M14S hammer don´t lock.

Stig

Stig

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M14S hammer don´t lock.

Hi !

I have a problem that I wan´t to know if anyone else are familiar with it...

My M14S (from DARK) needed a new bolt. I bought a "new" TRW bolt and after some bolt lapping it fits nice. However, now the hammer don´t lock if I pull the trigger. It always lock when I chamber the first round. The next shot loaded semi auto causes the hammer to follow the bolt forward.

With the old chinese (now useless) bolt the hammer locks fine. I have tried another trigger group from an M14S and the same thing occurs.

I need the hammer to reach 1/10 mm higher or the bolt the same lower aginst the hammer. Otherwise my receiver is useless.

Notice the thicker chinese bolt on the picture.

A USGI trigger group might work?

The problem are the same with another stock as well. The system works if I NOT has the stock installed.

HELP !!!!

P2241951.jpg
 
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I agree withg ROB P. Sounds like a stock issue .
If it works without the stock ,but doesn't hold the hammer back when in the stock , sounds like you need to do some fitting to the stock to get the trigger-group fully seated in the receiver .
Hope this helps !
Mike
 
i have also had this issue with swapping out parts to G.I.
the identical problem as the topic here in fact, with a TRW bolt.
I corrected the problem by installing a NEW HR usgi hammer into my norc trigger group.... problem solved with no stock alteration.

I hesitate to adjust a new stock on a new rifle until i have tried all other possibilities. The new rifle will settle into a new stock after several to a couple hundred rounds so adjustments to an out of the box stock is not a good idea. If the rifle fails in more than one stock..... one can generally rule out a stock fit issue.

FIRST step when discovering this problem is to carefully measure with a digital caliper the measurement from the top surface of the stock to the trigger pad surface of the stock. This dimension should be 1.703" -.010 , and if your stock measures correctly , then NO adjustments should be made to the stock. You should look elswhere to solve the problem.

ALSO check the rear hammer hook on the oprod side of the rifle and where it travels inside the stock. Be sure that there is no stock material impeding this part of the trigger group.
 
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Ok fine,
I just checked FOUR norc bolts, with TWO digital calipers. One Norc bolt is NEW/Unfired, the other three are as new ... they range from .721" - .723" to .729" [ depending which side of the firing pin slot I measure at, the dimension changes by about .006".

My used/slightly worn H&R GI bolt is .722 -.725", again depending which side of the slot I measure at. Bolt variation WILL have an effect on trigger group functionality, which is why we always do that all important safety check after a bolt swap ... right??

Thomas has given the EXACT dimension the stock should be at for depth, top to trigger pad, and this is very important for proper trigger group function. But of course with wood stocks, this dimension can compress quite a bit under trigger guard tension, and this places the entire trigger assembly at an angle ... which changes the interfacing of the nasty gubbins inside.

Which is why we always do that all important safety check after a stock swap ... or even repainting ... right??

The rear bolt diameter, and bolt hole ID at the receiver bridge are CRITICAL for two things ... one of which is setting the bolt up perfectly square to the chamber, and the other is trigger group interaction.

Changing to a NEW GI hammer, and NEW GI trigger [ both with matching GI Pins ] is one of the things I do to my "KEEPER" Norc M-14 rifles. And, GARAND parts work here nicely. New Garand trigger bits are still available from Italy ... Breda and Berretta manufactured the M1 Garand and the Italian M-14, the BM-59, which used the Garand receiver, not the shorter M-14 receiver.

Fitting a NEW GI surplus Garand hammer and trigger are good insurance for the serious shooters, as the GI parts were held to unbelievable tolerances for dimension and hardness, and will fit up into a superior trigger pull, that will stay in spec a lot longer than the softer, rougher NORC parts.

However, good trigger jobs can be done with some of the NORC bits. But once you achieve that perfect trigger pull, the softer parts may not stay perfect for long. which is why I have lined up a shop that does electroless nickling. Electroless nickle is [ IMHO ] the best exterior finish you can apply to a firearm, especially here on the Wet Coast [ superior salt spray resistance to just about anything else ]and especially to the trigger bits [ very hard, very tough, and self lubricating ].

So,
you wanted it PERFECT in a $ 399 rifle?
welllll, sometimes you get lucky, and sometimes you don't.

Which is why we teach trigger jobs at the M-14 Wet Coast seminars.
[;{)
LAZ 1
 
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