Making Brass for my Stoney Point Tool
- Thread starter Ruttinbuck
- Start date
This will work OK, but the 7.2mm Tap drill is actually the proper size {makes the tap easier to turn, as it is a tad larger than 9/32"}. Eagleye.
5/16-36 tap for decent price?
Has anyone found the 5/16-36 tap in Canada for a decent price? I found one store that would get me one from out of province, and would cost me over $50!!
I found some in the US for around $10, but then you have shipping, brokers etc. Someone must have them up here.
Has anyone found the 5/16-36 tap in Canada for a decent price? I found one store that would get me one from out of province, and would cost me over $50!!
I found some in the US for around $10, but then you have shipping, brokers etc. Someone must have them up here.
Here you go:
http://www.kbctools.com/can/main.cfm
http://www.kbctools.com/can/main.cfm
Now, I obviously don't know how big an investment you have in the pre-made Stoney Point brass; but how about if you were to run a 1/4-28 die over the threads on the rod?
You'd have to make-up all new brass; but it'd be pretty easy, and you'd save the money for the special tap.
You'd have to make-up all new brass; but it'd be pretty easy, and you'd save the money for the special tap.
Woops, if that's the case, then yup, you're right! I thought I saw a tap price of $50!, Tht's when I thought about rethreading the rod.
They're not that easy to come by for $10. I considered rethreading the OAL guage, but its $50 also. I ordered some out of the US, (before reading the reply above complete with a link). There was a minimum order so I got 4, figuring other guys would want one anyway. I'm going to offer up the 3 I don't need, and if no one wants them I guess I have spares. At least I'll be able to modify the cases whenever I need one. 
It requires a numbered drill bit - that I cant recall- and a tap -whose size I cant recall either. I will check later tonite at home and post it if you wish.
One kind poster informed me a few years ago (with much appreciation) and I have used it for sooo many calibers since.
Bought both the bit and tap from KBC for not much at all -- I think I had to buy something else to reach their miniumum shipping charge...
Works very very well. When you have the odd calibers - it is the only way to go.
One kind poster informed me a few years ago (with much appreciation) and I have used it for sooo many calibers since.
Bought both the bit and tap from KBC for not much at all -- I think I had to buy something else to reach their miniumum shipping charge...
Works very very well. When you have the odd calibers - it is the only way to go.
9/32", 7.2mm, 7.3mm or L drill bits will all work fine... it isn't a critical interface that requires tight tolerances or precise alignment, and brass is very easy to cut threads in.
The critical interfaces is case-to-chamber. I use a case that I've fired three times (neck sized in between), so that it's perfectly formed and fitted to the chamber. The Hornady cases are usually a bit loose and the OAL you're measuring is actually shorter than the real distance to the lands.
The critical interfaces is case-to-chamber. I use a case that I've fired three times (neck sized in between), so that it's perfectly formed and fitted to the chamber. The Hornady cases are usually a bit loose and the OAL you're measuring is actually shorter than the real distance to the lands.
fingers284
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Just a coincidence I did a couple up for a friend this summer and I can tell you that the case must be well supported on a mandrel of some kind to achieve perfect alignment. As someone already mentioned brass cuts easily, for this reason it will also cut off-center or angled just as easily as it cuts straight if not held so, too begin with.
I have a clamp that is the same diameter as the case head, and machined inside to fit. It is split, so squeezing it with a vise grip will then grip the case tightly while I drill and tap it.
Doesn't damage the case, and all I have to assure is proper alignment.....quite easy actually.
Remember, when using a fired case from your rifle, do NOT size the case or the neck when you are making this special case.
Regards, Dave
Doesn't damage the case, and all I have to assure is proper alignment.....quite easy actually.
Remember, when using a fired case from your rifle, do NOT size the case or the neck when you are making this special case.
Regards, Dave
You can hold them in any vice if it has the notch for rods. Just make sure it is gripping the sold part of the web and not some part of the case that will collapse. You may need to file off the marks after, but it won't affect its use. I would advise starting with a bit that is the same size as the primer pocket and then opening up the hole gradually. This will help you keep the hole straight and concentric with the case.
I have a lathe, but I've done it like this on several occasions where I didn't have the foresight of creating the case before I started chambering a barrel, and then needed the case to measure the throat since I was making it longer.
I have a lathe, but I've done it like this on several occasions where I didn't have the foresight of creating the case before I started chambering a barrel, and then needed the case to measure the throat since I was making it longer.
I've held the brass by taking two wood blocks and clamping them in a vice. I then drilled in between the two blocks down through the crevice with a drill bit about the size of my brass (takes some experimenting). When you separate the blocks you should have a half circle groove down each block. Sand it up a bit and then you are good to go, just clamp the brass between the two blocks.
Thx. for the ideas guys just waiting on my tap to arrive so i can get at it,i tried one holding the thick base part with vise grips it kinda sorta worked and i did start at the same size as the flash hole and gradually progressed,i think the tricky part will be making the threads start straight alright.
When you go to tap the threads you will really find out if your method of holding the brass works well or not.
I question whether or not it matters if the hole is drilled and tapped a little bit crooked. I don't think it will hurt the measurement that we are trying to acquire. In my mind it would just cause the tool to come out of the back of the gun a little crooked when being used. I think it just needs to be somewhat straight.
Feetfats i am with ya on that one,get as close to staight as possible and be happy,perfect has never been my strong point anyway.
