Making lapua .308 into 6.5 creedmore, anyone have experience?

dastt

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I recently picked up a 6.5 creedmore and I'm starting to get my reloading components figured out, has anyone tried this?

http://youtu.be/N31hpsB4xD8

I came across this video on YouTube, thought it would be a neat project. I've been reloading for a couple years now, and I feel like I should be able to pull this off.

Any advice would be great
 
I'm not sure the reason they're using a sacrificial die and sanding it down to bump the shoulder back more. I've done various cartridge conversions and have always used standard FL sizing dies with lots of lube. If I'm moving the shoulder back quite far (.30-06 to 8x57mm for example) I do it in steps, turning the die down until it bottoms on the shell holder. In other cases I just do things normally if the shoulder isn't moving more than 1-2mm. Currently looking at ordering some .45-90 brass to convert to proper length 8x58RD cases (my 7.62x54R converted ones are very short in the neck).

Cartridge conversion isn't too difficult if you know the steps and why they're done (like neck turning). It's often called an advanced reloading technique and can be when doing advanced things often requiring a lathe (like turning off rims and adding extractor grooves) but I'd call it intermediate at most when just changing neck size and bumping the shoulder.

That video has terrible audio and I'm not sure what's going on at times. I found this video quite helpful:

It's for .223 to .222 conversion but the principals are the same for .308 to 6.5CM since the head sizes match.
 
I would neck up 22-250 or, preferably, 250 Savage brass and fire-form. Necking down a 308 case will require that the necks be trimmed, turned, and annealed before fire-forming.

Unless you have a bucket of .308 brass, and enjoy that sort of busy-work, I would again suggest the 250 Savage case.
 
Could you not run 22-250 brass through a .250 die then fireform as the former brass is more plentiful ?Harold
 
Could you not run 22-250 brass through a .250 die then fireform as the former brass is more plentiful ?Harold

Hi Harold - don't even need to do that. I just started fire forming 22-250 a couple months ago (using PRVI brass, Tightgroup and cream of wheat) and they come out just perfect. I thought I might have to trim them to length afterwards but no no need for that either.
 
As others have said either 250 Sav. or 22-250 brass is easier to work with than 308 Lapua.
I tried the 308 Lapua route and it isn't worth the hassle.
Really, there is no need to as there is lots of CRM brass around..
 
I think some places are having a shortage of Creedmoor. I bought some Hornady Creedmoor brass ($1 ea) and PRVI 22-250 (.48 ea) and have been using them both to see how compare. It's still early to tell but I think the PRVI is winning.
 
Hirsch has 22-250 Lapua brass if you want some higher quality stuff....I run 22-250 brass through a set of Hornady .250 Sav dies for my 700 Classic....Harold
 
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