Marking Brass ?????

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I remember reading an article on marking brass for easy collecting . It had a device that would hold 1,2 or 3 highlighter markers . I have done a couple searches with no results .
Does anyone remember this article or have a link ?

Thanks
Shorty
 
I mark my brass with markers. A lot of us do. I found it doesn't really make it any easier for finding or collecting them, just in sorting out who's is who's when the shootings over.
 
I remember the article, and now its gonna bug me that I can't find it either.
It seemed like a good idea, but time consuming. The marks didn't last too long in the tumbler. I just draw a line across my bases once loaded.

(E) :cool:
 
drop your brass in a glass of kool-aid and let it soak for a few hours. (unloaded, of course :rolleyes: )

You will likely be the only one with purple or mango-coloured brass when the shooting stops :D
 
Proutfoo said:
drop your brass in a glass of kool-aid and let it soak for a few hours. (unloaded, of course :rolleyes: )

You will likely be the only one with purple or mango-coloured brass when the shooting stops :D

Does that really work?

How long does it last?
 
DMeNTED said:
Does that really work?

How long does it last?

well I don't tumble brass so I don't know how durable it will be once tumbled. The kool-aid helps break down the grime as it contains citric acid and helps to clean the brass.

But I have a good heap of off-orange coloured brass at my disposal ;)
 
I think the link for the multiple marker is on the hosercam webpage.
 
Decided to do a quick search on google - looks like a lot of model builders (trains mainly) use cold blue to "blacken" brass...

Might see if it works...
 
Decided to do a quick search on google - looks like a lot of model builders (trains mainly) use cold blue to "blacken" brass...

Might see if it works...

that would be very cool...
going to try that right now also


edited - well after tearing up the work bench found my bottle of cold blue - none left, will have to wait :(
 
Last edited:
I have cold blued my cases with success. It isn't very nice to try and polish off after. Make sure you clean them well after bluing so you don't stain the head of your bolt!;)
This works great when you reform brass (338-06) and don't want to grab the wrong cases next time you are resizing.

Noel
 
There may be some problems with using blue on brass. Depending on how far the chemicals penetrate, you may be altering the hardness of at least the surface.
 
LOOK ON : http://www.hosercam.com/
THEN CLICK ON SHOOTING PRODUCTS:

Do you lose too much brass even when you color the headstamp?

Add brightly colored stripes to the sides of your cases with the BrassMaster Double or the BrassMaster Single case striper.

With these stripes on the sides of your cases they will be easier to spot laying in the grass, gravel and amid other cases. You WILL get more of your brass back when the other shooters can easily identify YOUR brass.

A single turn of the brass in a BrassMaster case striper will put 1 or 2 colored stripes on your brass.

Uses commonly available MarksALottm colored marking pens. Normal brass cleaning methods (tumbling) removes the stripes. Does not affect firearm feeding, firing, or extraction.

Performs a final inspection during striping. A wobbling line indicates a high primer or case head burr. Split cases catch on the marking pen alerting you to a defective round.

Single stripers are DISCONTINUED
Double stripers are $19.95 + $3.00 shipping & handling
 
Why not? said:
Kool Aid works! Cleans brass very well, and as Proutfoo has said you can dye the brass any colour you want. :D

Ted

I just tried two batches, one with ice-blue and one with grape (since grape stains everything).

Not a hint of colour from either one after a day of soaking at high concentrations.

Disappointing. I was looking forward to collecting purple brass after shooting.
 
DMeNTED said:
Decided to do a quick search on google - looks like a lot of model builders (trains mainly) use cold blue to "blacken" brass...

Might see if it works...

I found a reference to brass "crumbling to a mass of salts" if improperly cleaned after blackening. So.... I'll pass on this method.
 
acrashb said:
I just tried two batches, one with ice-blue and one with grape (since grape stains everything).

Not a hint of colour from either one after a day of soaking at high concentrations.

Disappointing. I was looking forward to collecting purple brass after shooting.


That's too bad. Purple or blue brass and moly bullets would certainly have a distinctive look
 
prosper said:
That's too bad. Purple or blue brass and moly bullets would certainly have a distinctive look

huh...mine is off-yellow, I clean my brass in orange kool-aid and it darkens it quite a bit to an orangy color. I will have to post pics!;)
 
It is my understanding that these are all surface
coatings and should not damage or weaken the brass.
Obviously you will want to do this treatment with unprimed
brass. DO NOT USE METAL UTENSILS (ok maybe stainless steel)
Glass or Plastic containers are the preference.
If you are really worried about what this is going to do to your brass,
refer again to the reference section below.

TIFFANY GREEN:
Copper Sulfate.................8 ounces
Ammonium Chloride..............4 ounces
Sodium Chloride................4 ounces
Zinc Chloride..................1 ounce
Acetic Acid....................2 ounces
Water..........................1 gallon

VERDE:
Copper Nitrate.................16 ounces
Ammonium Chloride..............4 ounces
Acetic Acid....................1 quart
Water..........................1 gallon

GREEN:
Iron ( ferric) Nitrate.........2 ounces ( Fe(III)(NO3)3)
Sodium Hyposulphite............8 ounces
Water..........................1 gallon
(use at boiling temperature, brass can be immersed
or the solution may be "painted" on)

HARDWARE GREEN:
Iron (ferric) Nitrate..........1 ounce (Fe(III)(NO3)3)
Sodium Thiosulfate.............6 ounces
Water..........................1 gallon
(use at 160F)

RED:
Iron (ferric) Nitrate..........6 ounces (Fe(III)(NO3)3)
Sodium hyposulphite............6 ounces
Water..........................1 gallon
(use at 170F will speed up this reaction)

BLUE:
Sodium Hyposulphite............8 ounces Lead Acetate...................4 ounces
Water..........................1 gallon
(use at boiling temperature)
or
Lead Acetate...................2 to 4 ounces
Sodium Thiosulfate.............8 ounces
Acetic Acid....................4 ounces
Water..........................1 gallon
(use at 180F. This color will change if
not lacquered [DO NOT LACQUER FIREARM CARTRIDGES]
Take your chances with the color change.)

BLUE BLACK:
Copper Carbonate...............1 pound
Ammonium Hydroxide.............1 quart
Water..........................3 quarts
(Add the water after the carbonate and hydroxide
have been mixed. There must be excess Copper
Carbonate. Use at 175F. This color can be fixed
(made more permanent) by quickly dipping in a 2.5%# Sodium Hydroxide solution.)

BLACK:
Ammonium Hydrosulfide...........2.25 ounces
Potassium sulfide...............1 ounce
Water...........................1 gallon
(use at room temperature or COOLER for best results)

BROWN:
Potassium Chlorate..............5.5 ounces
Nickel Sulfate..................2.75 ounces
Copper Sulfate..................24 ounces
Water...........................1 gallon
(use at boiling temperature)

SAFETY:
1. NEVER taste any of these chemicals.
2. Keep very far out of the reach of children.
3. Most Nitrates are good oxidizing agents and
should not be stored with anything flammable.
4. Acetic Acid has a VERY strong pungent odor.
Use in well ventilated areas. This acid can
be airborne in vapor form. If you feel that
you have breathed enough of it to feel
uncomfortable, leave the area and drink a
carbonated soft drink. "Have a Coke" Do not underestimate this chemical.
5. Many of these chemicals may stain your skin or
clothing. Wear rubber gloves and protective
clothing including glasses of some sort.
6. Steam can cause serious burns. Solutions of salts
can actually exceed the boiling point of water.
The steam from these solutions can be very dangerous.
BE CAREFUL WITH STEAM AND BOILING SOLUTIONS.
7. Feel free to change concentrations for experimentation
purposes but do not change the ingredients in any
one recipe.
8. Always be fully awake and alert around chemicals.

CONVERSIONS AND INTERPRETATIONS:
Ounces are assumably troy ounces, even when dealing
with liquids or solutions. Do not use fluid ounces.
1 ounce = 31.103 grams = 480 grains
1 quart = 0.25 gallon = 946.4 mL
1 gallon = 3.785 L

REFERENCES:

Meyer, Walter R. title: Plating and Finishing Guidebook
ninth edition - 1940 pp.72-75 (cited)

Metal Finishing Guidebook twenty-eighth edition - 1960
article by Hall, Nathaniel title: Coloring of Metals pp. 477-479
(cited)

Krause, Hugo title: Metal Coloring and Finishing (not cited)

Hiorns, A. H. title: Metal Coloring (not cited)#
Field, S and Bonney, S.R. title: Chemical Coloring of Metals (not cited)
-Royce


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Proutfoo said:
drop your brass in a glass of kool-aid and let it soak for a few hours. (unloaded, of course :rolleyes: )

You will likely be the only one with purple or mango-coloured brass when the shooting stops :D


I knowthis may be obvious to others but when you soak the brass in Kool-Aid do you use the Kool-aid with the sugar added from the tub or do you just use the little packets that you have to add your own sugar to and is just the color and flavor??

Thanks guys
 
acrashb said:
I just tried two batches, one with ice-blue and one with grape (since grape stains everything).

Not a hint of colour from either one after a day of soaking at high concentrations.

Disappointing. I was looking forward to collecting purple brass after shooting.


I tried 3 colors here. Nothing either.

Ron R
 
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