Man, I could use a trigger job

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YVRguy

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I recently purchased my first revolver - a S&W 686 (4"). I love the gun overall but I am really having a tough time getting used to the double action trigger pull. They say you're not supposed to "stage" the trigger but I find that naturally happens because the trigger tends to have sticky spots along it's endless travel. It seems impossible to achieve a smooth, consistent double action pull.

Does anyone have advice on getting a "trigger job" for this gun? Can any gunsmith do it or can someone suggest a S&W specialist? How much is reasonable to pay? I'm in Vancouver.
 
YVRguy said:
I recently purchased my first revolver - a S&W 686 (4"). I love the gun overall but I am really having a tough time getting used to the double action trigger pull. They say you're not supposed to "stage" the trigger but I find that naturally happens because the trigger tends to have sticky spots along it's endless travel. It seems impossible to achieve a smooth, consistent double action pull.

Does anyone have advice on getting a "trigger job" for this gun? Can any gunsmith do it or can someone suggest a S&W specialist? How much is reasonable to pay? I'm in Vancouver.
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Get in touch with Murray Charlton Enterprises in Saanichton, outside Victoria. His trigger jobs are as good as it gets, and he's the S&W warranty guy, so no issues. You'll get a beautiful trigger, and I've always thought he under charges for the quality of work. If he was in the US, you'd be lined up for years.
 
Do not remove the side plate unless you know what you're doing. It's way to easy to mangle your frame and make your gun look like crap.
 
I have that gun and the trigger is gold! Just run the gun and it will be what you want. If you cannot get a side plate off the gun nice and tidy then you should get someone to d the work for you. It ain't that though.
 
Remove grips, back out the little spring screw a turn or two. Test at the range for light primer strike but should be fine. Poor mans trigger job lol
 
I've gotten into revolvers lately, playing in IPSC revolver division. I was running a couple of 625's that already had tuned triggers, and now that 6+ minor is allowed, I set up a couple of 929's to compete with. Straight out of the "Performance Center" factory, the trigger pulls were horrible! Something like a 12lb DA trigger pull and very very gritty.

You can get a lot of improvement by polishing the heck out of the rebound bar and the frame surfaces it slides on. Once you have done that, you can drop in an 11lb rebound spring from Wolf. I also installed a reduced power main spring from Wolf. With the strain screw fully turned in, the DA trigger pull was ~8.5lb, much smoother and fired CCI primers very reliably. I did some additional tuning, installed an Apex hammer, and have it firing Federal primers reliably at 5.5lbs and a really smooth DA pull.

Here's my main competition 929, and the my backup (got a great deal on it and couldn't resist lol).
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I'm a member at DVC and PCDHFC if you want to meet up some time and we can compare revolvers and trigger pulls :)
 

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Making the trigger pull lighter will not get rid of the sticky areas. Put a few hundred rounds through it (or dry fire). If it still has sticky areas send it to Murray Charlton. That is what I did and it was excellent.
 
Seems like the overwhelming consensus is Murray Charlton. He did a fantastic job on two of my 686's years ago. You can't go wrong sending it to him.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. Based on feedback I think I'll try adjusting the spring when I remove my grip and then shoot the heck out of it for the next while to see how well things smooth out (as some have suggested). Failing that I've been in touch with Murray Charlton and I may avail myself of his services. I'm at DVC a fair bit so maybe I'll see you there - or have already seen you!
 
If you loosen the strain screw, the gun will probably end up not firing - maybe at first, maybe 200 or 2000 rounds down the road. If all you're doing is casual plinking, I guess it's not a big deal, if you're considering getting competitive it could cost a match. Not saying don't - just saying be aware.
 
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A wolf spring kit helped out mine dramatically too, but you need to know what your doing when you crack it open, I now only run Federal primers in this revolver, if I don't I occasionally will get one that won't fire in DA, and can't have that as I run the gun in matches
 
My first 2 686s had rough and stiff triggers, so I used the Wolff spring kits for them which included the main leaf spring and 3 pcs of different weight trigger return springs.

Main drawback was that I had weak primer strikes on DA and even SA ignition was unreliable. Federal ammo or primers were a must, because federal brand ammo have the softest primers.

Fast forward 9 years, I bought an almost new, stock condition 686-3. I didn't bother to replace the stock main and return springs. Just shot and shot this 686 until my trigger finger got stronger.
Same with my GP100...totally stock. Naturally, their triggers smoothened out as weill.

IMO, there's nothing wrong with original equipment just learn how to shoot properly.
 
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