Magnum Rounds Expand Too Fast

Unfortunately your probably right there. It wouldn't be so bad if I could just get 5 rounds of a few expensive loads to test instead of spending a ton on a full box just to test.

Premium ammo is expensive but how much would you hate if that moose got up and ran off when you were half-way to it? What sort of value do you place on getting clean kills, recovering the animal, and having a freezer full of meat?

Besides, chances are low that premium ammo WONT shoot well in your gun. There is certainly a chance, but in my experience the good stuff will shoot as good if not better than the cheap stuff.


I cringed at that price man, if I didn't shoot for fun too it wouldn't be so bad, but that's a lot.

If you shoot for fun and go through more than a box or two of ammo in a year you should really look into getting into reloading. A Lee Hand Press, a used scale, and a set of used dies can be had for pretty darn cheap, I bet I only paid about $100 for the three; from there you just need components and maybe a few small things like a powder funnel and some case lube.
 
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Expansion is determined by bullet construction, impact velocity and shot placement.

If you don't want a bullet to expand as much and you are using factory ammo then you need to use a bonded or monometal bullet.

Premium ammunition is cheap compared to the cost of a hunting trip, but hunters always seem to complain about the cost of ammo.

I actually consider the cost of the hunt to be rather cheap, people have shot moose still inside the town limits on the first day of the season. Spending $100 on 20 rounds is extreme when I might take it to the range and find it won't shoot that round accurately.
 
bullet construction velocity and placement

Now, as you are using factory fodder, and the budget is limited, one way to reduce velocity is to go with a heavier bullet. Can you find a 220?

Bullet placement. If you shot for the lungs, it's likely you wouldn't even find the bullet, and the meat wasted would not be an issue, nor would the expansion.
I asked for 200 or 220 when I bought it but all they had was 180, I'd actually prefer the heavier bullet, but I can't seem to find it.
 
Yep, and both are also non-bonded copper jacketed lead bullets, which are notorious for expanding too fast, to the point of near-explosion, when pushed fast or when sent into heavy bone or muscle.

Switch to a good controlled expanding bullet and you'll be fine.
So in other words, my 6.5x55 with federal fusions is a better match than 300wsm with power Shok
 
The Federal Fusion bullets are plated bullets, a lead core with a thick copper plated jacket, which bonds the jacket to the core. They are pretty soft bullets that will expand rapidly but will retain more weight. I'd still pick the .300WSM over the Swede with your selection of bullets.
 
So in other words, my 6.5x55 with federal fusions is a better match than 300wsm with power Shok

The lower velocity of the 6.5 will help with keeping expansion down, but the fusion isn't going to do much better on a shot to the front shoulder. Heavy bone requires a bullet designed for such things, and neither of the two you list are designed for it.
 
Yes, the Federal Fusion isn't great from my experiences with it. Better than a regular cup and core but not nearly as good as a mono. For penetration any way.

As many have said, use cheap ammo for practice and fun, premium for hunting. Spend the money and do yourself and the animal a favor.
 
Don’t let that one experience turn you off, $hit happens, pick your shot better next time. A moose leg bone is hard target to penetrate. Happened to me twice so far. Once with my .300WSM and a 175gr Barnes LRX, after penetrating the vitals, the bullet smashed the off side leg bone and came to a stop on the hide. Second time with my .375 Ruger and 250gr TTSX, bullet smashed the onside shoulder knuckle before going through the vitals and stopping against the hide.

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I think you have your answer

premium bullets. I use Nosler Accubonds in my 300WM and have been impressed with the terminal effects.

yes they cost more but then once you are set up your only shooting a few rounds a year. Use your 6.5x55 for practice.
 
I think you have your answer

premium bullets. I use Nosler Accubonds in my 300WM and have been impressed with the terminal effects.

yes they cost more but then once you are set up your only shooting a few rounds a year. Use your 6.5x55 for practice.


I didn't buy a $1200 gun+scope combo just to shoot once or twice every other year is my problem. I want to shoot it at the range a bit too, and with premium ammo, like nosler, thats a bit too expensive.

The Swedish mauser is a fun gun at the range, but I like to carry it when im walking the tight trails, no scope, perfect for close range. Actually, on that note, my 300 is my only large gun with a scope.
 
Don’t let that one experience turn you off, $hit happens, pick your shot better next time. A moose leg bone is hard target to penetrate. Happened to me twice so far. Once with my .300WSM and a 175gr Barnes LRX, after penetrating the vitals, the bullet smashed the off side leg bone and came to a stop on the hide. Second time with my .375 Ruger and 250gr TTSX, bullet smashed the onside shoulder knuckle before going through the vitals and stopping against the hide.

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See thats what i like to hear, go through the vitals and still enough energy to smash the leg, and go through the leg and still go through the vitals. Thats what I want while still being able to afford to shoot.
 
The Federal Fusion bullets are plated bullets, a lead core with a thick copper plated jacket, which bonds the jacket to the core. They are pretty soft bullets that will expand rapidly but will retain more weight. I'd still pick the .300WSM over the Swede with your selection of bullets.

dont knock the mauser man, when people found out i got my hands on one they where offering me 2-300 more than I paid because they are such good moose guns.
 
dont knock the mauser man, when people found out i got my hands on one they where offering me 2-300 more than I paid because they are such good moose guns.

Trust me, I'm not knocking it down, I have two myself, my first hunting rifle I bought 30 years ago was a surplus m38 6.5x55 and I now have a stainless Tikka T3X. I love the 6.5x55 but its my deer rifle. For moose I use my .300WSM, my .35 Whelen or my .375 Ruger with Barnes bullets specifically for instance where I may encounter heavy bones.
 
I didn't buy a $1200 gun+scope combo just to shoot once or twice every other year is my problem. I want to shoot it at the range a bit too, and with premium ammo, like nosler, thats a bit too expensive.

The Swedish mauser is a fun gun at the range, but I like to carry it when im walking the tight trails, no scope, perfect for close range. Actually, on that note, my 300 is my only large gun with a scope.

You practice and shoot at the range with similar weight cheap bullets. You note the different impact points between those and the premium bullets (once you have worked up a load for them), and adjust accordingly. - dan
 
I was considering that, but finding that premium round that works good in my gun is an expensive process.

have you tried the federal premium factory loads with the nosler partition?
My ruger m77 mkII 7mm rem mag shoots the partition and accubond bullets extremely well and both are known moose killers.
 
have you tried the federal premium factory loads with the nosler partition?
My ruger m77 mkII 7mm rem mag shoots the partition and accubond bullets extremely well and both are known moose killers.


I never seen them before, just looked for it on my local supplier, I see federal loaded with accubond, out of stock, but that is probably better than what I currently got, and surprisingly only a little more than the federal I use now.
 
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