Marstar BushRanger 7.62x39 part 2

Ganderite

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Tonight I took the new Norinco 7.62x39 Bushranger apart.

The balance of the action was wiped clean of that oil it was dipped in before shipping. The magazine was easy to disassemble and clean.

The bolt locking lugs are blued, so it is easy to see where they are bearing. Bot lugs are showing contact. This is promising. After the rpeminary test fire i will lp the lugs for more contact.

The scope bases and the action screws were only finger tight. There was no LokTite on the scope base screws. Why they were installed on the rifle I don’t know. The 5.56 rifle came with the scope bases in a small baggie. If a scope is installed on bases without tight screws that have been LokTited, it is just a question of time before the rifle suddenly shoots much larger groups for a reason that may not be obvious.

The barrel was cleaned. A shocking amount of crap came out. I believe the rifle was test fired and not cleaned before the oil dipping. I will lap the barrel after the preliminary grouping of the rifle “out of the box”. It was slugged at 0.312”. No 308 bullets for this little puppy.

The recoil is transferred from the action to the stock with a steel plate bolted latterly across the action. I don’t know how snug and uniform this plate mates with the action recoil lug. After the preliminary test firing I intend to bed the action and will pay special attention to bedding the recoil lug/plate.

The good news. The trigger is indeed “fully adjustable” as advertised. I think I see screws for overtravel, weight and sear engagement. I won’t touch a thing, because it is perfectly light and crisp.

The bad news. The little booklet/brochure packed with the rifle does not mention the trigger adjustments. It should. I predict that most owners will want to adjust the trigger and will twiddle each screw, trying to figure out which does what. I have frequently seen lighter triggers achieved by setting inadequate sear engagement. If I figure out the trigger on my 5.56 (It desperately needs adjustment) I will publish some notes.

The stock can be re-finished with some steel wool and Tung Oil, to give a better looking and more durable finish. Unfortunately the stock came with a rather severe dent on one side and a crack caused by wedging action of the action in a location by the safety where there was inadequate wood relief. Hopefully it can be glued.

AT only $279, all this rifle has to do is go BANG to be a bargain. Next step is to install a scope and fire som preliminary groups, before the rifle is tuned up a bit.

Stay tuned.

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I've had a JW-103 for a while. Mine has a 0.311" bore and a 1:9.5 twist. The fast twist will stabilize 200+ gr bullets, so it's a good platform to do subsonic development, but the mag only allows an OAL of 2.220", and the throat doesn't allow much longer with most bullets, so for heavy bullets, you'd need RN.

I get 2 MOA at this point and without bedding (the action-stock fit is cavernous) it won't likely improve. The gun is strong enough, but has a very cheap feel. It's a $279 gun after all....
 
I used to make subsonic ammo for a canned 308. I found 2400 to be an excellent powder for mild loads.

I will be pleased if i can get 2" for starters. I would hope that whetever the first groups are, bedding will improve them.

Then I get to do it in the 5.56. Anyone reported who it will do? I don't suppose it will stabalize SS109 ammo??
 
It is a pine stock. If used as a bush deer rifle, it will get beat up pretty quick. The trama of the first dent is avoided this way.

I am more concerend about the rifle being tested with corrosive ammo and shipped dirty than I am the stock. I am hoping Marstar picks up on this and advises the manuafacturer.... although I expect dealing with the Chinese is somewhat futile, anyway.

So far, it is worth more than the $279 I paid. Next step is to see if it shoots.
 
My Instructions have it

"The bad news. The little booklet/brochure packed with the rifle does not mention the trigger adjustments. It should."

I was starting to clean mine last night and the last page of the instruction book has which screw is which for adjusting the trigger, my pages were stuck together pretty well and only by chance did I find the last page. I will try and get a scanner running and post the last page if needed.

My experience so far is that I ran out of brake cleaner trying to get the mystery oil off, and I think I am going to have to take the whole thing apart and bath everything.

My stock is in better shape and my trigger pull is nice, almost to light but I am hoping after a proper cleaning and lubing things will work better. I want to figure out how to take the bolt apart because no matter how much brake cleaner I spray there is brown stuff coming out. And judging how well the brown mystery oil/crap is hanging up the followers on the magazines I want none in my bolt.

Be advised that there is a locking screw on the bottom of the bolt that was almost falling out of mine.

Overall though I am really happy. Once I get the crap cleaned off I think it will be a lot of fun at the range. Looking forward to spending the winter bedding and redoing the stock finish on this one.
 
I checked that sceew on my bolt. it was tight. I assume you back off thenscrew and then unscew the rear assemply.

I agree with getting it out of the bolt. I guess I will take it apart, too. In cold weather that oil could gum up the firing pin enough to cause missfire. I like bolts either dry inside, or with a little Break Free.

Glad to hear your trigger is good. I wonder if all the 7.62 triggers are good? I will check the brochure. Maybe my pages are stuck together, too.

Look forward to seeing your shooting results. Can you test at 100 yards in the winter?
 
Chinese usually manufacture copies of other rifles. Anybody know what the JW103/105 is a copy of ?
Also a small point, mine says BUSHRANGER not BUSHMASTER.
 
Will be out with it this weekend.

Hey Ganderite,

I will be out with it this Sunday to try with some surplus. I could not get the action out of the stock tonight, any ideas? I didn't really reef on it as I don't want a crack like yours. I will post my results.
 
Not a Mini-Mauser. I have one of those, and it is a turnbolt with front locking lugs. This bolt does not turn. It is more like a 22. The locking lugs are on the same piece as the bolt handle, at the back.

If it is a copy of something, it is a scaled up 22 LR action.


To take action out of stock, remove the action screws, one in front and one at at tang. It should life out easily. If it is tight, it is wedged, like mine. Some wood needs to be removed so it does not wedge.
 
I didn't see part 2 of your review.. I posted a question for you regarding the condition of the bore & chamber on your JW-103... because mine wasn't so great, lol (see your other thread, please). Thanks!

:)
 
You say that you are going to lap the bolt lugs to get better contact? I hope you have a set of head space gauges. Lapping lugs is something you you do when the barrel is off, because it often means setting the barrel back a thou or two to maintain safe headspace. What you are doing when you lap the lugs is lengthening your chamber and possibly creating unsafe dimensions. I would recommend checking the headspace on all rifles coming over from china before shooting.
 
You fellows mentioned the action is pressed and pinned into the receiver. I have been looking at one in 5.56 to rebarrel to 7.62x25. If the barrel is pressed and pinned, I will forget it. Where did you find this information? I would really like to know before I purchase one.
 
To me it really looks like the barrel is pinned.No threads visible in the front action screw hole or the front scope mount hole,but you can see the barrel shank.Also appears to be a cross pin just behind the recoil/action hole lug.Grinding marks on opposite sides of the lower action at the lug.
 
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