M39 picure thread!!!
- Thread starter Claven2
- Start date
I retook an M39 family photo. Still not the best picture as I got lazy and used an iPhone 6 for a camera 
I need to dig out one of my nicer cameras and do a better job with the lighting.
Top to bottom:
1) 1968 "no maker" (some people say "sneak). Unissued.
2) 1941 Sako straight stock variant. Definitely issued. It's been there, done that.
3) 1942 VKT. Possibly unissued, or if issued, it was not used much.
None of these are refurbs - just the way I like it.
I need to dig out one of my nicer cameras and do a better job with the lighting.Top to bottom:
1) 1968 "no maker" (some people say "sneak). Unissued.
2) 1941 Sako straight stock variant. Definitely issued. It's been there, done that.
3) 1942 VKT. Possibly unissued, or if issued, it was not used much.
None of these are refurbs - just the way I like it.
I retook an M39 family photo. Still not the best picture as I got lazy and used an iPhone 6 for a camera
Top to bottom:
1) 1968 "no maker" (some people say "sneak). Unissued.
2) 1941 Sako straight stock variant. Definitely issued. It's been there, done that.
3) 1942 VKT. Possibly unissued, or if issued, it was not used much.
None of these are refurbs - just the way I like it.
Which one do you like to shoot most?
I've only ever shot the 41 Sako, truth be told. I'll remedy that soon. The mosin I shoot the most is a real 43 Tula PU I own because I like using optics.
As an aside, all my M39's have the 2 stage trigger features and the HV magazines (though none are HV marked). non-refurb M39's should have both those features. Refurbs will sometimes have other parts substituted.
Another point - when people get their Tradex rifles, wartime rifles will usually have either tight temperature wheel bearing grease (black with metallic flecks in it) or regular yellowy grease all over the barrelled action beneath the wood line. This is nasty, messy stuff. The jury is out whether you should remove it or not, but the purpose was clear - to prevent metal pitting below the wood line.
Personally, I always remove it from my Finns to make the rifle cleaner to handle and to prevent it running out in the heat. Some people consider this sacrilege, but realistically you can buy the same grease at Canadian tire and brush it back on at any time. It's just standard grease from the hardware store.
The black darker grease can be a real mess to remove and an even bigger mess if you leave it on while disassembling the gun for inspection and cleaning. Be warned.
I spoke to Tradex and the story behind their M39's is an interesting one. I am sure most collectors have figured out where Tradex sourced their rifles, but they actually went to the supplier and hand picked the rifles and checked the bores. What an interesting job tasking.
Yes that is true. I was at tradex on other business the day after Anthony left to go do this and discussed this import with the staff. I was literally watching for them to turn up as I knew Anthony was brining back the best of whatever was left of the pat burns hoard.
We got a better batch than the yanks are getting (for a change), but getting better rifles comes at a cost. We are paying about double what Americans are paying for the lesser examples. I'm fine with that.
We are paying a premium, but really not that bad. If purchasing a $400 'select' rifle yourself direct from the source your are still paying $500 CDN for the rifle. Then with your import costs and taxes and you are close to $700 CDN and you get an un-seen rifle and hope for the best.
I like TradeEx and I'm excited about my rifle.
Nice! Did P&S have that SkY? I'm still upset I sold mine long ago
By the way, the rear band is on backwards. When these were in the Pat Burns warehouse, a lot of them were disassembled to look for pre-97 receiver tang dates so they could sell the stateside without and FFL. Sometimes parts like that were re-insalled incorrectly.
By the way, the rear band is on backwards. When these were in the Pat Burns warehouse, a lot of them were disassembled to look for pre-97 receiver tang dates so they could sell the stateside without and FFL. Sometimes parts like that were re-insalled incorrectly.
How did you find out about it? It doesn't look to have shown up on Jean's website (?)
Oh? I thought all m39s do have a two stages trigger, that is not true right? I shoot 1948 mosin nagant M44 the most with the fire ball haha.
" barrelled action beneath the wood line" Where is this?
Once the rifle is received how would you handle it in a step by step process in terms of cleaning and disassembly (yes new to milsurp)
Two answers:
1) Most M39's would have come new with 2-stage triggers and HV style magazines, but there was a war on, and some got what was on hand. Also, many M39's have been through repair or refurbishment at the depot or factory level and parts got swapped around to repair guns. 2 stage triggers were not always put back in - they got guns out the door with the parts they had. I've seen M39's without HV mags as well.
2) to disassemble an M39:
- remove cleaning rod
- remove front band by unscrewing the 2 screws. The screw holding the TOP of the band down is captive - it does not come out of the band.
- remove the rear band screw then the band itself.
- Take off the hand guard. Be careful here as the barrelled action will have one of 2 types of grease on it and it can get very messy. Some "sneak" rifles will have a lacquer on the metal instead of grease, which can be left alone and is not messy.
