M305 trigger

"...still shooting about 3 inches at 100m..." With what ammo? Good ammo is essential. If you're only getting 3" groups, your rifle doesn't like the ammo you're using. Change ammo.
"...simply removing the..." You'll still have a rough trigger. Your tumbler won't take parkerizing off or polish the parts properly.
 
Last edited:
sunray said:
"...still shooting about 3 inches at 100m..." With what ammo? Good ammo is essential. If you're only getting 3" groups, your rifle doesn't like the ammo you're using. Change ammo.
"...simply removing the..." You'll still have a rough trigger. Your tumbler won't take parkerizing off or polish the parts properly.
Click to expand...

south African surp. and some reload-168 gr.BT match. IMR 4895-41.5gr
may be try some commercial stuff later .
 
Last edited:
Yes but if stoning is going to remove a layer of hardened metal would the wear from the operation of the rifle not cause the same affects? Isn't the idea with stoning that you're smoothing out the operating surfaces, basicly just accellerating the wear on the parts.... that said, how much force do those parts need to withstand? We're not talking about the bolt here, that trigger/sear just holds the hammer back.... Let it also be known that when I hear stoning I'm thinking something along the lines of wet sanding/polishing, not dremeling or filing.

Don't get me wrong, I'm no gunsmith, just trying to understand. This almost sounds like the standard "Rumour" stuff flying around on CGN. It seems to rank up there with the spring wear due to leaving your mags loaded/unloaded....
 
I certainly would not recommend this as a doityourself project.
If you DON'T TAKE NO FOR AN ANSWER EASILY, and really want to try it yourself, at the least invest your time into a genuine US GI trigger and sear, and GI hammer, which will have much better metal and geometry to start with.
 
Wally no worries dude. 2 pieces of metal that are hardened to roughly the same hardness will more or less just rub on each other maybe polishing out the surface roughness a little. Thousands of rounds later it might be a little smoother, but the parts will most likely wear evenly. If you were to stone your trigger parts and remove the hardened layer of metal on one part more than the other you have a problem. One part will wear more rapidly than the other making for a dangerous trigger. So some people think that they should give both parts a good stoning to make sure they get through the hardening on both parts. Again this is not good because you are into soft metal that will wear quikly making for a bad situation again. The parts are hardened so that they last without too much wear.
Did this twist you up worse?
Dave
 
Ishootguns said:
Wally no worries dude. 2 pieces of metal that are hardened to roughly the same hardness will more or less just rub on each other maybe polishing out the surface roughness a little. Thousands of rounds later it might be a little smoother, but the parts will most likely wear evenly. If you were to stone your trigger parts and remove the hardened layer of metal on one part more than the other you have a problem. One part will wear more rapidly than the other making for a dangerous trigger. So some people think that they should give both parts a good stoning to make sure they get through the hardening on both parts. Again this is not good because you are into soft metal that will wear quikly making for a bad situation again. The parts are hardened so that they last without too much wear.
Did this twist you up worse?
Dave
Click to expand...
Nope, no confusteration, I'm learned in the ways of science :D. So these Stinker parts are just case hardened to a few thou and then parkerized?
 
OK,
and this is my final answer,
"ELECTRLESS NICKLE!!!"

Electroless nickle is slick, hard, and in a thin coat, it does not add substantialy to tolerances. Electroless Nickle also does not build up in nooks and crannies as can hard chrome, plus no Hydrogen Embrittlemnt to worry about. Electroless Nickle actually provides better corrosion resistance than most so called "Stainless" steels.

Electroless Nickle would be a good thing on the trigger bits and pieces of a Chinese M-14 that had been hand fitted to that perfect trigger pull, but which may have been cut too deep [ the soft creamy center inside the caramel bar ].

Yep,
in fact this is such a great idea, I will probably do a few M14 bits and pieces up for myself. Have to see how it works on the pistons, gas plugs, etc.

Dare we imagine it ...
a shiny PIMPED Norc M14 awaits in the future, half original Chinese black, and half shiny ...
we can call it the "M-14 Combrat Erite".

PS: I used Electroless nickle to refinish several badly beat up GI .45 frames that I bought from Lever for $ 50 bucks each, reshaped, bead blasted, and turned into cheap, durable, good looking IPSC pistolas.

Also I do have some previous experience with EN on rifle receivers, and .45 internals.
Good stuff..
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom