Marlin one piece firing pin.
- Thread starter Buster95
- Start date
Yes to both the one piece firing pin and spring kit. It's also worth getting rid of or disabling the safety button if you are using the gun in CAS competitions. On both my 357 and 45 Colt changing the above with a bit of polishing was like having a smith give the gun an action job.
Chuck
Chuck
Hope I'm not pushing the train off the track with this:
Just to have a lever gun again, I bought my 3rd Marlin a while back, an early 1950's vintage 336 RC. I previously sold both my 1893 SRC & 1895 and gave my son my Dad's 1940's Model 94 Winchester.
I keep hearing about replacing the 2 piece firing pin, trigger, extractor, ejector & springs, but never heard the specifics of why.
Would anyone teach this old bugger the specific reasons & benefits thereto, as it relates to a hunting weapon, please?
I don't shoot CAS or anything like that, so would it be necessary for hunting? I used to use the half-#### safety on Dad's old Winchester.
Thanks.
Just to have a lever gun again, I bought my 3rd Marlin a while back, an early 1950's vintage 336 RC. I previously sold both my 1893 SRC & 1895 and gave my son my Dad's 1940's Model 94 Winchester.
I keep hearing about replacing the 2 piece firing pin, trigger, extractor, ejector & springs, but never heard the specifics of why.
Would anyone teach this old bugger the specific reasons & benefits thereto, as it relates to a hunting weapon, please?
I don't shoot CAS or anything like that, so would it be necessary for hunting? I used to use the half-#### safety on Dad's old Winchester.
Thanks.
I don't have a safety on my 1951; just the half-#### notch.
Aren't all the after-market springs lighter, specifically to make it faster for the CAS folks?
Aren't all the after-market springs lighter, specifically to make it faster for the CAS folks?
fingers284
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Alberta Cowboy Ranges
I hope the OP is talking about an 1894 Marlin because basically all the changes the OP asks about are to facilitate cowboy shooters to shoot their Marlins as fast as the short-stroked 73's , if you just want to "hunt" the gun or plink with it the changes will make it an "easier to operate" gun with little practical benefit to the owner.
Looky touched on the reason for the one-piece firing pin and I will explain that a bit further. First of all the spring changes are required to make the pressure required to work the lever and #### the gun a LOT easier. Changing the lever catch plunger spring and the main spring are just a start to this process, coils from the lighter springs can sometimes be removed to "help out". the next thing you might notice when cocking the gun is that there is a definite "drag" when the bolt pushes the hammer back the last few mm before you hear/feel the sear engage the hammer notch. If this is "bothersome" to what you want to achieve in ease of operation for competitions then you will have to remove some of the metal from the lug on the bottom of the bolt or from the nose of the hammer...both work but be VERY CAREFUL here not to remove too much, if you do your gun wont #### and your heading to a real good tig welder to have some metal put back on.
Now after all the work you've done on the springs( and smoothing all the mill marks from the bolt and polishing the ejector where it rubs the bolt track) it is time to consider why you need the one piece firing pin. When you remove all of the effort that is needed to #### the gun you have also diminished the hammer strike force to the pin. When your springs are reduced to the standards most Cowboy shooters want them to be they will only fire Federal primers reliably ( I will say here that if your gun still fires other brands of primers reliably, meaning 100%, then you still have some room to lessen spring tension). The two piece firing pin will further lessen the strike force to the primmer and a one piece is a straight forward one piece hit that most guns that have the "full meal deal" done to them require.
Looky touched on the reason for the one-piece firing pin and I will explain that a bit further. First of all the spring changes are required to make the pressure required to work the lever and #### the gun a LOT easier. Changing the lever catch plunger spring and the main spring are just a start to this process, coils from the lighter springs can sometimes be removed to "help out". the next thing you might notice when cocking the gun is that there is a definite "drag" when the bolt pushes the hammer back the last few mm before you hear/feel the sear engage the hammer notch. If this is "bothersome" to what you want to achieve in ease of operation for competitions then you will have to remove some of the metal from the lug on the bottom of the bolt or from the nose of the hammer...both work but be VERY CAREFUL here not to remove too much, if you do your gun wont #### and your heading to a real good tig welder to have some metal put back on.
Now after all the work you've done on the springs( and smoothing all the mill marks from the bolt and polishing the ejector where it rubs the bolt track) it is time to consider why you need the one piece firing pin. When you remove all of the effort that is needed to #### the gun you have also diminished the hammer strike force to the pin. When your springs are reduced to the standards most Cowboy shooters want them to be they will only fire Federal primers reliably ( I will say here that if your gun still fires other brands of primers reliably, meaning 100%, then you still have some room to lessen spring tension). The two piece firing pin will further lessen the strike force to the primmer and a one piece is a straight forward one piece hit that most guns that have the "full meal deal" done to them require.