- remove the bolt and set it aside. There are lots of internet tutorial on bolt disassembly. I like this one because I wrote it. http://www.milsurps.com/content.php?r=257-Mosin-Nagant-Bolt-Disassembly-Reassembly-Tutorial Once the bolt is disassembled, I clean it with acetone or furniture stripper and a toothbrush, then wipe it clean with a rag. Oil and re-assemble.
- Opening the little latch on the bottom of the mag, let the floor plate hinge open. Compress the magazine follower against the floor plate and with the assembly fully hinged open, it should lift out of the mag well and off the pin it rotates on.
- Take the action screws out. One is at the front of the mag, the other is at the tang. Be careful here - you don;t want either the action or magazine to fall out of the stock onto the floor.
- Set the gun on a flat surface with the action and rear sight pointing down and resting on the surface. Lift the stock up off the action. a small block of steel will also fall out of the gun - this is the nut the cleaning rod screws into. Set it aside and don't forget to put it back in the stock before you re-assemble the gun.
- Now take the mag body out of the stock.
- There might be shims in the stock. Love them be. If any of them fall out cleaning, note where they were and pt them back in the same place. These were carefully placed to make the gun more accurate.
This is as far as you really "need" to take the gun apart to clean it. I will also disassemble the trigger and sear and the cartridge interruptor to clean them thoroughly, but that's because I'm anal. If you use WD40 and a toothbrush, you can clean them without removing them pretty well. Dry with a rag and oil.
Again, it' optional whether you clean off the grease on the parts that are usually hidden by the stock or not. I remove it, others do not. There's no "right" answer.
Hope that helps.
1) Most M39's would have come new with 2-stage triggers and HV style magazines, but there was a war on, and some got what was on hand. Also, many M39's have been through repair or refurbishment at the depot or factory level and parts got swapped around to repair guns. 2 stage triggers were not always put back in - they got guns out the door with the parts they had. I've seen M39's without HV mags as well.
2) to disassemble an M39:
- remove cleaning rod
- remove front band by unscrewing the 2 screws. The screw holding the TOP of the band down is captive - it does not come out of the band.
- remove the rear band screw then the band itself.
- Take off the hand guard. Be careful here as the barrelled action will have one of 2 types of grease on it and it can get very messy. Some "sneak" rifles will have a lacquer on the metal instead of grease, which can be left alone and is not messy.
- remove the bolt and set it aside. There are lots of internet tutorial on bolt disassembly. I like this one because I wrote it. http://www.milsurps.com/content.php?r=257-Mosin-Nagant-Bolt-Disassembly-Reassembly-Tutorial Once the bolt is disassembled, I clean it with acetone or furniture stripper and a toothbrush, then wipe it clean with a rag. Oil and re-assemble.
- Opening the little latch on the bottom of the mag, let the floor plate hinge open. Compress the magazine follower against the floor plate and with the assembly fully hinged open, it should lift out of the mag well and off the pin it rotates on.
- Take the action screws out. One is at the front of the mag, the other is at the tang. Be careful here - you don;t want either the action or magazine to fall out of the stock onto the floor.
- Set the gun on a flat surface with the action and rear sight pointing down and resting on the surface. Lift the stock up off the action. a small block of steel will also fall out of the gun - this is the nut the cleaning rod screws into. Set it aside and don't forget to put it back in the stock before you re-assemble the gun.
- Now take the mag body out of the stock.
- There might be shims in the stock. Love them be. If any of them fall out cleaning, note where they were and pt them back in the same place. These were carefully placed to make the gun more accurate.
This is as far as you really "need" to take the gun apart to clean it. I will also disassemble the trigger and sear and the cartridge interruptor to clean them thoroughly, but that's because I'm anal. If you use WD40 and a toothbrush, you can clean them without removing them pretty well. Dry with a rag and oil.
Again, it' optional whether you clean off the grease on the parts that are usually hidden by the stock or not. I remove it, others do not. There's no "right" answer.
Hope that helps.
Good to know, thanks! Mine should be here Mon or Tue.
Thanks for the detailed answer. So you like to use acetone and furniture stripper eh? Would you advice against throwing all the metal parts into a tub of hot water?
This one arrived this morning from TradeEx.
1941 VKT
Built on a 1900 Sestroryestk receiver, all other parts appear to be Ishvesk with the exception of the trigger and bolt handle which are Tula. The SA mark is on the side of barrel along with a 36VKT00 marking just below it.
1941 VKT
Built on a 1900 Sestroryestk receiver, all other parts appear to be Ishvesk with the exception of the trigger and bolt handle which are Tula. The SA mark is on the side of barrel along with a 36VKT00 marking just below it.
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