M305 welding gas system

Apple tree said:
im hopeless
Click to expand...

Go here and try this: https://postimages.org/

What I do is find my pics either from the camera card or in my files, then drag it onto my desktop.

I then make the Postimage page smaller by dragging the side over enough to see the pics I put on the desktop.

Then just drag the pic onto the postimage page, let it upload, then choose "hot link for forums", if memory serves me correctly.
 
IMG_1548.jpg
[/url][/IMG]

IMG_1552.jpg
[/url][/IMG]

stevebc said:
Go here and try this: https://postimages.org/

What I do is find my pics either from the camera card or in my files, then drag it onto my desktop.

I then make the Postimage page smaller by dragging the side over enough to see the pics I put on the desktop.

Then just drag the pic onto the postimage page, let it upload, then choose "hot link for forums", if memory serves me correctly.
Click to expand...

This works
 
Last edited:
Half that eh!? lol
Demonstrate to me your 3 MOA skills with any rifle and iron sights at 600 meters and I'll give you $300 cash and lick s**t off the bottom of your shoe Sir
Not even your unmodified M14. Any rifle. You can borrow a $5K Swiss target gun from a rich friend. You can even use handloads or match ammo.

Send me a PM. If you're close come on up and we can do it at my range.
I'm dead serious. You shoot 3 to 3.5 MOA at 600 meters and irons with ANY gun and ANY ammo and the cash is yours!
 
Not to start a ####storm, but despite it being more difficult to do, I prefer the glue & screw method when using GI parts.

The norc gas cylinder is cro-mo steel, but the gi cylinder is stainless. Welding the low carbon band to a stainless cylinder can go awry if the welding is not done carefully with proper pre-heat and slow cooling. Even then, there are refinishing issues as stainless won't take parkerizing.

With the glue/screwethod, you can re-park the band after machining and then do final assembly. A cleaner install that works just as well.

Also, it's important to note, the NM unitizing mods are meant to NOT use shims. So don't use shims on a unitized assembly. It will actually lessen performance. Shims are only for a non-unitized cylinder.
 
Pblatzz said:
or it can be welded..


003.jpg
Click to expand...

I came close to welding it, I do have er70-s2 as well. Its just that welding implies that you are gonna put a lot of tension and heat on the part. Brazing implies much less heat. Ill see if it holds, my guess is it will be just fine. Silicon bronze is actually pretty strong.

As stated by claven2 it will clearly not blue like steel though... Im ok with this I like the looks of bronze
 
Picked up a copy of the M14 owners guide and match conditioning instructions manual, by Scott A. Duff and John M. Miller.
I highly recommend it, and it covers unitizing the gas system. They use the screw method in this book.
 
tula said:
Picked up a copy of the M14 owners guide and match conditioning instructions manual, by Scott A. Duff and John M. Miller.
I highly recommend it, and it covers unitizing the gas system. They use the screw method in this book.
Click to expand...

match conditioning instructions manual?
 
Man you guys read way too much into this stuff....
Just have a welder buddy put 3 tiny spot welds on it at 10, 2 and 6 o clock positions.
3 small spot welds as small as possible. If you are in Alberta you can flag a guy down in a Tim Hortons parking lot and give him $20 to get her done lol
I had an army mattt tech hit mine and it worked fine.
Guys making it sound like it's alchemy black magic or something.
 
Travis Bickle said:
Man you guys read way too much into this stuff....
Just have a welder buddy put 3 tiny spot welds on it at 10, 2 and 6 o clock positions.
3 small spot welds as small as possible. If you are in Alberta you can flag a guy down in a Tim Hortons parking lot and give him $20 to get her done lol
I had an army mattt tech hit mine and it worked fine.
Guys making it sound like it's alchemy black magic or something.
Click to expand...

ACTUALLY... it is NOT as simple as you state to follow the NM specification, even the ARMY method has more to it than you are stating.

For example, the spec calls for the band opening around the cylinder tail to be overground to 20 thou greater diameter. Also, if the stock is already bedded, the band needs to be positioned to provide even vertical pressure on the tip of the stock ferrule. This means that not every gun should be set up with the band perfectly vertically centered. the base of the band needs to apply even contact to the ferrule. Also, the handguard tabs are meant to be re-shaped so the handguard cannot contact the top of the stock.

I would NOT just hand it to a welder and be done with it. The job should be done with the rifle treated as a whole to achieve a specific effect when done. Unless you are just trying to get a tick in the box to say it's unitized. Personally, I would rather the rifle also shoot better for your trouble.
 
