M14S Wont Fire Reliably

Cobber

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I have a 2007 M14S i got a few years ago that was gathering dust. Last weekend, after throwing the action into a glass stock, I tried shooting it to see what I would get. I was disappointed to find it only fired about once in every 5 rounds.

I am writing this to see if anyone has had the same problem. Primers showed weak strike but the firing pin protrusion (with the bolt out of the gun) appeared visually to be alright. There is nothing to suggest a problem with the tail of the firing pin entereing the rear slot on the bolt. So what's up?

My first thought was that something was wrong with headspace but although the bolt "just" barely closes on a NO GO guage I didn't think that was a problem. I was trying a variety of reloads and using a Hormady shoulder length gauge put that issue out of the way.

Next was a problem check in the trigger assembly. Was the main spring too weak? was there something jamming up the works. No. But here is the neat thing and my particular point.

When the hammer was eased forward off the sear, It did not fall all the way forward against the front inside wall of the housing. That didn't seem right. In fact I noticed that on my trigger guard the cocking tab (what used to be a round pin on the early original M14's) was preventing the hammer from falling forward fully.

I tried to bend this tab back a bit using a heavy screwdriver but that made no difference. This is a stout and hard piece of metal.

Back home in my shop I dismantled the trigger group and pinched the trigger guard in a smooth jaw vice to try and tap the tab back. i couldn't get enough pinch on the guard to make this possible. So it is back to basics.

Using a #0 tip on my acetylene torch I gently heated the tab to dull red heat and with a pair of needle nose pliers I bent it back slightly. Note that this was done very quickly and with no discoloration of the main portion og hte guard. Let everything cool and reassembled. The eye had been good and now there was the smallest gap between the hammer in full forward position and the cocking tab. A test in the bullet trap gave 5 firings without a hitch.

So. If someone is selling you one of these rifles it is a quick and easy check for this problem. Pop out the trigger group, eas forward the hammer and make sure it comes toe a stop on the trigger housing and not on the cocking tab. If the hammer fails this test move on or start to bargain hard on the price! The guy selling it probably knows the gun wont shoot.

I'll be interested to hear if anyone else has had this problem.
 
After installing it in the new fiberglass stock did you do the trigger test after assembly.....ie : watch for the hammer following the bolt when you #### it ... ? And does it pass the test now ?
 
Further and better particulars

I should have said that the stock change was unrealted to the problem. There was no follow through of the hammer. What was happening was the hammer fall was cushioned when it hit the cocking tab before completing a full arc and that would give an incomplete strike to the firing pin. By bending the cocking tab back I got a full strike on the firing pin and proper firing.

I hate to think what vibrations were added to the mix by the hammer strike on the tab. Even a light strike that allowed a reliable primer firing would likely have all sorts of bad effects on accuracy.
 
The "cocking" tab?
Are you refering to the flange on the trigger guard that sticks into the housing?
Was yours in front of the hammer? If so, it was installed incorrectly. It should be behind the hammer.
I have never , in 100's of rifle , had to modify the chinese trigger guard or it's flange.
 
For M14 Doctor

No. The tab was not in front of the hammer. It was behind but as stamped, it prevented the hammer from travelling all the way forward. I wish I had a photo to show the hammer held back from the fully forward postion. If you have not seen this then it is obviously a rare occurence. Anyway, I thought it would be handy to have this bit of info in the back pocket so to speak in case it ever occured elsewhere.
 
I am a little confused. The rifle fired fine prior to the new stock, and after the stock it did not fire fine? The sear was always blocking the hammer or is the sear meant to stop the hammer?

In other words, were the dimensions in the new stock correct as to the placement of the trigger assembly? With the full force of the hammer smoking the firing pin assembly, is there now an opportunity for the pin to fail right at the "L" bend?

Just asking because the pin is not that beefy in regard to the full force of the hammer now striking it fully. I think you may have opened up a can of worms with that particular modification. I would have first did some measurements to ensure that the new stock was dimensioned similar to the new stock, relative to the trigger assembly before that particular little modification.
 
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