Mannlicher Schonauer 1903 carbine - photo heavy

Hope there is not a gob of bedding preventing the mag from coming loose / rotating. Maybe put it in the freezer to try and cold shrink it and give it tap as you suggest.
 
Try pushing in the magazine bottom plate latch with your brass punch, then tapping against the punch to rotate the plate. This won't mark anything; trying to tap the rim of the plate could.
The chamber will likely have a long leade for 160gr roundnose bullets. As mentioned, the magazine will determine the overall length of the rounds.
Inspect your fired cases for incipient separations. Headspace may be approximate. If it is generous, fireform new brass, then size to suit the rifle.
There is a Mannlicher Collectors Society which publishes a newsletter.
 
tiriaq said:
Try pushing in the magazine bottom plate latch with your brass punch, then tapping against the punch to rotate the plate. This won't mark anything; trying to tap the rim of the plate could.
The chamber will likely have a long leade for 160gr roundnose bullets. As mentioned, the magazine will determine the overall length of the rounds.
Inspect your fired cases for incipient separations. Headspace may be approximate. If it is generous, fireform new brass, then size to suit the rifle.
There is a Mannlicher Collectors Society which publishes a newsletter.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll try that. I resisted using a punch on the side of the magazine as I just knew I'd slip and gouge the stock.

I have Privi 156 gr SP factory ammo but they are short. OAL should be 3.0" and they are 2 7/8". They load and chamber fine but sometimes (not all the time) the magazine spool seems to stick and the round in the mag is too low for the bolt to pick up. I think it may either be dried oil and crud in the magazine or a weak mag spring. Once I get the mag out I will soak it in varsol and then give it a good shake/brushing.

I have been advised not to disassemble the mag as they are tricky to get back together and I am not the most mechanical gunnut..............
 
Does anyone know What the H and T on the turret mean? I think the H means UP?

I was shooting it today with 156 gr PPU ammo. The irons one hole at 25 yards off a front rest using the set trigger, 0.5" below POA. But to do this I needed to use the taller 300 yard leaf.

The scope was shooting 7" high at 25 yards and at least 36" high at 100 yards. Rather than waste ammo I decided to figure out how the turret works :)

The felt recoil off the bench felt like a 30-30 Marlin 336. The trigger unset is heavy and I jerked my first shot with it. Using the double set trigger resulted in an OK clean, light trigger pull. The lock time seemed longer than my BRNO bolt action rifles.

The action was hard to open, especially the final 1/3 of the bolt rotation. I had to be more forceful with the 117 year old action than I wanted to be........

Any advice on the turret will be appreciated.

U8A1F0fl.jpg
 
If you have a solid rest and have someone with you to help, fire three shots.
Keep aiming the rifle on your aim point and have you assistant move to turret knob(s) to place the coss hair or post on the center of impact point with you directing it..
Do another three and repeat until zeroed in. Scopes, 99.99% correct in the direction you want to move the impact

Note that in German target sights(iron adjustable peep) most have 'bei" on the knobs.
This means they correct BY where the Shot WAS. EG : shot(s) high high at 12 o'clock are corrected by moving knob in H (Hoche/High) direction.

20190207-094237.jpg
OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg
 
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diopter said:
If you have a solid rest and have someone with you to help, fire three shots.
Keep aiming the rifle on your aim point and have you assistant move to turret knob(s) to place the coss hair or post on the center of impact point with you directing it..
Do another three and repeat until zeroed in. Scopes, 99.99% correct in the direction you want to move the impact

Note that in German target sights(iron adjustable peep) most have 'bei" on the knobs.
This means they correct BY where the Shot WAS. EG : shot(s) high high at 12 o'clock are corrected by moving knob in H (Hoche/High) direction.

20190207-094237.jpg
OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg
Click to expand...

Thanks, so informative!

My turrets don't have "bei" marked on them. I am shooting HIGH. I assume I should turn the turret in the "T" direction?
 
Scope guys, are there any precautions I should take before I start turning the 117 year old elevation turret a bunch of turns? I plan to find the number of revolutions it can make then set it in the middle of its range and start sighting in there on a big sheet of paper at 25 yards, then move out when I'm close.

Figuring on a 2.75" high zero at a 100 yards.
 
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No oil on the scope turret(s) or near lens. Oil evaporation gases can seriously damage lens coatings.

You have adjustable windage claw mount which may use a small drop of oil on edge of screw head and windage dovetail rail.

2.75 inches is not a big deal.
If scope is 1/4 moa adjustment you need about 11 clicks for 2.75 inches. It may not be 1/4 moa adjustment.
Try 4 clicks and see how much that change actually gives you.

You have a post reticle? round or pointed?

BTW to remember what the T stands for, "Stop you low down thief! (Tief)
 
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diopter said:
No oil on the scope turret(s) or near lens. Oil evaporation gases can seriously damage lens coatings.

You have adjustable windage claw mount which may use a small drop of oil on edge of screw head and windage dovetail rail.

2.75 inches is not a big deal.
If scope is 1/4 moa adjustment you need about 11 clicks for 2.75 inches. It may not be 1/4 moa adjustment.
Try 4 clicks and see how much that change actually gives you.

You have a post reticle? round or pointed?

BTW to remember what the T stands for, "Stop you low down thief! (Tief)
Click to expand...

It's post reticle and it's a pointed post.
 
diopter said:
No oil on the scope turret(s) or near lens. Oil evaporation gases can seriously damage lens coatings.

You have adjustable windage claw mount which may use a small drop of oil on edge of screw head and windage dovetail rail.

2.75 inches is not a big deal.
If scope is 1/4 moa adjustment you need about 11 clicks for 2.75 inches. It may not be 1/4 moa adjustment.
Try 4 clicks and see how much that change actually gives you.

You have a post reticle? round or pointed?

BTW to remember what the T stands for, "Stop you low down thief! (Tief)
Click to expand...

There are two screws on the windage mount, one on either side of the mount. How do I use them? Do I loosen both and then screw in one side?
 
Loosen the side you want it to move towards, then tighten the other to move in the desired direction (bwag) best wild ass guess as to how much, then tighen the side you first loosened.
 
If shots are on the left, loosen right side.tighten left side to drift it, then tighten right to lock. Scope pivot point is front claws.
Idea is to get the post tip to impact point.
 
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