Marlin 1895 lever jamb when not upright?

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WetCoast

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So I have a Marlin 1895 SBL. Great gun. Super handy.

When I cycle the action slowly with the gun upside down it will jamb just as the lever unlocks. No jambs when I cycle it fast. This occurs with the gun empty and full. If it flip it back upright, the lever will cycle again.

Before anyone asks "Why do you want to shoot upside down?" I don't. The scenario where I first noticed it was when it was slung on my back and the lever clicked open. When I reached around my back to click it closed: no luck! Unslung the gun, and it still wouldn't cycle open or closed until the receiver was very upright. Basically once jambed it needs to be completely upright to "unjamb."

I have a couple of ideas as to to what is occurring. Any Marlin types that can point me in the right direction?

I am interested in the mechanics of this, not merely sending it in for warranty.

Thanks!

WetCoast
 
Sounds like its the Locking Bolt sticking. When the gun is upright the bolt will fall easier during the cycle of the action. My guess is that it could use a polishing or quick filing on the sides to let it glide smoother in its socket.

seen it many times, quick fix.
 
There are internal parts ( the locking lug as already mentioned) that require gravity to fully operate as designed...the initial lever movement releases the lug from battery position but then drops the rest of its travel by gravity. with the gun upside down the lug is only released by the bolt but can't continue its fall that is required. It remains down, out of conflict with other moving parts until the rest of the action cycling takes place and the upstroke of the lever returns it to battery
 
Thanks guys, good advice. Makes sense. Now all I have to do is figure out which particular contact point is binding when gravity isn't assisting. Thanks for vastly narrowing my search!

WetCoast
 
Disassembling and polishing the recess in the bolt as well as the locking lug should solve the problem. If it's binding it's usually from a rough finish on the lug.

 
Polish the spots indicated very lightly ( crocus cloth only) as every thou you remove at these points increases headspace. Aggressive metal removal with any type of power tool here is not a good thing.
Personally I would be more suspicious of milling/cutter marks left in the frame where the lug travels.
 
Every Lever in my gun room will always JAM when not fed upright. This is normal what is going on with your Marlin

Some of the reasons why they are never the most trustworthy rifle when things get hairy while hunting or as a battle rifle
 
It seems this thread mirrors the general discussion of this type of jamb on the Marlin. Some say it is normal. Others say they can cycle their Marlin at any angle.

What I can tell you from my experience is that the advice from GMC403 and fingers284 was bang on. Some fine (1500 grit or so) sandpapering on the surfaces where the lug contacts the bolt and the bolt itself made a big difference. There were also a couple galling spots on the inside of the receiver that revealed themselves when I put some Sharpie on the locking lug. My guess is the issue is about 90% solved now. I can still duplicate the jamb but I have to really work at it and the gun has to be completely upside down.

To quantify the change: before, it was necessary for gravity to assist the lug direction for it not to jamb when cycling super slow. Now, gravity is not necessary as it cycles perfectly when held laterally and cycling super slow and that is a BIG improvement. My last step will be to remove the remaining corner case where it still happens without removing any measurable amount of material.

Thanks again for the advice AND the diagram gents. Very helpful in getting me informed enough to get this piece of machinery (close to) operating as it should.

If anyone else has this issue: remove the hammer and the carrier when disassembling. Reinstall the lever back in the trigger guard plate. Now, with only the extractor, bolt and locking lug installed, reinstall the trigger guard plate and lever as a unit. The rear screw for the hammer/trigger is a PITA until you get the hang of it. Compress trigger spring from rear to get it lined up to install the screw and a Q-tip is perfect to push out the screw. The re & re of the trigger guard plate will happen many times to slick everything up while minimizing metal removal so you will get good at it.
 
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