of course, it is costing me more money but that's part of the fun.
Cheers,
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The best product "hands down" that i have found for filling and general refinish on the usgi fiberglas material is GOOP MARINE FIXFAST epoxy putty. 17.00 at RONA taxes in and can be used as an epoxy bedding material as well although for bedding i prefer to use GOOP SUPER WELD as it has higher heat resistance properties. I have almost 200 stocks in the hands of happy customers and this product has been used on ALL of them..... no returns or complaints yet.
Yeah, the Norc M14 buttplate is nearly identical to the USGI M14 baby. Even I have a hard time telling the difference.
When switching to a glass stock from the balsa wood kommunist toxic oil stock, you cannot use the wood screw that secures the buttplate to the wood stock. The buttstock sling swivel is secured to the lower buttplate screw, that does not change from wood stock to glass stock to wood stock. The upper buttplate screw however (is a wood screw) must be replaced with an original machined nut and bolt ($ 9.99 from Numrich Gun Parts) or you can go to Home Depot and buy a # 8 x 2.0" x 32 tpi which happens to be almost the exact same diam and pitch to the USGI glass stock upper buttplate screw.
Remember that is you don't buy USGI parts, yer #### will fall off!
(inside joke in my clinics)
Peace be to journey,
Barney
Hi Hungry,
I bought a couple of rubber recoil pads meant for the M14/M1A from Fabsports. My problem is that they did not come with replacement screws and it just so happens that the original lower butt Plate screw that is threaded into the sling swivel is not long enough. Can I find a screw at Home depot that is long enough and will also fit the thread of the sling swivel? I already checked out Can. Tire, and they don't have anything that fits.
Also, I have two synthetic stocks. Regarding the upper butt plate scew, one stock has a little square nut that fits into a slot, and then the upper butt plate screw threads into that. The the other stock came with nothing in the slot. Again, can I just go to Home Depot to find the appropriate nut that will fit in the slot? Also, when I find a nut can I just glue it into the slot?
Hungry here: YES, go to Home Depot. #8 x 32 x 2" will work (stove bolts). That's all I use. Welfare Approach is the best method in this case. Lower butt plate screw? I've got a spare Norinco threaded one if you are in trouble.
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hmmmmm not sure about that..... I put 4 coats of a matte clear product that while compatable with krylon is not krylon. It's laquer based and resists the effects of chemicals/solvents.
I'll try a test some time and see about the bug spray compatability, i have deep woods, muskol and some other nasty deet filled stuff here to try.
I'll try a test some time and see about the bug spray compatability, i have deep woods, muskol and some other nasty deet filled stuff here to try.
Do you mind to post pics of the stock you received today?
I mean I want to see the condition of it before you do anything because I am debating should I get a medium grade like what you did or get the cheapest one and work the hell out of it (prepare to do a few things / mods etc).
Thx
Well here is my attempt to post some photos of my stock. Before I begin, let me say I'm pretty happy with the state of the stock and dealing with Fab has been great. I also purchased a beginner's air brush set from him that I can now use with my shop's compressor with some left over fittings I had lying around.
This is the fore end with front swivel and plate after I soaked it overnight in corrosion dissolve. It started off quite rusty (sorry I didn't grab a before photo) but the overnight soak took care of it pretty much. I might soak it again for a final clean up.
This is the same end but the top side. Again, the two rivets/washers began quite rusty but cleaned up great. Any corrosion on the the front ferrel cleaned up nicely too.
This is a little further down the fore end. Note there is a small break/crack on the left (lower side). I see no problem fixing this one up with filler.
And here it is in detail if you actually care.
Here are two shots of the receiver recess. I have to fill in the selector cavity and I figure I have to search for the 'popcicle stick repair' to apply too. Cavity looks clean and in good repair.
Here are some shots of the butt area. There are a few small cracks I have to address and I have to provide my own upper bolt and nut but as per Hungry's suggestions, I should have no problem taking care of that at Home Depot or Rona (Rona gives us military members a 5% discount by the way - even us reservists).
I figure I have a little sanding to do, some bondo (or equivalent) to apply, some more sanding, a bolt to replace, and then I have to figure what finish to apply. I may just do Krylon to keep it on the cheep but I have some time to figure that out.
I hope this helps. I figure the stock is pretty good value for the price and I needed another project to keep me busy until the damn snow melts on our outdoor range and that could be May here in Halifax.
WoW! Thanks Fusilier for the very detail pics!
I think the stock you've got is in great shape and all it need is may be some cosmetic fix and finish it off with a coat of paint.
Do you know what is the consensus to use as butt plate or butt pad?
I like the look of the black rubber pad but do you know if the cleaning kit can still be put back in the butt stock?
