M96 Mauser Bedding

Jordan Weber

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Location
Elmira Ontario
Hey all,

Was hoping for some guidance on bedding the stock on my mauser swede. I bought it several months ago from tradex and as of right now Im not seeing any cracks or serious blemishes in the wood. Im thinking it may be a good candidate for a refinish, but I want to make sure that it won't end up splitting at the tang as they are prone to do. Plus I am hoping to improve the accuracy just a little. I feel I should be able to do better than 2" groups since the bore looks really good.

Was hoping that someone would be willing to give me some wisdom, or even better a step by step, as to how one would go about bedding this rifle. Are pillars possible/ necessary with the action and floor-plate design? I have done some google research, but unfortunately it has created more questions than answers.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks
 
Go to gswagner.com Look under "Things to do with a Turk Mauser". Step by step of his bedding process, pillars, etc. Would be the same for your Swede. For mausers,you want to see 1/32" or so space behind the tang. Since front action screw goes into center of recoil lug, you want support in the stock both fore and aft of that point. You want rear of recoil lug tight to bedding. You want sides, bottom and front of recoil lug to have some space - thickness of masking tape seems to be enough - facilitates inserting and removing action. At front, I like to bed first inch or so of barrel, back to magazine opening. At rear, I like to bed the "shoulders" directly under the rear bridge. Mauser action is easy to bend by torquing action screws onto uneven bedding - generally, I bed trigger guard first, then use bedding screws on action and just lower it into place - use surgical tubing / electrical tape to settle it into place without bending or twisting the action. AND USE LOTS OF GOOD RELEASE AGENT ON METAL PARTS YOU DO NOT WANT STUCK TO THE STOCK!!
 
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