M14 USGI Glass Stock - Reinforcing that "Noodly" front end for Accuracy Gains!

TacticalTeacher

TacticalTeacher

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How to Reinforce that "Noodly" front end for Accuracy Gains - M14 USGI Glass Stock

Moderators: Please move this post to the FAQ section with the rest of my posts on tweaking this rifle. Thanks a bunch....

TacticalTeacher here (business account for Hungry, your previous MBR Forum Moderator)....

I finally had a chance to document how to strengthen the noodly front end of the USGI glass stock which I happen to love so dearly for inexpensive competition with it's humble beginnings (cheap or cracked or rusty)

All you need are some basic tools and fiberglassing skills (Acetone is essential for cleanup and/or mistakes)

Here is a picture of the front end of my stock, I am avoiding the sling swivel plate that had the rivets replaced by drilling them out and swapping for screws and nuts combination.



Start the process by scraping the factory paint and whatever clearcoats exist...



Keep on the scraping and cleaning for a superior bond with the resin:



At this point, I think I am almost done:



Measure/precut your 10 oz (Cambodian Tire or any auto supply shop) cloth so that it will fit inside the contour of your stock to be reinforced. Feel free to 'dry run' the laying down of the cloth before applying the sticky resin so that you are not in for any goofy surprises.




I used medicine cups or Lily brand waxed cups from my wife's bathroom for the mixing process. Steal all the used popsicle sticks you can from your kids after they complete their sweet desserts! :D

I like to use old toothbrushes for a variety of purposes. So here I am appling the resin at the bottom of the forestock , then brushing it up along the sides to 'grab' the fiberglass cloth...



Apply the fiberglass cloth (this can be sticky so keep that Acetone bottle handy, tissue or paper towel nearby is essential) to the interior and ensure the edges adhere under the curvature of the forestock lips.



Then pour all the remaining resin mixture so that all the 'dry' fiberglass cloth is covered and soaked with the resin goop.

Have a look at the cloth when it's totally soaked in resin. Looks smooth and clean.



Now I let the stock cure overnight in the garage. The fumes are really overwhelming for the the inside of the house, so ensure you prepare your curing 'station' in the garage that is level for the stock to cure and hopefully the resin will not shift with the 'level' stock curing in an upright position.

Here is the final outcome... Super tuff and super strong for no torsion/twisting and a stiff platform towards better accuracy!



Like Mrs. Frizel on the "Magic School Bus", make mistakes, and discover what works. Have lots of fun....

Try accurizing your Norc on a budget. You will be surprised what you can do for cheap and also have tighter groups. Hey, it's a Norinco; you can only make them better.

Cheers and keep looking after the nooobs,

Barney (aka Hungry or TacticalTeacher)
 
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If you want to avoid air bubbles and what not, lay up a few fiberglass layers on a plastic sheet, fold the plastic over top and roll a socket over it (kind of like a rolling pin). It'll get the resin all nice and evenly distributed and you can just cut the fiberglass to shape while it's sandwiched between the plastic sheet. Peel one side off and stick it in the stock, pushing down on it to match the contours and then peel off the top layer of plastic and you're good to go. :cool:
 
M14 USGI Glass Stock - Reinforcing that "Noodly" front end for Accuracy Gains!

Never done such a tweak on a Norc plastic stock so I don't know if such a reinforcement would help the black plastic stock. Now regarding the heat buildup generated in a rapid fire string of a shooting match. I never once experienced any issues but ymmv.

Yeah my wife reminds me it's her bathroom and frequently boots me out; I have the joy of cleaning all the bathrooms so that responsibility makes them all mine. Ha ha ha ha

Cheers, Barney.
 
Dling said:
If you want to avoid air bubbles and what not, lay up a few fiberglass layers on a plastic sheet, fold the plastic over top and roll a socket over it (kind of like a rolling pin). It'll get the resin all nice and evenly distributed and you can just cut the fiberglass to shape while it's sandwiched between the plastic sheet. Peel one side off and stick it in the stock, pushing down on it to match the contours and then peel off the top layer of plastic and you're good to go. :cool:
Click to expand...

yes indeed, very good technique
keeps the fiber in good condition and pose with precision

you can also put SEVERAL fiber layer suddenly
utlisant this method around a small roll
 
Tactical Teacher forgot to mention (either the fumes or retirement is turning his brain to mush...hahaha), that you can get away with using fewer layers of cloth if you epoxy old graphite or carbon fibre arrow shafts under the lip along the sides of the forestock. Steal them from your kids' jr. archery set, or find your local archery club, there are usually some broken arrows laying about. Just make sure you don't use anything too thick as to cause interference around the barrel and gas cylinder.
 
I put down ten layers of cloth. Or was it eight? I did not have both hands available to count so I'm not quite sure. Time for another project like this one. :)

Cheers and keep on assisting them noooobs around this community. :wave:

Barney
 
I doubt that you would ever have an issue with heat. My grandfather had a wooden fiberglass boat that crapped the bed after 30 years so we burned it . All that was left was the fiberglass she'll. Every stitch of wood was gonna brass screws melted but the fiberglass was still fairly rigid. Actually very cool
 
Ian Robertson said:
If I might suggest, use epoxy (no smell) and use unidirectional carbon fibre and do the main build up on the walls to create two beams.
Click to expand...
I am honored and humbled by your kind suggestions. It's truly an experience to learn from this input from the professional stock builder(s).

Dudes... Ian R is THE stock maker from Roberston Composites. They make some fantastic pieces of work! Well, they used to. I guess it's a long story. Being a business owner myself, I do know it's a tough existence and sometimes patience and good will does run short, but we do the best with what we have. What I'm saying is that a business sure takes it's toll on yer mind! :cool:

Cheers and keep on helping them nooobs out there! :wave:

Barney
 
I thought I'd add a little tip if you feel like going the extra mile on this.

The strength of fiberglass is related to compression during the curing processand the amount of excess resin that remains in the finished product. There are elaborate systems used in industry where suction is used (we call it vacuum bagging) where the work piece is placed in a large heavy plastic bag and suction is used to create compression and extract as much resin as possible before it cures. This makes for a much stronger finished product.

Now I understand that few CGNers would have access to a resin vacuum bag system, there are low tech options that could closely replicate the result.

One method that comes to mind would be to use C-clamps to clamp a stick or bar coated with Johnson's floor paste (as a release agent) down on top of the resin saturated fiberglass cloth. This would create the compression and add strength. It would squeeze the extra resin to the surface where you could hog it out later with a carbide bur and a dremel tool after it cures. Just make sure the stick you use to compress has no undercuts otherwise it will end up glued in. You don't want to have to chisel it out after.
 
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