I am not familiar with the other product 45ACP and Hungry suggest but I have good luck with JB weld and it sticks to pretty much anything I work with before as long as it was prep properly (degreased / scuff over for adhesion etc).
Thanks again for the very detail pics and please post pics on your progress (I still haven't even de-cosmo my M305 received last week yet)
Cheers and congrats on your new stock!
I think the stock you've got is in great shape and all it need is may be some cosmetic fix and finish it off with a coat of paint.
Do you know what is the consensus to use as butt plate or butt pad?
I like the look of the black rubber pad but do you know if the cleaning kit can still be put back in the butt stock?
I am not familiar with the other product 45ACP and Hungry suggest but I have good luck with JB weld and it sticks to pretty much anything I work with before as long as it was prep properly (degreased / scuff over for adhesion etc).
Thanks again for the very detail pics and please post pics on your progress (I still haven't even de-cosmo my M305 received last week yet
)Cheers and congrats on your new stock!
WoW! Thanks Fusilier for the very detail pics!
I think the stock you've got is in great shape and all it need is may be some cosmetic fix and finish it off with a coat of paint.
Do you know what is the consensus to use as butt plate or butt pad?
I like the look of the black rubber pad but do you know if the cleaning kit can still be put back in the butt stock?
I am not familiar with the other product 45ACP and Hungry suggest but I have good luck with JB weld and it sticks to pretty much anything I work with before as long as it was prep properly (degreased / scuff over for adhesion etc).
Thanks again for the very detail pics and please post pics on your progress (I still haven't even de-cosmo my M305 received last week yet
Cheers and congrats on your new stock!
Well my M14 spent almost 6 months in the safe before I got around to degreasing it. I used Simple Green and my wife's laundry tub where I have a short piece of garden hose and a good nozzle. Get yourself a couple of toothbrushes or a small utility brush at Princess Auto or CT. They help greatly. Lastly, get some good rubber gloves or a box of latex (or latex free) gloves to protect your hands.
I took the time to get the damn flash suppressor off. That allowed me to turn the gas cylinder lock around which provides much better lock up. It wasn't easy but it was doable. There are a number of threads here on CGN on how to get the damn thing off.
I plan on using the butt plate from my Norc for now. I don't have any plans on adding the pad but I might yet. I want to get this to the range first.
Cheers
Thanks for the tips and encouraging words!
That makes me feel I am not the only one having my M305 sitting gathering dust. LOL.
I thought about how to de-cosmo the action and barrel and I was thinking of soaking it in mineral spirit (varsol) inside a container which you can pickup from most hardware store to lay wallpapers (you know those long plastic container that you fill it with water for soaking the wallpaper before lay it on the wall) because that way I don't have mess up the laundary tub but who knows if it didn't work I will use the same method you did.
Please let us know your finding on butt plate / pad coz I really wants to know what fit / looks best with the fiberglass stock!
Have a great day!
I use ss bolt and square nut for the top buttplate to plastic stock. I also use ss cap screws and nuts to replace the forend sling swivel on m14 rifle stocks. I got them from the us because its so hard to find anything that really works here.
home depot bulk bins.....for the TOP buttplate screw mod....... get a 2 inch 8x32 phillips taper head machine screws for counter sunk holes, get a 8x32 stainless nut and some JB weld. put a thin coating of grease/vaseline/pam spray on the bolt only so it doesn't bond with the jb..... do not grease the nut.. thread the nut on the very end only and insert into the slot in the buttstock....... force a good amount of JB weld into the cavity that the nut is in and thread the screw in all the way tight (no buttplate yet) . leave it for 12 hours....... then back the screw out and install yer buttplate.... never worry about that pesky screw again
a tip once the JB is in and the screw is tightened, while the JB is still tacky, put your thumb in a sandwichbag and press the JB into shape, flattening it out to make detail work after it's hardened easier. When done "molding' with yer thumb...... leave the baggie sticking to the JB .... it will peel off after it's dry and cured.
I also use round head phillips 8x32 screws for replacing the sling loop rivets up front of the stock.
Nuts are JB welded or epoxy puttied in permanently on the inside wher the rivets and washers were..... throw them away. For this I use epoxy putty (marine fix fast by goop). I also cut the machine screws down with a hack saw to about 1/4 " of thread , smear the thread with epoxy putty, dab a small amount in the washer recesses inside the stock, then insert the screws from the outside, throught the sling loop plate into the stock. install the nuts and tighten. Once tightened up completely cover the nuts with epoxy putty, burying them. Then take a ziploc bag, and cut from it a 1.5" x 2" strip and place over the area covered with epoxy inside the stock and press the epoxy into shape, flattening it out for less detail work/sanding later. The plastic will just peel away once the epoxy has set.
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