Marlin 1895 GBL

GMC403 said:
You'll be fine. All the new ones are sub-par compared to the older JM's.
The true "lemons" are gone now. As far as being rough, Cycled a new Ruger M77 stainless lately?
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You do what you want.
It's your money but no way I'd buy a Remlin sight unseen.

Some will ruin a gun and then try and dump it on somebody else.

Lots of the old junkers still in the pipeline and once salvagable guns that have been ruined by those who tried to fix them and didn't know what they were doing.
Much harder to fix than the factory defects are the amateurish attempts by some to fix the guns themselves.

One guy musta read about the virtues of disassembly and polishing and got a little overzealous with the files and stones because the gun that was handed to me was a loose pile of junk.
Told my friend that he needed a whole laundry list of new parts to replace the ones that had been mostly reduced to filings by a ham fisted amateur gunsmith with a file.
He got the parts and I fixed the gun.

When smoothing a gun be a metal mizer and only remove the burrs, NOTHING ELSE.
Once metal is removed it won't grow back.
 
I'm not so much worried about aesthetics. I hunt so reliability is my concern. I'll throw the happy trigger kit and bear proof ejector on then see how I like the sights before I buy a rail and ghost sights.
 
Gunoholic said:
You do what you want.
It's your money but no way I'd buy a Remlin sight unseen.

Some will ruin a gun and then try and dump it on somebody else.

Lots of the old junkers still in the pipeline and once salvagable guns that have been ruined by those who tried to fix them and didn't know what they were doing.
Much harder to fix than the factory defects are the amateurish attempts by some to fix the guns themselves.

One guy musta read about the virtues of disassembly and polishing and got a little overzealous with the files and stones because the gun that was handed to me was a loose pile of junk.
Told my friend that he needed a whole laundry list of new parts to replace the ones that had been mostly reduced to filings by a ham fisted amateur gunsmith with a file.
He got the parts and I fixed the gun.

When smoothing a gun be a metal mizer and only remove the burrs, NOTHING ELSE.
Once metal is removed it won't grow back.
Click to expand...

Yeah like I said I won't be doing any of that myself, I have a good smithy who I intend to drop off the firearm to and polish anything that may need to be polished as well as install my trigger and ejector. I understand people's scepticisim when buying new "remlins" and how they don't make them like they use to (they don't make anything like they use to, bottom line) but really the thing will shoot and I could really care less how it looks. I'm not a collector my guns have purpose. Thanks for the advise though, might be helpful one day.
M
 
The OP found what he wants at a price he was willing to pay, and I hope there are no issues with his new rifle.
If there are, that's what 600grit and a warranty is for.
 
MKFrancis said:
I'm not so much worried about aesthetics. I hunt so reliability is my concern. I'll throw the happy trigger kit and bear proof ejector on then see how I like the sights before I buy a rail and ghost sights.
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If your gun is being bought new (no amateur gunsmiths have had a chance to f'k it up) and has been manufactured in the last couple of years then you're probably going to be OK.

I like to strip a new Remlin right down but some who are a little "tool shy" just work the shyt out of the action until it smooths out.
They do this by cycling the action several hundred times while watching a Clint Eastwood or John Wayne duster in front of the TV.
I call this self polishing.
Any contact parts that have burrs will self polish thru normal wear.

If the burrs are not on contact surfaces or in a place to interfere with cartridge movement during cycling then their presence or absence is irrelevant.
Burrs on the carrier or in the throat of the chamber or where the tube magazine joins the receiver can interfere with the cartridge during cycling and should be removed.
 
The GBL I picked up, came with a long eye relief 2-7x32 Hi-Lux scope. A little more in the way of magnification than I'd choose for a rifle like this but that's what it came with so I'll use what I have at present. The mount arrangement it came with wouldn't allow me to move the scope far enough forward so I replaced it with a Marlin 1895 Lever Rail Sight System from Brownells.



The system comes with a replacement front sight



and a rear peep



that, with the scope removed, allows a line of sight above the rail for use of the open sights.
 
GMC403 said:
The OP found what he wants at a price he was willing to pay, and I hope there are no issues with his new rifle.
If there are, that's what 600grit and a warranty is for.
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Remington/Remlin customer service - I've had several experiences with them but I won't go there.
I'm keeping my fingers crossed that all will be OK out of the box.
 
Gunoholic said:
X 2

Looks a lot like a X/S sight and rail.
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I forgot to mention, in line with some of your comments concerning quality, I admit, it definately isn't as smooth as my old 'Marlin '94 in .44-40, my 444S or my 1895GS.;)Almost like I've had it sitting too close in the gun safe to a pair of Zastavas I have:). However, no function problems or difficulties, yet, so I'll use it as is, for the time being anyway.
 
Johnn Peterson said:
I forgot to mention, in line with some of your comments concerning quality, I admit, it definately isn't as smooth as my old 'Marlin '94 in .44-40, my 444S or my 1895GS.;)Almost like I've had it sitting too close in the gun safe to a pair of Zastavas I have:). However, no function problems or difficulties, yet, so I'll use it as is, for the time being anyway.
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Tuning up Remlins and Rossis makes great projects when the winter doldrums are getting you down.

When they come out of my shop they're so smooth they will almost cycle themselves.
Just did a Remlin 336SS and a 1894 in 44 Mag that I'm going to keep.

I've redone a few with the Boyds stocks and hand checkering and they are even better than the old JMs.
The newer stocks are pretty decent walnut.
I just sand off the laughable Remlin "shadow" checkering and rechecker them myself.

Some get overzealous with the filing and stoning and take off too much metal and the action becomes too loose and sloppy which can be dangerous.
Just nip off the conspicuous burrs and then polish smooth with a very fine stone or emery paper.

I've done several Rossi 92s and a Rio Grande or two in 30-30, .410 gauge shotgun and 45-70.
Be especially careful fixing the Rossi rifles because Taurus won't sell you new replacement parts.
 
Gunoholic said:
Tuning up Remlins and Rossis makes great projects when the winter doldrums are getting you down.

When they come out of my shop they're so smooth they will almost cycle themselves.
Just did a Remlin 336SS and a 1894 in 44 Mag that I'm going to keep.

I've redone a few with the Boyds stocks and hand checkering and they are even better than the old JMs.
The newer stocks are pretty decent walnut.
I just sand off the laughable Remlin "shadow" checkering and rechecker them myself.

Some get overzealous with the filing and stoning and take off too much metal and the action becomes too loose and sloppy which can be dangerous.
Just nip off the conspicuous burrs and then polish smooth with a very fine stone or emery paper.

I've done several Rossi 92s and a Rio Grande or two in 30-30, .410 gauge shotgun and 45-70.
Be especially careful fixing the Rossi rifles because Taurus won't sell you new replacement parts.
Click to expand...

If you have an 'Island' address, I just may drop in to your shop.
 
Johnn Peterson said:
If you have an 'Island' address, I just may drop in to your shop.
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Ontario (my Canadian residence) I'm afraid and too close to the GTA for comfort.
I've got several shooting/hunting friends that come for a visit and just happen to have;) a busted gun and a sob story with them.
I treat the guns like crossword puzzles cause I kinda like doing the work.
Just tell them what materials I need if any and $20 an hour flat rate for my time if it's an "involved" repair.
Most of the fixes I can do in minutes right in front of them during the visit in which cases I don't charge them anything.
Had a quarter of cow moose delivered to my doorstep last fall which was nice from a guy I tuned a couple of BLR triggers for.
 
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