Making 6.5x55 brass from 270?

poweredbybeer

Regular
EE Expired
Rating - 100%
15   0   0
Location
Surrey, BC
I've used the search function to the best of my ability, and found lots of good info, but nothing that answers my specific questions. Basically, I've recently come into possession of several sporter'd Carl Gustaf M96's (one of them is a Husqvarna, actually) chambered in 6.5x55. I've already got dies, bullets and a pound of RL22 in the mail, but I don't have any brass :(

Here's my questions; What are the biggest drawbacks of forming 6.5x55 brass from 270 or 30-06, other than the rim size difference? What should I watch for when doing load developement with reformed brass? Will I be able to reach the book velocites for 6.5x55 with reformed brass without KB'ing my rifle and blowing my face off? Any help would be much appreciated :D
 
poweredbybeer said:
I've used the search function to the best of my ability, and found lots of good info, but nothing that answers my specific questions. Basically, I've recently come into possession of several sporter'd Carl Gustaf M96's (one of them is a Husqvarna, actually) chambered in 6.5x55. I've already got dies, bullets and a pound of RL22 in the mail, but I don't have any brass :(

Here's my questions; What are the biggest drawbacks of forming 6.5x55 brass from 270 or 30-06, other than the rim size difference? What should I watch for when doing load developement with reformed brass? Will I be able to reach the book velocites for 6.5x55 with reformed brass without KB'ing my rifle and blowing my face off? Any help would be much appreciated :D

You should be fine in a bolt/mauser action. Don't try them in a AG-42B. Brass is starting to become available, snoop around. Your better off if you can find some Lapua, or even privi partizan reloadable, but the 30-06 stuff works fine in bolt guns. Watch for pressure signs, If your curious, compare the water capacity of a reformed case with a factory one. If it's smaller you'll have to back off a bit.
 
poweredbybeer said:
I've used the search function to the best of my ability, and found lots of good info, but nothing that answers my specific questions. Basically, I've recently come into possession of several sporter'd Carl Gustaf M96's (one of them is a Husqvarna, actually) chambered in 6.5x55. I've already got dies, bullets and a pound of RL22 in the mail, but I don't have any brass :(

I have tons of Igman 6.5x55 once-fired brass. It needs to be annealed in my experience, but if you want I can send you maybe 60 cases? I will count how much I have and get back to you.

I rarely have a chance to give something to another CGNer, so let me know if you are interested

Point to note, Igman has (in this caliber) under-sized flash holes. I drilled out the flash hole already to 5/64 which is the standard size. I would not however recommend you try to push the velocities too high with this brass. I have fired hundreds of reloads using this, however I tend to stay on the lower side of things to be safe and have fun. I don't know if you can max-load these since I had to tweak the flash hole.
 
Last edited:
You may find that the diameter of the .270 cases just in front of the extractor groove is noticeably smaller than the diameter of the chamber in the same area. The expansion ring may be larger than what you would normally see. I have formed cases, and shot them without mishap, but it may be a better practice to obtain 6.5x55 brass.
 
I have made 6.5x55 out of 30-06,270 and 7x57mm Mauser. No problem in making it and trimming to proper length. But the neck thickness is a bit too thick and you will have to thin it down and anneal the necks to soften them up as they work harden when making them. All in all, you are better off in buying the bulk brass and avoiding the hastle. I made this calibre when it wasn't that plentiful.
 
When 96s first hit the milsurp market quite a few where rechambered for 6.5-06 .If memory serves the chambers where terrible as a 6.5-06 reamer won't clean up a 6.5x55 chamber.
If you do persist in this use mild loads.I wouldn't do it but maybe thats just me.
Rich
 
Take that gift of the Igman brass. Or there was a great deal on a pile of yugo brass, which is great stuff on the EE.

Swede brass lasts an awfully long time it is well worth it to buy what ever quantity of Norma or Lapua brass you can afford. It literally lasts forever. Avoid USA manufacture.

