M98 vs Husqvarna 1600?

Personally, I like both equally. I intensively use the 1640/1600 since over 30 years and never broke an ejector blade, spring or screw nor did I ever broke an extractor. I know many did, but it never happened to me.
I really like the 98 too and also use it a lot and I agree that for most people, it's easier finding stocks and spare parts for a '98 than any other action (Remmies excepted). Even if the original design when well executed is almost perfect, some commercial post WWII M98 production is made of modern steel alloys which makes it almost undestructible.
 
I'm currently rebarreling and restocking an HVA Commercial FN98 in 30'06 over to 9.3x62. I find anything that has gone through Swede hands has been tuned and smoothed out already for the most part, very little left to do on these actions. The only ones that do a slightly better job with 98's are the Danes....I have 4 of their wartime built German captured 98's in 6.5x55 that are the smoothest feeding and ejecting 98 actions I've ever owned.
 
If you are going to use the 1600, I personally prefer the earlier steel bottom metal over the later aluminum ones. The inletting in the stock is also different for both, the steel one being the standard 98 inlet.
As for the 1600 being trouble free, I have seen one where the receiver ring shattered from being too brittle. I think it was done when removing the barrel.
 
As far as I can remember, the only 20th century Husqvarna rifle I never had was a 220 Swift.

The rarest one was an engraved Presentation Grade 358 Norma Mag, and I won't tell you what rifles I got in trade for that one. ;)

Ted
 
Why not? said:
As far as I can remember, the only 20th century Husqvarna rifle I never had was a 220 Swift.

The rarest one was an engraved Presentation Grade 358 Norma Mag, and I won't tell you what rifles I got in trade for that one. ;)

Ted
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Most of the known 1651 chambered for the .308 NM are in fact rechambering from the .308 Win. The font used after .308 is usually not the one HVA used as a standard.
The ones proved true were likely made with 1900 barrels.
 
Thanks for the input.

I think ill go with a FN98 action. why mess with a classic I suppose. Now another question, who would people recommend for a smith for a build? I will probably supply most of the parts but will need someone who knows the 98 action well to put it together, make it shoot and make it look pretty. Probably have a stock made as well.

Not going to be cheap but I figure its something I will have for the rest of my life.
 
If you want an exceptional Mauser sporter, loosen up your wallet and have Ralf Martini of Cranbrook, B.C. build it. I think he would build the nicest one. Ralf's rifles not only look very nice, they work as good as they look.
 
Retired though. In addition, I was/am a good technician, a competent tradesman and am moderately intelligent while Ralf is a true artisan. His stocks come out looking like I wanted mine to look. His stocks are to be admired while I have always been happy enough if mine didn't stimulate the gag reflex.
 
LeeEnfieldNo.4_mk1 said:
Thanks for the input.

I think ill go with a FN98 action. why mess with a classic I suppose. Now another question, who would people recommend for a smith for a build? I will probably supply most of the parts but will need someone who knows the 98 action well to put it together, make it shoot and make it look pretty. Probably have a stock made as well.

Not going to be cheap but I figure its something I will have for the rest of my life.
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I strongly recommend Tradex. There are some amazing finds for under $500 that you can save your $$ on the initial build and put it against quality optics and restocking options.
 
Hitzy said:
1600 is cleaner looking for a build, aftermarket '98 Timney triggers fit it fine, you just need the one with a safety built in. Stocks will be an issue for the 1600.
As mentioned, '98 will have more options and be easier to piece together.
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Most small ring Mauser stocks should work or would need some minor work and bedding but you would want to bed it anyway. (Though I know the1600 is bedded in a particular way - I remember my gunsmith telling me what he did to my HVA...)
 
Ltbull01 said:
Most small ring Mauser stocks should work or would need some minor work and bedding but you would want to bed it anyway. (Though I know the1600 is bedded in a particular way - I remember my gunsmith telling me what he did to my HVA...)
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The Small Ring Mauser 94/96/38 actions have a (action screw) bolt pattern of 8.5" when the 1600 have the same as the '98, means 8.75"
As for bedding, the 1600 is just another Mauser, so nothing more to do than you would for any Mauser action.
 
Everyone and his dog has a M98, the Husqvarna 1600 has way more "cool" built in - at least to us real gunnutz. Like a Jaguar in a parking lot full of Chevys.
 
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