Magnums

I'm burning 115 grains of powder in my 378 per shot, and I wouldn't have it any other way :D :D

Also, my 'non-magnum' 45-70 burns 60+ grains of powder, in contrast to the 75-ish that the 458 burns. the increase in powder consumption isn't really that significant a factor
 
I vote 338 win mag. I own a BAR and love it. you can load up a "light" 180gr bullet or a 200 or 225 or 250 or bigger. The problem is though, big bullet, big hole. I shot a muley last year with a 225gr and it went through and through both shoulders. So meat loss was probably about 5lbs, according to the butcher. But I know that with a properly placed shot out to 300m anything that I shoot will drop dang near on the spot. But like said earlier, a good bullet in a 30 cal will do the exact same thing. What you get with the bigger bullet is more kinetic energy: mass x velocity= punch. But seriously, how many of us have older family and friends that did all their hunting with 180gr round nose 303B, or 30-30. I still use a 303B for most my hunting and only pull out the 338 for specific moose or bear hunts, and only cause I already own it. Does any of this make any sense?
 
Within reason, I believe that the additional recoil of a magnum can be mastered through practice. Definitely a good fitting rifle makes a difference, and you should expect either a 300, or 338 Win Mag to be noticeably heavier than your 270 (the 7mm Rem Mag might not have to be significantly heavier).

From my experience, a pragmatic approach would be the following:

Put decent glass, with good eye relief, on your magnum; this will inspire some additional measure of confidence for you, since you will not have to worry about getting bit by the scope.

To start off, I suggest you shoot from the bench in order to sight in your rifle only, and then practice from a freehand, or other field position, in order to gain a level of comfort with the recoil; you don't have to print sub-MOA right away.

Once you are comfortable shooting from field position with your new gun, then you might want to return to the bench in order to work on accuracy.

Once you are satisfied with accuracy from the bench, you should try to work it into your field positions.

Since you are able to reload for your new magnum, you might be able to speed this process by using light loads from the bench, with a gradual move to heavier bullets and faster speeds.

There is no doubt that you can burn more powder in a magnum, that's why the cases are bigger and the bullets are supposed to travel faster. Even with the method I just described, you likely won't be shooting your magnum enough to run you into insolvency.
 
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Since you indicate you are looking for a magnum (I did not read anywhere in your posts that you were looking for what/where/how/why a .270 would/would not work on moose:sucks:), I would seriously consider the 300 RUM (90 + grains behind 180/200's works very well). This cartridge is absolutely devastating with incredibly flat trajectory way out there...I am a believer!

But, of the three you mentioned, and considering it is intended for moose/elk/griz, I would lean towards the .338 Win mag. It'll penetrate into the vitals with 225 or 250's from most angles (unlike the 270 IME).
 
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Thats got to be a fast powder Max with a 130 and imr 4350 is 55. The load with my 338 is 70.6 (max 71.5), Both are hogs compared to the hornet :).

Now the animals I have shot with my 270 are just as dead as with my 338 the difference being with the 338 it was DRT and the 270 was DOT (dead over there). In the intangable and hard to quantify "knock down power" there is no comparision. Lets see a 270 blow front to back blowing a bigger than fist size exit wound out of the ham (at 200 ish with a 200 gr balistic tip). Heck I got my 270 because the 338 was wasting too much of my meat deer.

As for the phrase "properly placed shot" to a certain extent it is BS or atleast miss leading, a shot that would be called a gut shot with a smaller gun is a raking hit that blows through the guts, through the vitals and breaks the off side shoulder with a 338, so the term "properly placed" changes with what load you are brining to the party.

A side benifit for the 338 vs the other magnums is that it throws a bigger bullet at moderate speeds, you don't need a priemium bullet to combat high velocity impacts, think about that 300 mag with a 150 gr bt and a moose quartering towards at 30 yards. Replace that with a 338 and a plain cup and core 250 and there is no problem.
 
dpopl8r said:
Since you indicate you are looking for a magnum (I did not read anywhere in your posts that you were looking for what/where/how/why a .270 would/would not work on moose:sucks:), I would seriously consider the 300 RUM (90 + grains behind 180/200's works very well). This cartridge is absolutely devastating with incredibly flat trajectory way out there...I am a believer!

But, of the three you mentioned, and considering it is intended for moose/elk/griz, I would lean towards the .338 Win mag. It'll penetrate into the vitals with 225 or 250's from most angles (unlike the 270 IME).
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I think it got on to the 270 because i said i had one then people seemed to go off about how its sould do the job(killing moose/elk)just fine. then some people went on about i cant shoot well,so be it i think i can, nothing has ever walked more then 5 feet after i shot it.


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