Making 6.5x55 brass from 270?

Wow! I wasn't expecting so many responses, thanx for all the feedback :redface: In light of the information in this thread, I think I'll give Higginson and P&D a call and see what they've got. I'm in no rush for brass, work is crazy these days and regretabbly I find that I don't sit down at my reloading bench (aka; coffee table) for more than 3 or 4 hours a week :( I may try reforming a few 270 cases just for the sake of experimentation (with micrometer and digital calipers in hand), but the overwhelming sentiment seems to be that Norma or Lapua brass is superior, so I'll probably end up going that route. Thanx again for all the info and generous offers of help, much obliged!
 
regarding the Igman brass, my experience dictates that annealing it is the best and first thing to do to it. It is especially hard brass, and a little thicker than the north-american stuff I have seen. Annealing it remedies a problem I had early on where the bullet would sometimes not be gripped properly as the brass would spring when resized.

Also, the primer pockets are crimped, so it is best to remove the crimp before priming. I use the Lee chamfer tool and it works quite well to shave off the crimp at the base of the primer pocket.

And finally there is the flash hole as stated...however I have taken care of that already with my drill :p

thankfully, most of this prep work only needs to be done once ... and once it is done, it is solid brass, tough as nails.
 
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I've made bunches of 6.5 Swede out of '06 etc. Annealing, trimming, reaming, all that stuff. All I ever shot it in was an AG42B; but I loadded a bunch for buddies with boltguns.

The best thing I stumbled across was using .308 Win/7.62 NATO. You end-up with a short neck; but I never had a problem with bullet retention and everyone that's had a Ljungman knows it's not a gentle gun.
Yes, you do get the 'rebated rim' effect because the base is slightly larger in the 6.5. Best would be to use virgin brass or once fired. If the brass is starting to get hard it might split. I never had it happen; but the chances of it happening goes up.
 
Splatter said:
Yes, you do get the 'rebated rim' effect because the base is slightly larger in the 6.5. Best would be to use virgin brass or once fired. If the brass is starting to get hard it might split. I never had it happen; but the chances of it happening goes up.
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I do remember reading about your experiences w/.308 brass in another post, sounds like it works pretty good :cool: Would it be a good idea to neck size only after initally resizing, to prevent the base area from work hardening, or will that happen anyway with use?
 
poweredbybeer said:
Would it be a good idea to neck size only after initally resizing, to prevent the base area from work hardening, or will that happen anyway with use?
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All I ever owned was a full-length set, and I was loading for a semi, so I always F-L sized. I was loading 140 grain bullets in front of healthy charges of H4831, so the rifle ejected the cases with great vigor. I didn't understand about port pressure. I don't think I ever recovered 50% of my brass after a day of shooting, so I have no long-term life projections. Of the bolt-guys I reloaded for, I'd usually do batches of 50, and I don't recall anyone asking me to reload the batch for the third time.
 
poweredbybeer said:
I do remember reading about your experiences w/.308 brass in another post, sounds like it works pretty good :cool: Would it be a good idea to neck size only after initally resizing, to prevent the base area from work hardening, or will that happen anyway with use?
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You can neck size with a full length die, just back it off a bit so only the neck of the case is getting worked. Instuctions on the die makers website or in the box with them. If your shooting in a bolt action, and only that one, neck sizing is the way to go. If more than one gun or a semi, full length size. Neck sizing will lengthen your case life and improve your accuracy potential.
 
Cocked&Locked said:
You can neck size with a full length die, just back it off a bit so only the neck of the case is getting worked.
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Actually, with most modern cases you will be -partial-full-length-sizing-
 
Proutfoo said:
regarding the Igman brass, my experience dictates that annealing it is the best and first thing to do to it. It is especially hard brass, and a little thicker than the north-american stuff I have seen. Annealing it remedies a problem I had early on where the bullet would sometimes not be gripped properly as the brass would spring when resized.
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What's the best way to anneal it? Should I anneal only the neck, or can I anneal the whole case?

As far as the neck sizing issue, I've got a set of Lee RGB dies on the way. According to the Lee website, the RGB sets consist of a full-length sizing/depriming die and a bullet seater. I have no problem backing the die off to partially resize or neck size only, but how do I deprime?
 
Do not anneal the whole case! Doing so will render the brass useless and be dangerous if fired.

Just anneal the neck and shoulder area.

There are plenty of references on how to do this in reloading manuals and websites.

Ted
 
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Why not? said:
Do not anneal the whole case! Doing so will render the brass useless and be dangerous if fired.

Just anneal the neck and shoulder area.

There are plenty of references on how to do this in reloading manuals and websites.

Ted
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Copy that, thanx for the tip :D I've got a propane torch and a fairly deep roasting pan that I can fill with water, sounds easy enough :rolleyes: I hope I don't screw it up!
 
poweredbybeer said:
Copy that, thanx for the tip :D I've got a propane torch and a fairly deep roasting pan that I can fill with water, sounds easy enough :rolleyes: I hope I don't screw it up!
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You won't. :)

Deprime the cases first. This will allow the water to flow inside the cases, as well a being on the outside.

Stand them in the pan and fill until the water is about halfway up the body of the cases.

Play the torch around the shoulder of the case, not the neck. The neck will get plenty hot as you heat the shoulder.

As soon as the brass begins to glow, tip the case over into the water with the torch.

Do not heat the case until it turns cherry red. This will make the necks too soft to hold the bullet properly.

I get everything all set up and then turn off the lights and do it in the dark. It is very easy to see the colour change this way.




A second method, and the one I use the most, is to hold the case in my bare fingers above a five gallon bucket that is half-full of water.

While rotating the case in my fingers, I heat the brass with the torch on the shoulder with the flame pointing towards the neck .

As soon as the case gets too hot to hold just drop it in the water. You won't be able to hold it too long to anneal the case head, that's for sure! :runaway:

This method does not anneal the brass as evenly as the pan method, but it works.

Ted
 
I use the 'molten wheel weight' method of anealing. I believe it to be more consistant, and I've just picked-up a hight temp thermometer, so it should be even more precise.
 
I use the hold-it-till-its-too-hot method, and a propane torch. Very easy, just spin it around between your finger while keeping the neck in the point of the blue flame, and then drop into cold water once you feel it hot in your fingers.

I have average dexterity and have yet to have a problem or ruin a case.

I will do a few soon and post pictures if I can get the wife to take some ;)

Here is a pic of what they look like after annealing; notice the blue-colored ring around the neck and shoulder area. (For some reason on this pic the one on the left looks more pale, probably the lighting? ;) They are usually quite similar)

neck-scratched.jpg
 
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