Marlin 1893 38-55

hamilton0729

Regular
Rating - 100%
83   0   0
Hello All I have recently been given a Marlin 1893 in 38-55 and have some questions. But first lets see some pics. Serial number dates it to 1902 number is 248 ###







Ok now that we got that out of the way here are the questions.

1. I was also given a box of new production Winchester Super X ammo is it safe to shoot the new ammo in a gun this old?

2. Looks like it has been either re-blued or touched up before (badly) would I be hurting it to do a rust bluing on it?

3. I did some research and it seems like a good short range deer gun and that it what I would like it for do you see any problems with that?

Thanks for Looking Cheers Mike
 
As far as modern ammo, Winchester fodder is usually quite weak, but...long time dead & blown up rifles are very sad.
Short range deer gun...quite acceptable.
As far as restorative work...patience. See if it'll shoot first. The metal seems scarred on the left side of the reciever and the wood seems sanded ( the metal seems proud), so if it shoots...perhaps clean it up. But these old guns look great old IMO
BP is easy to reload ( full case...always...FG or FFG, hold off on the BP subs...trust me on this), a press and dies are about 250 $ I'd think. The 'Full case' takes the powder measuring requirement off of the table.
I've a plethora of 38-55 cases, PM me and I'll get you hooked up with a 20 pack should this be the way you go.
Easier to get a local to run off 10-15 rds in BP and meet you for a session to est. whether it'll shoot.
Likely it will; I've a 38-55 Win 94 that makes you barf in your mouth a bit when you inspect the bore. 6-8 deer down from this old gun at this time.
Nice score
 
Reloading is arguably the "fun" part in shooting antiques. It is a hobby that takes on a life of it's own and is necessary whether you are only into antiques, or shootin' competitively. It is not a big mystery just something to spend some time, thought and due diligence on. Tokguy's offer is generous and it would put you ahead of the curve I'd think.

The old Marlin's are heavily underrated and seem to be quite behind the Winchesters in terms of collectability - but I can see them climbing the ladder as we move into the 21st Century, and as more information is learned about those early Marlins. Pick up a copy of Col. Brophy's book and enjoy...
 
How long is the barrel? Standard 1893 rifle is 26 inches long. In the pics yours looks shorter. If it hasn't been cut it could be a special order rifle. Worth looking into and if it is, that would be a NO on the refinish job.
 
If it's 20 1/2 it has probably been cut. Usually special orders were round numbers in length. Measure the distance from the muzzle to the front sight dovetail and compare it to an original. Drift the front sight out and check for file marks in the dovetail or that the dovetail is blued. Check the muzzle out to see if the face of the muzzle looks rough or crowned, it should be flat on a 93 rifle.
 
I had a Marlin 1893 in .38-55 that was really accurate with the old CIL jacketed 255 gr bullets at 1600 fps. You can load cast bullets to match that or even better it. Under 100 yds it is a killer!

The only trouble with cast bullets is that the bores on .38-55's vary so much that you have to slug your barrel to make sure you get the correct diameter bullet.
 
If the rifle is in good shape then it is perfectly safe to shoot with modern factory cartridges. Modern Winchester ammo is loaded to the same pressure levels it was back when your rifle was new. IF you rifle is in proper condition the ammo will not hurt it.
 
If the rifle is in good shape then it is perfectly safe to shoot with modern factory cartridges. Modern Winchester ammo is loaded to the same pressure levels it was back when your rifle was new. IF you rifle is in proper condition the ammo will not hurt it.
I have a marlin 38/55 too the barrel says black powder , how can you tell if it is the short brass or longer brass 38-55? A seller at a local gun show told me mine was shortened and the bluing is to good to not have been reblued at some point, really nice though, even if it isn't worth a bunch!
 
What do you mean by "short brass". There is only one length of case in a .35/55 as far as I know. The OP was wondering if his barrel was shortened. Maybe the seller was saying your barrel had been cut off. The standard Marlin 1893/93 rifle length was 26 inches from bolt face to muzzle.
 
What do you mean by "short brass". There is only one length of case in a .35/55 as far as I know. The OP was wondering if his barrel was shortened. Maybe the seller was saying your barrel had been cut off. The standard Marlin 1893/93 rifle length was 26 inches from bolt face to muzzle.
One is called 38-55 wcf and is 2.08 in length and the other 38-55 and is 2.125 long! Check rustywoods site it shows both, not a lot of difference but I don't want to order the wrong ones, although they are pretty close, maybe one of for a worn out chamber or something��. I believe the 2.08 would be the normal length. mine being black powder only I wonder if it is ok to use vp replacements?
 
What do you mean by "short brass". There is only one length of case in a .35/55 as far as I know. The OP was wondering if his barrel was shortened. Maybe the seller was saying your barrel had been cut off. The standard Marlin 1893/93 rifle length was 26 inches from bolt face to muzzle.

Taken from M. O... I believe it was Wet Dog. ... He claims Winchester 38-55 brass is now manufactured the same length as .375 Win, a tad shorter ( .105") than other manuf. head stamped 38-55 (still at Saami specs).
 
I was thinking old .38/55 cases but that is correct the new production is shorter cased and I believe the bullet diameter is smaller as well. The old ones usually don't shoot well with the new ammo as it is difficult to seat the bullet out far enough and the old rifles were usually around .380 diameter bores.
 
Welcome to the wonderful and confusing world of .38-55 :D

Having a couple of rifles in this caliber I've run the gamut of bore size and brass length variations.

First off Starline does indeed make both lengths of brass. And without trying the cases or casting the chamber it's hard to say what any particular gun is chambered for. But from the reading around it appears that many of the older single shot rifles used the longer 2.125 while the later lever rifles went over to the shorter 2.08. Given the birth date of your Marlin the odds are good that it's set up for the 2.08 length. But it would be worth chamber casting to be sure. Or just shoot the 2.08 stuff and live with the slight gap. It's sort of the same as shooting .38Spl from a .357Mag gun. The fit and shoot just fine. But there may be a crud ring formed in the chamber over time due to the shorter casing.

And the .375Win brass is indeed another roughly tenth of an inch or so shorter than the 2.08 38-55 brass. So it will chamber just fine. And in a 2.08 chamber it does mean that you may need to adjust the bullet seating depth to ensure it fits the elevator and feeds in neatly. So longer and heavier bullets may be required if your Marlin proves to be sensitive to OAL during cycling and you still want to use .375 brass.

I've got the worst of both worlds on one barrel. The chamber is sized to take the shorter 2.08 casings and set up for .379 size bullets. But the bore wants the older and smaller .376 bullet size. So in playing around to find what works best I bought some .375Win brass so I'd have thicker walls to better center and seal the small bullets. The plan to work with the shorter yet brass is to try some home cast 300gn bullets that are longer so I can seat the bullet in the neck fairly well and still have the ogive resting against the leade. The key for your Marlin here is that .375Win casings do add another variable to be aware of.

In your case I would still suggest you slug the bore. This is pretty easy. You put a soft lead round ball on the muzzle then pound it into the bore with a plastic or wood mallet then punch the slug down with a close fitting wood or brass dowel or some such thing. Then a cleaning rod will push it down and into the chamber where you can retrieve it for measuring.

The old gun crowd has a lot of folks that enjoy using smokeless as well as the ones that shoot BP. There's a wide variety of low pressure smokeless loads that will do just fine and be safe in that Marlin provided there isn't any pre-existing damage. My own favourite is an 18gn load of 4227 behind a 255gn cast bullet. I've shot these with no packing but recently I loaded up some with a printer paper over powder card with a small tuft of polyester pillow stuffing to hold it in place. I've yet to shoot the loose and packed loads together for accuracy comparison. I do know that when I drop in that 18gns of powder it looks like a LOOOONG way down to the charge. So the idea of the paper separator and tufting is to hold the powder consistently back by the flash hole for a more consistent burn.

These loads push the cast bullets I'm using along at around 1300 fps. So shooting out past 150 yards or so becomes a largely "rainbow" like affair. With jacketed bullets and once the barrel and chamber is proven to be sound you should be able to up that to around 1700 to maybe 1800. But watch your peak pressures in this old girl. It's not a modern Marlin Guide Gun that'll accept over powered 45-70's. And I would sure not want to shoot any modern .375Win from it. Not even on a dare.


That's a very nice looking old classic. Hopefully you get it running well. My own feelings are that this is old enough and in good enough shape that I'd be highly reluctant to re-blue it. I'd probably just use the oil and steel wool trick to smoothen up and blend in the rust spots I see and call it a day. If the goal is to hunt with it I'd also use some nautical spar varnish to fill in any cracks in the present finish. I'd likely also apply boiled linseed to the end grain in the action inletting areas of both the fore and shoulder stock and under the recoil plate. Again to aid in weather resistance for the old girl.
 
Last edited:
Thanks BC rider that explains the 2,,, wait,, now 3 types of brass,so for my 38-55 with black powder written on the barrel, will it be ok to use bp replacements as you suggested to the OP.
By the way OP sorry for a slight hijack here but it is hard to find the right info on these rigs and it may be painfull to get the wrong info so when someone has any facts they want to share or can guide us to the book/people who can help, well we have to take advantage!
 
Thanks BC rider that explains the 2,,, wait,, now 3 types of brass,so for my 38-55 with black powder written on the barrel, will it be ok to use bp replacements as you suggested to the OP.
By the way OP sorry for a slight hijack here but it is hard to find the right info on these rigs and it may be painfull to get the wrong info so when someone has any facts they want to share or can guide us to the book/people who can help, well we have to take advantage!


NO WOORIES its all good info for myself as well I'm working towards reloading some BP rounds to try out and will keep my eyes open for some lead to slug the barrel. I have decided not to refinish it Apparently my grandfather refinished it years ago so I will just "preserve" his work BC rider thanks for that Lindseed trick I will do that for sure.
 
Back
Top Bottom