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Freedom Ventures

Freedom Ventures

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Hey folks.

I'm pretty experienced when it comes to pistols, but a newbie to precision rifles.

I ordered a Tikka T3 tactical 308 in March. It's supposed to arrive in the next month (I was warned it had a huge waiting list). I have a harris bipod for it, but that's it. I have no scope; no loading data, and very little knowledge of precision / sniper rifles, except that the way I load pistol ammo is far too imprecise to work for loading rifle ammo.

My club is looking into expanding their rifle range to 600m so it's the perfect time to get something that can reach out there.

So here I go - please excuse me if these questions are a little "basic"

The gun has an 11" twist - what bullet weight should I be looking for? I want to pick something good and stick with it, rather than bouncing around since I'll be developing my skills as a rifle shooter along the way.

I need a scope - I'm willing to take my time and get something good, but also don't want to invest in some rolls royce brand when there's a decent buy for the money out there.

What power scope should I be looking at? I do want to shoot it at 600-900m and 100m. My inclination is to go with something that is like a 40X, but I've been told that if I go for big magnification, I'm only going to be able to shoot on really sunny days.

Someone told me there's a break in process for new precision rifles? You shoot one round, then clean, shoot, clean, etc. Is that true?

Any help is great.

Thanks in advance!
Sean.
 
I agree with calling Peter Dobson, he is a great guy, I have talked to him on the phone and am getting an IOR scope from him in the next week or so. Depending on your buget you may need something along the lines of Nightforce or IOR to play with the big boys out to 600 yards.

My rifle is a Rem700VVS, in .308, accurized by Jeff Smith and it shoots single holes at 100M and is sub .5MOA at 300M with my hand loads using Varget powder/norma brass/155 BTHP match palma. These will still be good out to 900M so should serve you well since your rifle is better than mine :).

If you PM me I can send you my existing load data.
 
Sean, lots of choices out there. The IOR line, Nightforce and high end Leupolds are pricey. Nightforce has a well proven track record. These scopes would fit the high end spectrum. IOR is trying but has numerous issues in mfg, reliability and distribution.

40x is a bit high for long range shooting +300 yds. Mirage will be difficult to work through. Leupold Comp. 40x or 45x would work, but many people are having them tuckerized from new to avoid point of shift problems.

Most people are finding a variable that can make the low 20x is the ideal. This opens the door to the Bushnell 4200 line 6-24 or a Weaver Grand Slam 6.5-20 (Can't even recall the exact magnification at the present time).

Both scopes are full warranty and repaired in North America. The Grand Slam line uses the proven microtrack system which works great out of the box.

One nice thing about the fixed power scopes is that there is less that can go wrong with them.

Hope that helps.

Joe
 
Your rifle should handle 180 gr bullets and maybe even 200 gr. Would they work at 900m I don't know. I shoot 155 Sierra or Noslers. They will work out to 900m.
If you already have reloading gear for pistol. Get some dies and components and reload. You just have to be a little more anal about it, to get good accurate loads.
I am an iron sight shooter. I know what the target looks like on sunny days at 900m with my 22x WA spotting scope. You won't like a 40x, it will be like looking thru soup.
 
I'd be shooting 168 gr. A-Maxs, J4's, or MatchKings in that rifle over Varget or RL15, maybe even H4895.

A good scope would be a Bushnell Elite 3200 fixed 10x40mm for low price. $250 or so, I liked mine I had.
 
My Tikka Sporter has the same 1:11 twist & 23.3" barrel. I get very good results with Sierra 175g Match Kings, Varget powder, Norma brass & Federal 210 match primers. At 2680fps the bullet is still over 1500fps at 800yds (according to the tables)

I shoot 200-800yds using a Bushnell 4200 6-24X40 mildot with a Near Mfg 25moa base under it. The downside of that scope is the 1/8 clicks. Without the tapered base the scope is good for 100 to 500 yds.
 
pmt said:
My Tikka Sporter has the same 1:11 twist & 23.3" barrel. I get very good results with Sierra 175g Match Kings, Varget powder, Norma brass & Federal 210 match primers. At 2680fps the bullet is still over 1500fps at 800yds (according to the tables)

I shoot 200-800yds using a Bushnell 4200 6-24X40 mildot with a Near Mfg 25moa base under it. The downside of that scope is the 1/8 clicks. Without the tapered base the scope is good for 100 to 500 yds.
Click to expand...

Agreed.1/11 should shoot the 175 a little better at the longer ranges.
 
Freedom Ventures said:
Someone told me there's a break in process for new precision rifles? You shoot one round, then clean, shoot, clean, etc. Is that true?

Any help is great.

Thanks in advance!
Sean.
Click to expand...

