Making my GSG-16 look like an MP5SD

Wal-Mart Greeter

Wal-Mart Greeter

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Some of you watching the IRG GSG-16 discussion threads will have already seen this but I wanted to post here to also get the attention of the people who maybe have this rifle on order from the official Canadian distributor and therefore aren’t following the IRG thread...

I’m trying to make my GSG-16 look as close as I can to an MP5. I’ve modelled a hand guard and a top rail delete plate in Fusion 360 and these are my results so far.

I’m open to opinions and suggestions. Some have already suggested the classic MP5 tapered hand guard rather than the MP5SD hand guard. Who would prefer that look?

D6145-C1-B-D07-C-4361-80-BC-FAD086-AB07-C9.jpg
 
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If you're familiar with how the stock rails mount to the fore-end you'll be familiar with the raised circular screw points on each side of the fore end. The hand guard has 3 grooves in it that correspond to these raised protrusions. So it slides over top of the fore end from front to back (from muzzle towards the mag well). I put two holes in the bottom channel so that the stock rail screws could be used to secure the hand guard. I didn't want to put the screw holes on the sides because it would affect the look.

However, the two prototypes I have made so far have such tight tolerances and fit so snug that the screws aren't necessary. It takes a bit of effort to slide it on but once it's on it doesn't come off without a lot of effort. I'm playing around with that right now. I'm not sure if relying on a tight fit is safe. I wouldn't want it to come off in my hand with live rounds in the gun...
 
Wow, that looks really good. My suggestion would be to make it a little longer so it extend right to the end of the upper portion of receiver near the front sight post, maybe even over lapping the shroud by a 1/4 inch or so. I also like the idea of the tapered hand guard.
 
AB.boy said:
Wow, that looks really good. My suggestion would be to make it a little longer so it extend right to the end of the upper portion of receiver near the front sight post, maybe even over lapping the shroud by a 1/4 inch or so. I also like the idea of the tapered hand guard.
Click to expand...

I'm afraid heat from the barrel shroud will become a factor if I overlap it. I can do some testing, though. I did shoot 400 rounds through this gun and then put an infrared thermometer on it to make sure the hand guard area wasn't going to get hot. I did note the barrel shroud got hot but I didn't write down exactly how hot.
 
Wal-Mart Greeter said:
I'm afraid heat from the barrel shroud will become a factor if I overlap it. I can do some testing, though. I did shoot 400 rounds through this gun and then put an infrared thermometer on it to make sure the hand guard area wasn't going to get hot. I did note the barrel shroud got hot but I didn't write down exactly how hot.
Click to expand...

Yeah because fully extended would be awesome. Do you use ABS or PLA? Just gotta do some tests to find out what temp it gets soft at.
 
I've decided against relying on a friction fit. So I've tapered the holes on the bottom and I will use them. v3 is on the printer right now.

Thanks for the comments and the ideas, I genuinely appreciate the support. This is not my day job, it's just a hobby for me, and I'm learning a lot along the way.


Fusion360-2.jpg
 
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OkayShooter said:
Yeah because fully extended would be awesome. Do you use ABS or PLA? Just gotta do some tests to find out what temp it gets soft at.
Click to expand...

Preferably PLA otherwise it gets complicated.

The thing about ABS is styrene-based plastics require an enclosure and they produce some nasty vapors. I have an enclosure and can print in the garage but it really slows down progress as far as designing & testing. I will also have more rejects with ABS. I can definitely do the final product in ABS if required but I would love not to have to. Also I believe the glass transition temp of ABS is only about 100 degrees which may not even be enough near a hot barrel.

The other thing with ABS is there are no matte colours. The same print in ABS will appear very shiny compared to this, giving a cheap appearance. This is the main reason I stay away from ABS except for functional moving parts or items that will sit in a hot car or something. Same for PETG, I've never seen a matte PETG...
 
'worse' case scenario, when the model is 100% gtg. send it to a place where they can print/machine/magic it...

I also PLA 100% of my draft gun thingies, until i get the 'perfect' version, then it's off to some place for quality production (if it requires it that is!).

fusion/360 is too much for me, im sticking to tinkercad... most recent project is/was to do an embitr from scratch for halloween/airsoft/etc:

hRlx2rd.png


I'll start fiddling around the gsg-16 once I gather enough non-lazyness to install my direct drive on my ender 3... lol

I'd really like mp5 style sights on this thing though.
 
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Everyone recommended TinkerCAD to me and I just didn't take to it. For some reason Fusion360 just works.

The reason I have this printer is for rapid prototyping of one off parts we require for repairing antique safes & vaults at work. I do have a machinist that would happily make this but I just don't think anybody wants a 200$ hand guard for a 400$ gun lol

The only reason I don't go direct drive is because I'm afraid to introduce a lot of ringing into my prints by having all that weight on the gantry. Not sure I would go direct drive until I installed a second Z-axis lead screw and motor and that's honestly more than I want to do to my Ender. It makes more sense to upgrade to a machine in the 2K$+ range. I've already spent so much on the BLTouch, silent stepper drivers, BMG extruder, micro swiss hot end, ruby nozzle clone, 50W heater cartridge, glass bed, etc that I've gotta stop at some point.
 
Wal-Mart Greeter said:
Everyone recommended TinkerCAD to me and I just didn't take to it. For some reason Fusion360 just works.

The reason I have this printer is for rapid prototyping of one off parts we require for repairing antique safes & vaults at work. I do have a machinist that would happily make this but I just don't think anybody wants a 200$ hand guard for a 400$ gun lol

The only reason I don't go direct drive is because I'm afraid to introduce a lot of ringing into my prints by having all that weight on the gantry. Not sure I would go direct drive until I installed a second Z-axis lead screw and motor and that's honestly more than I want to do to my Ender. It makes more sense to upgrade to a machine in the 2K$+ range. I've already spent so much on the BLTouch, silent stepper drivers, BMG extruder, micro swiss hot end, ruby nozzle clone, 50W heater cartridge, glass bed, etc that I've gotta stop at some point.
Click to expand...

do it


:)

In all seriousness though, good work on the mods. I'll jump on that train once winter comes, more time for indoor projects :)

I wan to tacke the sights, front guard (also), fake can over fake can; mp5 safety,...
 
AB.boy said:
Wow, that looks really good. My suggestion would be to make it a little longer so it extend right to the end of the upper portion of receiver near the front sight post, maybe even over lapping the shroud by a 1/4 inch or so. I also like the idea of the tapered hand guard.
Click to expand...

yes +1
 
Wal-Mart Greeter said:
Some of you watching the IRG GSG-16 discussion threads will have already seen this but I wanted to post here to also get the attention of the people who maybe have this rifle on order from the official Canadian distributor and therefore aren’t following the IRG thread...

I’m trying to make my GSG-16 look as close as I can to an MP5. I’ve modelled a hand guard and a top rail delete plate in Fusion 360 and these are my results so far.

I’m open to opinions and suggestions. Some have already suggested the classic MP5 tapered hand guard rather than the MP5SD hand guard. Who would prefer that look?

D6145-C1-B-D07-C-4361-80-BC-FAD086-AB07-C9.jpg
Click to expand...

Could you make it longer, say to just underneath the front sight?
 
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