:D I was waiting on you Claven to say something lol! Seriously though Clavens 100% right it’s not as simple as you say. I come from a precision rifle background, and just grabbing a rem700 off the shelf, and slapping it in a bedded stock doesn’t cure your accuracy issues. Getting the most out of your platform of choice isn’t simple at all.

QUOTE=Claven2;14690884]ACTUALLY... it is NOT as simple as you state to follow the NM specification, even the ARMY method has more to it than you are stating.

For example, the spec calls for the band opening around the cylinder tail to be overground to 20 thou greater diameter. Also, if the stock is already bedded, the band needs to be positioned to provide even vertical pressure on the tip of the stock ferrule. This means that not every gun should be set up with the band perfectly vertically centered. the base of the band needs to apply even contact to the ferrule. Also, the handguard tabs are meant to be re-shaped so the handguard cannot contact the top of the stock.

I would NOT just hand it to a welder and be done with it. The job should be done with the rifle treated as a whole to achieve a specific effect when done. Unless you are just trying to get a tick in the box to say it's unitized. Personally, I would rather the rifle also shoot better for your trouble.[/QUOTE]
 
Claven2 said:
ACTUALLY... it is NOT as simple as you state to follow the NM specification, even the ARMY method has more to it than you are stating.

For example, the spec calls for the band opening around the cylinder tail to be overground to 20 thou greater diameter. Also, if the stock is already bedded, the band needs to be positioned to provide even vertical pressure on the tip of the stock ferrule. This means that not every gun should be set up with the band perfectly vertically centered. the base of the band needs to apply even contact to the ferrule. Also, the handguard tabs are meant to be re-shaped so the handguard cannot contact the top of the stock.

I would NOT just hand it to a welder and be done with it. The job should be done with the rifle treated as a whole to achieve a specific effect when done. Unless you are just trying to get a tick in the box to say it's unitized. Personally, I would rather the rifle also shoot better for your trouble.
Click to expand...

For your average Joe out there, just trying to make his cheap sloppy ass M14 a little bit tighter it sure is.
It worked for mine great.
Unitizing on its own will not make much difference anyway. Neither will any of the "accurizing" tricks on their own or even half of them. Unless you do every one of them AND bed the action you aren't going to see much improvement.
I went full retard on mine including bedding the action properly, making sure the clearance on the handguards was true (you don't have to bend the tabs, you can just hard sand the handguard down until it clears contact with the wood which is what I did), opened up the stock ferrule to negate contact with gas cylinder, unitized the gas system, shimmed the gas system, ensured clearance between the face of the ferrule and gas system plate, ensured proper upward tension on the barrel during glass bedding cure, cut the liner profile to allow clearance for bedding material, independently epoxied the liner into the rifle, carved channels in the stock running behind the liner to the bottom of the stock so bedding agent fills the void and the trigger group compresses it as one solid unit yadda yadda and THAT is when I saw tangible accuracy gains.

And yeah I did just have a welder buddy do 3 spot welds on my cheap ass sloppy Chinese rifle and it did work perfectly at 10, 2 and 6 o'clock.
Man you guys live high up in the clouds some days, I guess if you spend months reading books you have to justify the time burned by demonstrating your memorized knowledge some how right? lol
OP it's not neuro surgery. It's also not anywhere near as convoluted as some are making it seem. Take it for what it's worth anyway.
I shrank my 10 shot groups by 50% doing all of this myself with basic knowledge from reading on m14forum.com Total cost was next to nothing.
If you're going to compete in National Rifle Competitions against the US Marine Corps, you better sell a kidney if you're even going to attempt to achieve what these guys are repeating from books they read.
The only guys you are going to find that could tune an M14 to any of the specs these guys are spouting about from books they read, are 25 year US Armourers who have been tuning them the duration of their career.
Or you can drastically improve your cheap sloppy rifle for almost no cost, reading info on the net and putting some time into it.
 
Last edited:
Travis Bickle said:
For your average Joe out there, just trying to make his cheap sloppy ass M14 a little bit tighter it sure is.
It worked for mine great.
Unitizing on its own will not make much difference anyway. Neither will any of the "accurizing" tricks on their own or even half of them. Unless you do every one of them AND bed the action you aren't going to see much improvement.
I went full retard on mine including bedding the action properly, making sure the clearance on the handguards was true (you don't have to bend the tabs, you can just hard sand the handguard down until it clears contact with the wood which is what I did), opened up the stock ferrule to negate contact with gas cylinder, unitized the gas system, shimmed the gas system, ensured clearance between the face of the ferrule and gas system plate, ensured proper upward tension on the barrel during glass bedding cure, cut the liner profile to allow clearance for bedding material, independently epoxied the liner into the rifle, carved channels in the stock running behind the liner to the bottom of the stock so bedding agent fills the void and the trigger group compresses it as one solid unit yadda yadda and THAT is when I saw tangible accuracy gains.

