M305 trigger job information.

870supermag

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Location
Kamloops
The last few months I have slowly gone through all of my guns and cleaned them up(triggers, slides, anything rough) and had grate successes my once almost unusable 54-1 slides like butter now so I was hoping to move on to bigger and better things. I did the trigger on my 10/22 with no problems and I was hoping to do my 305 I’m not so much looking for a weight reductions as I am for a smother more consistent pull. I’ve looked online and most sites advise taking it to a smith well that’s fine and all but I want to learn it myself so if anyone has a link or can help me find the information I seek it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Sean
 
There should be a pdf on google that i believe is called The national match m14 conditioning guide.

I followed the section on trigger modification and must say it makes a huge improvement , while a pain in the ass , its worth the trouble of taking it apart and refitting and rechecking . I have some pictures of the areas but i would rather not post them because like other threads all that will result is "oh your not a professional you shouldnt be blah blah blah"
 
This will give you a slight idea of what i did to my personal firearm , i havnt removed any material just taken off the parkerizing . And the difference is night and day . Excuse the mess on the floor it was a long day .

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it's really tough to explain how to correctly do a m14 trigger job to a chinese trigger group. The hesititation is that guys like me don't want to be responsible when things go south hehehe

the number one thing i find in chinese trigger groups is that first you have to be sure the trigger itself is fully at rest. to check this, lock the hammer back and press down and release, feel drag at the sear? look at the front hammer hook area where it is engaging the sear, with the hammer locked back, push forward on the trigger and use your thumb to manipulate the hammer up and down, observing where the sear is in relation to the hammer...... do you feel it binding? this must be remedied by filing the area of the hammer from front hammer hooks up the inside of the "hammer hook wall" WITHOUT DISTURBING THE HAMMER HOOK SURFACES.. this is critical. An XXfine 1/8" tapered, triangular gun smiths file is the ONLY tool for this job..... this is not a suggestion

performing this procedure is step one in the correct trigger job. establishing a positive 1st stage that ensures the trigger itself is fully at rest prior to altering or polishing any other trigger surfaces.
DO not alter or adjust the front hammer hooks in any way other than a very light polish to remove parkerizing,
polish all bearing and contact points in this manner.
re assemble and check for gritty ness , enure positive first stage and crisp break..... and then we go the the rear hammer hooks and evenly remove minute ammounts of material, keeping the ends square and true..... with each few passes of the stone, #### the trigger and check break. ALL reduction of actual trigger pull is done at the back hooks, tips only.
reduce trigger pull to a minimum of 5 lbs with chinese parts....... and that is not a suggestion
 
Yeah in these photos this was my attempt at merely cleaning up the feel of the trigger , i did have a few burrs on one set of the hooks i believe it was the back which i lightly filed , didnt remove much if anything .

I was merely pointing out that what i did above by following the instructions i had was that i now feel a positive first stage with a clean break instead of the stock creeking then snap with no idea when the hammer was about to break . Also the change above has given the trigger a more slick feeling and doesnt feel gummy? i guess would be my description .

Do you see anything i could have done differently ?
 
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