M14 problem

D

David_K

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Edmonton, AB
It is a new M14 that I got from Marstar. Haven't had a chance to take it out to the range until last weekend. It's got some real problems. I'm new to owning firearms so any help would be great.

First, it's shoots about 2 feet to the right at 100 yards.

Next, when shooting, way too often the gun will not take the next round from the magazine and will close on an empty chamber. It isn't fun to be greeted with a click when you pull the trigger and you've only shot a round or two.

Also, the bolt doesn't always grab onto the round when you pull back the bolt with a full chamber. It sometimes just stays in the chamber or will just fall onto the magazine instead of out of the gun.

Any help would be really appreciated. This is one of 3 M14s I got and will be going to a friend who was very disappointed when we brought it out and tried it out. The one that I had selected of the three seems to work great though.:dancingbanana: I hope I can go to one of them M14 clinics to get it tuned up. I'm pretty sure the other M14 is good too, but will need to try it out again(took it out once before but only shot a few rounds and didn't check the groupings).

The two good M14s have serial numbers in the 12### and 13### range while the not so good one is in the 5### range. All say 2007 though.
 
Adjust the sights for the first problem, for the second, does it do this with all mags or just one? Mine seems to have this problem with the 20/5.
 
Sounds like the mag isn't inserting all the way. Are you hearing a click when you push it in? Can you pull it out without the release latch?

Also, make sure you don't ride the oprod handle down. If you aren't extracting properly the bolt is not hooking onto the round properly. You could be riding the oprod or it could be a bad extractor.

Accuracywise, are the sights centered? If they are and you are shooting way off, you might want to check your barrel index or your front sight alignment, depending on where your rounds are going.
 
for magazine feeding isues. first : remove your trigger group and look at the mag release roll pin..... you are looking for a damaged or cracked pin. If you find the pin is damaged, p.m. me, I will mail you a replacement.

If the pin appears fine, rub your finger across the top edge of the mag release edge and see if it has any large burrs... stone them... DO NOT FILE them.
If that is fine...... remove your oprod spring guide and spring, now, manipulate the oprod fore and aft in it's track, while pushing down... if the oprod binds unde these conditions..... this could also be causing failure to feed issues as the oprod is dragging itself on the reciver land it rides on.
I have fixed several norcs with this condition and required first a medium fine stone to xtra fine stone to smooth out the land that the oprod rides on.

As stated above, you must pull the oprod to the rear and let go sharply, allowing it to slam home when it chambers a round. To chamber a round ANY other way in these rifles is asking for trouble.

Also, if the rifle is new, from marstar..... don't try any of the above...... send it to marstar for warranty ;)
 
Without getting technical and you being relativly new.

Did you fully strip and clean the crap out of everything ? Just asking because my saftey would not work untill I pulled the trigger group and gave it a shower of brake cleaner (this is after cleaning with mild solvents) to get ALL the crude out of it.

Stripped the bolt, cleaned the magazines all that needs to be done.

Everything is sticky and slow when I got mine, now its much smoother, still hase not been shot yet though.
 
On the issue of the sites, is the rear sight at centre? As powmia 56 said, look at the front sight. If its left of centre, it can be moved right. Even if it is centred, you can still move it right. Mine shot properly when, surprise, surprise, the front site was centred. You can loosen off the set screw and tap it lightly with a hammer and brass drift (to avoid marring). I'd rather get the rear site close to centre as possible for zero by adjusting the front site first.

Some of the operation issues may resolve through shooting and cleaning, as the parts polish themselves through operation, but as 45acpking has suggested, knowing where and how to stone the rough or tight spots will eliminate that need.

But for sure make sure the gun is clean and regreased. There is grit and machining filings in that storage grease.
 
Re: 1) Make sure the sights are correct. Do this by:

"The elevation knob is the drum on the left side of the weapon. Take it all the way down. Then take it back up 12 clicks. Align the windage in the center. This is the starting point from which you will then record changes. This is for a battle sight of 250 meters." The windage knob should align to the little mark below the sight itself on the reciever.

If it wasn't centered properly, it would shoot off target.

2) The other problems.

a) I would repeat the suggestion that you let the bolt handle go hard, and not try to ride it back. Riding it back will not chamber the round properly and it will not fire. Bring the bolt back all the way, and just let it fly. The 'cling!' sound is normal, nay, wonderful.

b) The other issues, I suspect, are cleaning related. Take a can of solvent/defouler/brake clean to the chamber, mag, trigger group, and internal ferrules. Use the bore brush after you spray it, then spray everything down with a light dusting of gun oil, and wipe off any excess. Run the barrel with the solvent too, then spray a light shot through the barrel and run a patch behind it (you want it very lightly oiled to prevent rust).

If neither solve the problem, report back.
 
Oh, one other possibility on the sights... Many people flip the rifle over for maintenance and the rifle may end up resting on the rear sight. This is bad, and if handled poorly could result in the rear sight being bent out of alignment. It is a very good idea to ensure that the stock is supported when placed upside down to prevent this.
 
Paul Morrison
Use the bore brush after you spray it, then spray everything down with a light dusting of gun oil, and wipe off any excess.
Click to expand...

Uhhh....everything I've read/heard/been told was NOT to get ANY oil on the gas piston. That should be cleaned yes, but completely dried with no oil.
 
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