And yeah I did just have a welder buddy do 3 spot welds on my cheap ass sloppy Chinese rifle and it did work perfectly at 10, 2 and 6 o'clock.
Man you guys live high up in the clouds some days, I guess if you spend months reading books you have to justify the time burned by demonstrating your memorized knowledge some how right? lol
OP it's not neuro surgery. It's also not anywhere near as convoluted as some are making it seem. Take it for what it's worth anyway.
I shrank my 10 shot groups by 50% doing all of this myself with basic knowledge from reading on m14forum.com Total cost was next to nothing.
If you're going to compete in National Rifle Competitions against the US Marine Corps, you better sell a kidney if you're even going to attempt to achieve what these guys are repeating from books they read.
The only guys you are going to find that could tune an M14 to any of the specs these guys are spouting about from books they read, are 25 year US Armourers who have been tuning them the duration of their career.
Or you can drastically improve your cheap sloppy rifle for almost no cost, reading info on the net and putting some time into it.
Click to expand...

LMFAO. The only response I could think of.

Who needs gunsmiths and skill anyhow? Basement work is always just as good. The NM specs are just for #whiners.
 
Travis Bickle said:
For your average Joe out there, just trying to make his cheap sloppy ass M14 a little bit tighter it sure is.
It worked for mine great.
Unitizing on its own will not make much difference anyway. Neither will any of the "accurizing" tricks on their own or even half of them. Unless you do every one of them AND bed the action you aren't going to see much improvement.
I went full retard on mine including bedding the action properly, making sure the clearance on the handguards was true (you don't have to bend the tabs, you can just hard sand the handguard down until it clears contact with the wood which is what I did), opened up the stock ferrule to negate contact with gas cylinder, unitized the gas system, shimmed the gas system, ensured clearance between the face of the ferrule and gas system plate, ensured proper upward tension on the barrel during glass bedding cure, cut the liner profile to allow clearance for bedding material, independently epoxied the liner into the rifle, carved channels in the stock running behind the liner to the bottom of the stock so bedding agent fills the void and the trigger group compresses it as one solid unit yadda yadda and THAT is when I saw tangible accuracy gains.

And yeah I did just have a welder buddy do 3 spot welds on my cheap ass sloppy Chinese rifle and it did work perfectly at 10, 2 and 6 o'clock.
Man you guys live high up in the clouds some days, I guess if you spend months reading books you have to justify the time burned by demonstrating your memorized knowledge some how right? lol
OP it's not neuro surgery. It's also not anywhere near as convoluted as some are making it seem. Take it for what it's worth anyway.
I shrank my 10 shot groups by 50% doing all of this myself with basic knowledge from reading on m14forum.com Total cost was next to nothing.
If you're going to compete in National Rifle Competitions against the US Marine Corps, you better sell a kidney if you're even going to attempt to achieve what these guys are repeating from books they read.
The only guys you are going to find that could tune an M14 to any of the specs these guys are spouting about from books they read, are 25 year US Armourers who have been tuning them the duration of their career.
Or you can drastically improve your cheap sloppy rifle for almost no cost, reading info on the net and putting some time into it.
Click to expand...

Ill end up doing it myself anyway, sinking 1000's on a rifle when I could be spending that on ammo is not where I want to go. Given the choice I would rather know all the parameters before doing the work though... my big clumpy hands are enough of a liability as is.
 
Apple tree said:
Ill end up doing it myself anyway, sinking 1000's on a rifle when I could be spending that on ammo is not where I want to go. Given the choice I would rather know all the parameters before doing the work though... my big clumpy hands are enough of a liability as is.
Click to expand...

That's the way to go with these rifles.
That's what 95% of all people who own these rifles in this country do Sir.
That's what I did with two of mine over the years and they both turned out very solid rifles with impressive accuracy for a $500 gun.
Go to M14forum.com It's a holy grail of info on how to home tune your rifle and save a hell of a lot of money in the mean time. There's some solid stickies on this forum as well at the top of the main battle rifle section.
The arrogance of some of the members posting on here should be pretty telling. Join the M14forum.com for any practical advice/guidance on the subject. There's more than one way skin a cat. You can get very impressive results doing it on your own and not dropping thousands of dollars at a gun smith and waiting 2 years for it to come back complete.
Nothing you are going to do to your rifle involves any machining, modification of any of the critical components creating potential danger. It's all rudimentary tinkering and it really does not need to be done to the specs some of these guys are advocating to still get very tangible results.
If you're in Alberta I can give you a hand or help you out if you require it man.
Enjoy working on it. It's almost as much fun as shooting it I found.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom