Making a barrel vice and wrench, what to do/not do?

I was just reading about these Viper barrel vise on-line - that user was claiming to tighten all four bolts to 20 foot pounds. Might have been a typo?? On my two bolt affair, with paper, rosin and aluminum inserts, I have tightened the 5/8 fine thread bolts to max with my 150 ft/lb torque wrench, and the P14 barrel wanted to slip, so used a snipe on a strong arm and got about an addition 1/8 of a turn on each bolt. That held. On next one, I took the time to hacksaw about 1/8" deep all around the barrel, leaving about 1/2 width of the hacksaw cut to the receiver shoulder - that one came off easy-peasy - no drama at all!! I have always been leery of "one-size fits all" tools - because they seldom work for me (except like a Channel Lock pliers or a crescent wrench!!) but will be for OP to tell us how that Viper vice worked. It does not appear to use inserts.
 
The only thing I may do different is weld or bolt a portion of steel on the bottom of the vise so I can put it into my bench vise and not have to make more holes in the counter top as this will be used very infrequently.
 
KT, what you're really looking for is a way to clamp your barrel solidly, without deformation or galling.

I use 2 inch square stock, chuck it up, drill a hole down the center and turn the barrel profile at a point about 12-15 cm from the receiver face. Then I cut a slot on one side, right on the axis line, for the full length of the block, usually 2 inches.

Then, I wrap the barrel with brass shim stock and squeeze it down with my home made clamp, which has two 1 inch bolts and allows even torque and enough pressure to squeeze the block enough that it will hold the barrel tight, so it won't turn, when turning off the action.

I don't like using outside clamps on the action. Sometimes it's necessary, such as with Lee Enfield actions or anything with rear locking lugs.

I much prefer to use an internal wrench, which fits into the rear of the receiver and between the locking lug channels.

These internal wrenches are sold by several different makers and are pretty much generic to most actions, such as most Mauser types and Remington, Winchester etc.

The two actions you show would be just fine with an internal wrench.
 
bearhunter said:
KT, what you're really looking for is a way to clamp your barrel solidly, without deformation or galling.

I use 2 inch square stock, chuck it up, drill a hole down the center and turn the barrel profile at a point about 12-15 cm from the receiver face. Then I cut a slot on one side, right on the axis line, for the full length of the block, usually 2 inches.

Then, I wrap the barrel with brass shim stock and squeeze it down with my home made clamp, which has two 1 inch bolts and allows even torque and enough pressure to squeeze the block enough that it will hold the barrel tight, so it won't turn, when turning off the action.

I don't like using outside clamps on the action. Sometimes it's necessary, such as with Lee Enfield actions or anything with rear locking lugs.

I much prefer to use an internal wrench, which fits into the rear of the receiver and between the locking lug channels.

These internal wrenches are sold by several different makers and are pretty much generic to most actions, such as most Mauser types and Remington, Winchester etc.

The two actions you show would be just fine with an internal wrench.
Click to expand...

It is a two lug action so yes it'll work fine I believe, just never heard much about the internal wrench until now.
 
Just a comment about taking a barrel off with an internal wrench...
My internal wrench has a square head on it. I made a handle using square steel tube to fit, with a steel crossbar welded to it. The ends of the crossbar are turned to fit into pieces of pipe. Foot and a half long on each side - swing of the wrench handle is 3 feet. Face the thing, push up with the right hand, down with the left. If the barrel is tight, you can feel the wrench twisting/springing. Without the receiver unscrewing.
This is when a properly fitted external wrench comes into its own. Sometimes a sharp crack on the wrench handle will release a receiver when straight pressure won't.

While we are discussing removing barrels, got to mention the rope trick.
Clamp up the receiver. Take a piece of strong nylon rope, double it. Wrap the doubled rope around the barrel. Pass a long strong hardwood billet through the loop. Hold the wrapped rope on the barrel, start winding. The rope is a strap wrench, and will lock tight onto the barrel without marking it. Good long billet of hardwood gives good leverage.
Barrels in the M94 Winchester class can be removed using the rope trick.
 
I do not remember where I read the process, but the very first barrel that I pulled was exactly as described by Tiriaq as "rope trick". Instead of a "billet", I used a 36" long sledge hammer handle. Held the Rem 788 receiver in the action wrench we built, that action wrench in a bench vice. Unscrewed that barrel very slickly!! Then realized that a barrel needed to be re-installed exactly to the aligning mark, that recoil lug needed to be held exactly in place as barrel shoulder tightened up, and rest of that operation did not go near as well. But getting that barrel off, sure worked!!!
 
OP, I have a Weatherby Vanguard action wrench that fits the outside profile around the recoil lug perfectly. Machined it myself and used it on a build recently. PM me if you’d like.
 
All machined on my lathe...

Barrel Vise machined from 2 inch stock, 1.5 inches thick, 1.5 inch hole, steel bushing to fit the barrel
barrel-vise.jpg


Clamp Wrench
clamp-wrench.jpg


Internal Spade Wrench
wrench.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom