Marlin 1894
- Thread starter KnightofCydonia
- Start date
There's a few differences between the 1894 and 1894C .357
First the obvious. You will enjoy greater stopping power and more hunting options with the 1894. The 1894C will be cheaper to handload for, and DRAMATICALLY cheaper to shoot factory loads in .38 spec. The 1894C is an inch and a half shorter than the 1894, but holds one less round in the tube.
1894's can be had in stainless where 1894C's cannot.
Now somethings you may not know. The 1894C can be scarce as hens teeth to find either new or used. It can command up to twice the price used as an 1894. Many older 1894's have micro-grooved rifling, which some find less desirable for cast bullets.
If you are considering purchasing an 1894 I would suggest buying one in .44
There are plenty of them on the EE, usually reasonably priced. I searched for over a year for my 1894C, but sometimes I wish I just would have bought an 1894GS. Good luck whichever way you go.
First the obvious. You will enjoy greater stopping power and more hunting options with the 1894. The 1894C will be cheaper to handload for, and DRAMATICALLY cheaper to shoot factory loads in .38 spec. The 1894C is an inch and a half shorter than the 1894, but holds one less round in the tube.
1894's can be had in stainless where 1894C's cannot.
Now somethings you may not know. The 1894C can be scarce as hens teeth to find either new or used. It can command up to twice the price used as an 1894. Many older 1894's have micro-grooved rifling, which some find less desirable for cast bullets.
If you are considering purchasing an 1894 I would suggest buying one in .44
There are plenty of them on the EE, usually reasonably priced. I searched for over a year for my 1894C, but sometimes I wish I just would have bought an 1894GS. Good luck whichever way you go.
Hunting, cowboy, or just range fun? 38/357 would be better in a range/cowboy rifle I would believe. 44 for hunting, although the 357 would get the nod as a short range deer rifle in the thick stuff under the hands of a capable person too, especially with reloads.
Personaly i'd love to get a .454 16" barreled rifle. 45colt for plinking/practice, and the mighty .454 for hunting..
Personaly i'd love to get a .454 16" barreled rifle. 45colt for plinking/practice, and the mighty .454 for hunting..
back40sniper
CGN Regular
- Location
- South east Sask.
My micro-grooved barrel shoots cast just fine. Maybe because its a 41 Mag 
700-800 taxes in new.
I've seen them go on the EE used for as little as 400$. Most deals to be found are on older micro-grooved models. All of my Marlins that I handload cast for are Ballard, I have no experience with micro-groove. I can't see a problem however as long as you "slug" the bore and size accordingly, but some folks avoid them. I want to purchase an older 336 in the near future so I'd like to hear from anyone who loads cast for their micro-grooved Marlin.
I've seen them go on the EE used for as little as 400$. Most deals to be found are on older micro-grooved models. All of my Marlins that I handload cast for are Ballard, I have no experience with micro-groove. I can't see a problem however as long as you "slug" the bore and size accordingly, but some folks avoid them. I want to purchase an older 336 in the near future so I'd like to hear from anyone who loads cast for their micro-grooved Marlin.
Edward Teach
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- who cares?
I've got a microgroove barrel on my 30-30 and it shoots cast bullets OK as long as they're sized a couple of thou bigger. .308 jacketed translates into cast bullets needing to be sized at .310 or .311, otherwise I might as well bring a shotgun. Marlin owners has threads that discuss this at length.
Why is the Marlin 1894 so much more expensive than the 336? It's smaller and uses less materials. What's the reason?
Is it better to have a 336 or 1894? I wanted an 1894 cause it's smaller and is cheaper to shoot than 30-30. Is it worth it to dish out the extra money for an 1894 over the 336?
Is it better to have a 336 or 1894? I wanted an 1894 cause it's smaller and is cheaper to shoot than 30-30. Is it worth it to dish out the extra money for an 1894 over the 336?
Suka
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Supply and demand. I'm guessing budget is a concern. What I can tell you is some calibres are harder to find, and some are more popular. 30-30 is as common as dirt, and if you are patient and watch the EE you can get a nice rifle for I'd say between 250 and 400.00.(decent winnie 94 to nice 336)
I'd kinda like a 38-55, but not bad enough to pay what they're worth. I just closed a deal on a really nice .375win. "big bore"(94) for the wife instead.
To compare reloading costs, look up loads for each caliber. If I remember right, there's 5000gr of powder in a lb. that sells for around 32 bucks. Primers are neglegible, and jacketed leads cost between 25 bucks for 100 and 50 bucks for 50 for "general" leads. The bigger the diameter the bigger the price. Check the prices of the leads for the calibres you're considering.
If I remember right it costs between .25 and .28c/shot for my wife's 30-30, and up to about 1.70/shot for my 450(with htg bullets).
There's a saying in racing, "speed costs, how fast do you want to go?" Sorta same applies to shooting.
You've got the info from all the above answers that if you do your own research and calculations, you'll find what you want.
Let us know what you end up with and how you make out.
I'd kinda like a 38-55, but not bad enough to pay what they're worth. I just closed a deal on a really nice .375win. "big bore"(94) for the wife instead.
To compare reloading costs, look up loads for each caliber. If I remember right, there's 5000gr of powder in a lb. that sells for around 32 bucks. Primers are neglegible, and jacketed leads cost between 25 bucks for 100 and 50 bucks for 50 for "general" leads. The bigger the diameter the bigger the price. Check the prices of the leads for the calibres you're considering.
If I remember right it costs between .25 and .28c/shot for my wife's 30-30, and up to about 1.70/shot for my 450(with htg bullets).
There's a saying in racing, "speed costs, how fast do you want to go?" Sorta same applies to shooting.
You've got the info from all the above answers that if you do your own research and calculations, you'll find what you want.
Let us know what you end up with and how you make out.
Suka is correct, supply and demand dictates the price of 1894's. I can tell you for a fact Marlin only runs a specific amount of 1894Cs per year and most go to american distributors who are almost always on backorder. The 336 is a Marlin staple with lots in circulation. Quality and function-wise the 336 and the 1894 are the same. I bought my 1894C for one reason and one reason only...because I wanted the shortest OAL in the Marlin lever action that I could get. It rides in my Eberlestock scabbard and man it points and cycles like lightning!. I load a 185gr Beartooth bullet real warm and wouldn't feel undergunned in the least bit if I had black bear troubles.
Knight, tell us if you handload and what your intended purpose for your rifle will be. I think we're getting to the nitty-gritty now
Edward Teach
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- who cares?
They make a nice lever action .410 too, but what are the odds of ever seeing one of those in Canada?
BC Bigbore
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- BC's Peace Country
Mine's the stainless .44mag 1894 that I picked up in a raffle at work for $100 in tickets Fun little gun that I might even try to take on more than just targets with one day. With the amount I shoot it currently, I'll just stick to factory ammo.
Fun little gun that I might even try to take on more than just targets with one day. With the amount I shoot it currently, I'll just stick to factory ammo.
Mine's the stainless .44mag 1894 that I picked up in a raffle at work for $100 in tickets
very nice!