Copied this from "Sniper Central" website:

""Question: Should I break in the barrel of my new rifle?
Answer: "There has been no concrete proof that breaking in the barrel of your rifle actually has any prolonged effect. But having said that, it is a fact that it cannot hurt the barrel of your rifle. So, since there is a chance that it 'might' help, and there is no chance its going to hurt the rifle, its generally my recommendation to go ahead and break in your barrel. Some high end rifle makers say its complete unnecessary, while other high end rifle makers say its recommended."

Question: What is the proper break in procedure?
Answer: "There really is no 'right' way to break in your barrel, but here is the procedure that I use. Get some copper solvent (I like Hoppes #9 Benchrest) and your cleaning gear, and head out to the range for an extended shooting session. Fire one round, then clean the barrel and let it cool. Do this after every shot for the first 10 rounds. After that, clean and cool after every 2 shots for the next 10 rounds. Then clean and cool after every 3 rounds for the next 9 rounds. At this point the barrel has been treated and is ready to go. Be sure to clean the barrel/rifle one last time with a standard cleaning solvent to remove the remains of the copper solvent.""


Seems its like giving an enema to a dead man, might not do any good but it can't hurt. :lol:
 
Thanks for all the info guys!

I will be in touch with Peter; and I do have a single stage RCBS press to load rifle on that I use now for black powder cartridge.

Sean.
 
Hey Sean!
I'm curious, how much did you spend for the rifle alone, and what options did you buy it with?(ie, base, rings, bipod, break, etc...)

Some guy round here said he could get me one for 1700$ but that was a bit more than i am rdy to spend on a rifle without optics
 
I have the muzzlebreak on order for it and already have a harris bipod. I'll get rings when I pick a scope; it's got the integral picitinny rail so rings should not be a problem.

As a dealer, I get a little perk by getting the gun for wholesale, and I don't think I'd get it if I told you the dealer price on it. :wink:

That said, knowing what the dealer has to pay, a dealer should sell it in the $1900-$2000 to cover a reasonable markup; and that's just the bare bones rifle.

$1700 retail is a smokin' deal on this gun.
 
Sean, if I may:

Brass: Win. Not found any benefit to the expensive Euro stuff
Primer: CCI BR2 or Fed 210M
Bullet: 155gr will do everything you want for now. I prefer the Amax but some shoot Lapua. Nosler is the cheaper version of the MK but both are less aero then the Hornady or Lapua. You might also want to try the 165gr SST. Yep, a hunting bullet that flies very well and can shoot in the 1's. Great LR bullet. The 175g MK wil be a good choice if you go way out there.
Powder: Varget seems to be the flavor of choice today. Benchmark may be a close second for the 155gr. You will have to test.
Dies: Nothing better off the shelf then the Lee Delux set. If nothing else, get the collet neck sizer. I have used the Forster BR seating die with success too but most of your loading problems start with the sizing die. You want ammo with little to no runout.

Scope rings: Burris Sig with inserts, high is my preference. That will allow you to use reg bases until you get way out there. Maybe not even then depending on the elevation range of your scope. All you need is 35 to 40min of elevation to go from 100 to 1000yds/m.

Scope: The big Elite 4200 6X24 mil dot fan. 4X16 also great. Superb optics and mechanicals. Nikon Buckmaster SF 4X14 is my next favorite - dirt cheap for the features. Big buck scopes would start with the Nikon Tactical, Elite tactical (if you can find), then the 'common' names, ending with the Tasco Super Sniper/Elite 3200 10X if you want great fixed power scope.

You may need to bed the rifle. Most usually enjoy a skim coat. Free float barrel. Adjust the trigger as light as you can use safely.

Fireform some brass, BR prep, collet neck size, work up a load, seat bullets as close to the lands as the mag will allow, shoot, shoot, shoot. The more you shoot, the more accurate your rifle will become. Try using a solid bench and pedestal front and bag rear rest until you get the load for your rifle. You want to eliminate all the variables and a bipod is a huge one.

Just remember that the 308 is popular but is not the best at cheating the wind at longer distances. Be prepared for some larger groups as distances grow. That will improve as trigger time increases.

At the 1000m event in Osoyoos, a great shooter had a 308 Tikka (I believe) and shot sub 10" groups all day in horrid conditions. He used 175gr MK at 'BR' pressures. The rifle can and will shoot from up close to the KM.

Good luck with your new toy and welcome to another really fun part of shooting.

Jerry
 
Sean:

You'll learn the most by going to an NSRA Bull Meadow match such as held yesterday with all shooting at 800M. Small but very knowledgeable group, such as the fine shooter Charlie Bayne and other national and international competitors and those in the shooting business.

For the other contributers who offered kind comments, thanks.

Peter Dobson
 
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