Machining your own RCBS/Lyman style Lubesizer Dies

Brassman66

Brassman66

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I am planing to make a bunch myself because I just don't see me paying $ 50.** or more for Factory stuff made I possible can do better.

Just wondering If any of you has done some and what changes you would incorporate to make a better one. For example having the Grease holes staggered so every level on the Lubesizer Die has a lube hole lining up with each Grease grove on the Bullet.

Thanks in advance for your suggestions and advise !

Cheers
 
hi, made several, the lube holes I drilled 1/4 dia, it was quicker and worked better to evenly spread lube, I made bore a few though undersize and polished them to size with fine emery cloth wrapped around a widen dowel
 
Here's my thoughts.

Make a couple of each size, drill the holes for the grease grooves of the particular bullet you are sizing, use it only for that one. No mucking about with trying to block off holes, etc.

Make a foot or so length of bar into blanks with a pilot bore in them. When you need or want a different size, dead easy to center up a blank in the lathe and bore it out, ream it, or otherwise open it up to match what you want. No stress if you overshoot, either, as they can go back into the box for when you need a bigger one. If you bore the hole after drilling, but before removing it from the bar, the inside and outside will be concentric, and it will be that much easier to center in a four jaw, if you really want it accurately done.

If you are going to drill a bunch of grease holes, get a bulk box of short set screws in some convenient size and tap the holes so you can use set screws to block them. Any industrial supply or nut and bolt house will have the set screws, usually in a box of a hundred, for less than buying a half dozen individually. Shop around!

If taping those holes, avoid 6-32 taps, as a size choice. Largest tooth to core diameter ratio of any of the taps, making it one of the easiest to break.

Cheers
Trev
 
I have built a couple just using mild steel and they seem to work just fine. The better quality of steel you use, it will be easier to get a very fine finish polish on tho.

I drill as close as I can to finish size and then use a small "made for the purpose" boring bar to cut to desired size in the lathe. I've been luck and both came out to exactly the dia I wanted (.311, .314) on the first attempt, both produce sized bullets that are very round , smooth and exactly the desired size. all I use in the boring bar is a small very sharp piece of HSS and very slow fine cuts. so far I haven't had to emery cloth or crocus cloth to finish.

Both of these sizers are for "dry sizing " PC'd boolits so no lube holes required.
 
fingers284 said:
I have built a couple just using mild steel and they seem to work just fine. The better quality of steel you use, it will be easier to get a very fine finish polish on tho.

I drill as close as I can to finish size and then use a small "made for the purpose" boring bar to cut to desired size in the lathe. I've been luck and both came out to exactly the dia I wanted (.311, .314) on the first attempt, both produce sized bullets that are very round , smooth and exactly the desired size. all I use in the boring bar is a small very sharp piece of HSS and very slow fine cuts. so far I haven't had to emery cloth or crocus cloth to finish.

Both of these sizers are for "dry sizing " PC'd boolits so no lube holes required.
Click to expand...

I don't have a Boring Bar small enough but I have a cheap set of adjustable Reamers from Grizzly Tools, smallest one starts at .250 and may work will see.
 
I didn't have a bar small enough neither when I started so just reduced a 3/8 one down to .275. Very light cuts have to be used with the reduced bar as anything else will cause deflection/spring that will not allow any accuracy at all. Even with the adjustable reamers I think you will need a boring bar to get real close to finish dia. Me and those adjustable reamers have never gotten along very well LOL.
 
fingers284 said:
I didn't have a bar small enough neither when I started so just reduced a 3/8 one down to .275. Very light cuts have to be used with the reduced bar as anything else will cause deflection/spring that will not allow any accuracy at all. Even with the adjustable reamers I think you will need a boring bar to get real close to finish dia. Me and those adjustable reamers have never gotten along very well LOL.
Click to expand...

I hear you and getting the feeling that won't be much Fun for this Hobby Machinist. Will see how it goes first by drilling then again by drilling with my high quality "made in Tibet" finishing getting very close Drill bits and finally the premium quality made in Pakistan adjustable Reamer.

If all this fails I try your Boring Bar suggestion unless I get into the US prior, cave in and purchase the Lyman Lubesizers in the sizes I still like to have.

Thanks to you and the others for your input!

Cheers
 
The latest generation Lyman dies are pretty darn good. They used to make a series of grease holes that ran down the side - about 4 rows of them I think. Back in the day everyone plugged off everything except the top level because it caused problems and eventually Lyman started making their dies like that, too.

One improvement I would try would be to taper or radius the bore at the top end a bit more. The old dies didn't have any radius, the newer ones have a bit and work much better. It would be interesting to see if more taper would be better yet.
 
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