Making my Savage MarkII into a 1000 yard competition gun

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flyrrad

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Not really, but I bet it got your attention! :evil: Now, for the real stuff: my Savage MII G has a decent accu-trigger, but I think I'd like to lighten it down a little. I have done some research on Rifle Basix triggers, and they have great reviews. Just wondering what other trigger groups are out there, or if this is "the one". Not into competitive rimfire or anything, just wanting a lighter trigger as I think my tendency is towards a side pull when shooting and hoping a lighter trigger may fix this.
Any information (good or bad) will be read and appreciated. Where to purchase aftermarket trigger? How difficult to install? etc

:D
 
I have a Rifle Basix trigger in an older non-accutrigger Mk.II and it is superb. Installation and adjustment took maybe 30 minutes at a leisurely pace and was problem free.


Mark
 
My Mk II TR has a 14 oz pull with the RB trigger... the accu-trigger is pure junk....

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I've got a couple of pairs of small needle nose pliers and some long time skill at cutting and bending music wire such as used for making springs.

My Mk II BTV was barely cool from the box before I had it apart and clipped 1.5 coils from the Accutrigger spring and reformed the end. With 1.5 coils cut away the MAX pull is now just a little heavier than the original minimum pull. Maybe mine was a little heavy but it measured at a little over 3 lbs at minimum. With the spring cut and reformed as noted I'm down to under 1lb at minimum and around 3 lbs at max. At the 1 lb setting it sometimes fails to grab the bolt. But at mid way up it is 100% and has a nice trigger pull.

If you do this I definitely suggest that you go for 3/4 turn first time, try it then go in 1/2 turn clips from there. The 1/2 turn clips are mandated by the fact that the tip and dogleg require a half turn of the spring wire to form. So it's pretty hard to move in other than 1/2 turn increments.

It's still a little creepy. But with the issues noted already I'm reluctant to try to deal with that if it means removing metal. What I may try is lightly "crimping" in the receiver to reduce the bolt play. With a more consistent bolt positioning due to removing some play within the receiver I should be able to limit the amount of trigger sear to bolt hook interference. And that should allow me to reduce the sear to bolt hook interface.
 
BCRider said:
I've got a couple of pairs of small needle nose pliers and some long time skill at cutting and bending music wire such as used for making springs.

My Mk II BTV was barely cool from the box before I had it apart and clipped 1.5 coils from the Accutrigger spring and reformed the end. With 1.5 coils cut away the MAX pull is now just a little heavier than the original minimum pull. Maybe mine was a little heavy but it measured at a little over 3 lbs at minimum. With the spring cut and reformed as noted I'm down to under 1lb at minimum and around 3 lbs at max. At the 1 lb setting it sometimes fails to grab the bolt. But at mid way up it is 100% and has a nice trigger pull.

If you do this I definitely suggest that you go for 3/4 turn first time, try it then go in 1/2 turn clips from there. The 1/2 turn clips are mandated by the fact that the tip and dogleg require a half turn of the spring wire to form. So it's pretty hard to move in other than 1/2 turn increments.

It's still a little creepy. But with the issues noted already I'm reluctant to try to deal with that if it means removing metal. What I may try is lightly "crimping" in the receiver to reduce the bolt play. With a more consistent bolt positioning due to removing some play within the receiver I should be able to limit the amount of trigger sear to bolt hook interference. And that should allow me to reduce the sear to bolt hook interface.
Click to expand...

On top of cutting the main spring I cut the blade spring on mine then stretched it out a little. As well I shimmed the trigger pin.

Light and zero creep.


Edited to add I also stretched the sear spring a bit too.
 
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I got mine down to 13 oz using the cut the coil trick. you just have to bend a point at the top to fit in the locator hole. here are some pics i took. It's like one "E" clip, one pin, snip snip... bob's your uncle. I kept mine at 1 pound, but it adjusted from about 13 oz - 2 pounds.









 
It seemed to me while doing it that cutting the main spring reduced the pull but there was still a little creep

Sorry it was the sear spring I stretched a bit as well as cutting the blade spring and shimming.

I think it's stretching the sear spring and shimming that take care of the creep.

I have a bunch of shims left if you want some pm me and I'll mail them to you.
 
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Interesting... I didn't touch my sear safety spring or do anything other than clip the coil and polish the sear itself... and my trigger broke so clean the shot would always surprise me.
 
Even after cutting the spring you still have a trigger that will lock up on you for no reason if there is any slight side pressure....

 
Mine doesn't after I shimmed it. Mind you to get it to lock I had to push so hard I thought I'd bend something.

Same with my 116fcss. I had to push so hard to get it to lock I didn't bother shimming it. It would never see that kind of side pressure during ANY kind of use.
 
This is rapidly turning into a Savage Trigger Mod thread.... I LIKE it! ! ! ! :D

Keep those hints coming.

I haven't had any issues with my Accu Trigger and the many .Mk I's that my club uses for the Jr .22 program have all been flawless. But it's interesting to see that there's a possible issue.
 
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