I have a few hundred rounds of Yugo brass with the flash drilled slightly off center If the igman brass does'nt happen PM me and I'll send you enough to get you started. You can also have whatever rem and win brass I have kicking around.
 
david doyle said:
Swede brass lasts an awfully long time it is well worth it to buy what ever quantity of Norma or Lapua brass you can afford. It literally lasts forever. Avoid USA manufacture.
QUOTE]
david doyle said:
I'm going to start reloading 6.5x55 for my Swedes soon. Is the Norma and Lapua brass that much better than Win or Rem? I was just going to go buy some of that brass but now I may need to reconsider and look for Swedish stuff. Is there a source for Lapua or Norma brass that you can recommend? Not sure if I've seen it at Wholesale Sports or SIR. Any help apprreciated as I'm new to reloading.
 
The one thing I have noticed between Igman and other commercial is the case volume. A "normal" load in my Winchester brass and I can hear it shake after seating the bullet. Same load in Igman is compressed :eek: . Load is middle of the road, no where near max.
It's still decent brass, its just something to think about. Oh yeah, take Proutfoo up on his offer ;) :D .

(E) :cool:
 
I just got myself an AG42. What is the issue with using Igman brass in an AG42.
And Proutfoo, if you have more of that brass around, can I contact you?
 
I got some 6.5 Swede from P&D Enterprises a while ago. Check with them too.
 
I saw 6.5x55 at Higgensons a while back (in their flyer) for 15$/100 IIRC.

I have a whack of 6.5x55 (that I am reloading myself :) ) but I can spare some probably. I would need to count it up.

I have 100 unfired factory Igman that I would be willing to part with as well, but shipping is on you :redface: I don't want to fire it because I had problems with it not sealing the chamber properly and it made a real mess of things with powder residue all over the bolt face. Not worth it to me anymore since I reload.
 
Steiner said:
david doyle said:
Swede brass lasts an awfully long time it is well worth it to buy what ever quantity of Norma or Lapua brass you can afford. It literally lasts forever. Avoid USA manufacture.
QUOTE]
david doyle said:
I'm going to start reloading 6.5x55 for my Swedes soon. Is the Norma and Lapua brass that much better than Win or Rem? I was just going to go buy some of that brass but now I may need to reconsider and look for Swedish stuff. Is there a source for Lapua or Norma brass that you can recommend? Not sure if I've seen it at Wholesale Sports or SIR. Any help apprreciated as I'm new to reloading.


YES!!It's worth the extra cost, buy all you can find. If your shooting it in a lungman, shoot nothing else!
 
tootall said:
I just got myself an AG42. What is the issue with using Igman brass in an AG42.
And Proutfoo, if you have more of that brass around, can I contact you?

Should be fine, bullet weight is 139 grn, it's fussy about that, don't shoot the 160 grn stuff....And always, Always, ALWAYS, feed the rounds from the magazine, never place one in the chamber and drop the action on it. Sooner or later it will slam fire and you won't be happy.
 
You know, the rear sight can be set for either the M41 spitzer bullets, or the old pattern round noses, so with Swedish ammunition either 139 or 156/160 grain bullets shouldn't make a difference. There is a little wire staple you pull out, and then the sight cam can be turned. The bullet shape will show in the little window.
 
Cocked&Locked said:
Steiner said:



YES!!It's worth the extra cost, buy all you can find. If your shooting it in a lungman, shoot nothing else!


I heard rumors that the AG42 was mean to brass (IIRC, the word was "slaughtered"). You need to have a load that it likes or it can do nastiness to the brass, I hear :runaway:
 
The AG42B is VERY ammunition sensitive. Depending on gas port pressure, and resulting bolt velocity, results can very from no attempt to cycle the action, to the rim being ripped right off and the case left in the chamber. With a reasonably balanced load, there will be ejector and extractor marks on the case, with the possibility of a minor dent. The case could still be reloaded. They tend to fling the brass into the shrubbery, which was a real aggravation when reloadable brass was hard to find.
 
Back
Top Bottom