Marlin 336 and Uncle Mike's QD Swivel

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eros1976

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As part of my restoration, i drilled into my stock to add a swivel stud. Following the instructions, i've made the 2 different size holes and screwed down the swivel. The only problem i have now is that the white (it actually a little yellowish, which sucked) rind that fits on the swivel stands proud of the curve of my gun.

I'm at that point where I feel turning it another half turn to sink into the wood further may actually split the stock (she's good and tight right now)

Any ideas on how to proceed?
 
Alrighty...

I finally got an idea to break out a chisel (unfortunately, not the right type for this job.. more the style to prep a door latch)... carefully, cut the wood where the ring should sit. Drilled down a little deeper... cleaned it all up and put the thinnest layer of wood filler on the one edge.

Added some linseed oil to clean up the sanded portions and voila... Looks pretty good. I'll post pics shortly
 
Tried to drift it out, but I don't have the tools to do it... Also set it back far enough to clear the bikini covers. When the scope was ahead of the sight, i had to lean way too far in to shoot comfortably.

I never felt in danger of getting a scope kiss when I shot it... but yes, she's set an inch or so too far to the rear.

I plan on drifting the sight out and moving the scope forward... also looking at getting a larger buttpad to provide a little more distance from the shoulder. (this was a hand me down from my dad... )
 
If it is not too late, a little trick I like to do will keep the wood in the area strong where you drilled. Remove the stud once again, and fill the hole with CA glue (any crazy glue) and let dry. Then reinsert the swivel. This of course would work the best if you did not happen to get much of your linseed oil in the hole. I do this on all holes I drill in wood and have to put a screw of sorts into. The glue will wick into the wood fibers surrounding the hole. This also works well for stripped screw holes in wood.
 
Gun was a staple of mine as a bush runner when pushing moose or deer through the woods. That, and years of use are what put the gun in the shape it was in anyway. I also took most of the action apart and filed down some of the friction points and rough edges. It cycles with much less force than it did in the past. Great gun for shorter range hunting (less than 200 ish yards)
 
I guess you didn't realize that white plastic inletted in the stock from the factory was the ideal place to install the swivel stud...
 
It's a little late but the 336 comes with a spot to drill swivel. See that little white round thing forward? That scope is going to be problematic to your flinch reflex and hold/ position. I suggest a gunsmith if you do not have the tools.
 
fraserdw said:
It's a little late but the 336 comes with a spot to drill swivel. See that little white round thing forward? That scope is going to be problematic to your flinch reflex and hold/ position. I suggest a gunsmith if you do not have the tools.
Click to expand...
Are you talking about the beloved "bulls eye"? That's not to show a swivel location lol. It's my understanding that the bulls eye is installed to show the stock is walnut and not another type hardwood. At least that's what I've been told.
 
eros1976 said:
I read that the Marlin never intended that plastic piece as the location for the swivel.. hence the new hole.
Click to expand...

Maybe they did not intend it, I don't know - but it is located in the perfect place. If it was centered on the stock line I always installed customers studs in that location... if it was off the the side I moved away...
 
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