Martini Henry 'browning'

john@

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Found this on the interweb:

http://www.martinihenry.co.uk/ said:
All metal components were subjected to “blueing” or “browning” as a protective coat, the following recipe for “browning mixture” is taken from an 1890 Martini Henry armourers manual.

Acid, Nitric…6 1/2 oz
Steel, Tincture of…3oz
Wine, Spirits of….5oz
rain water1 gallon
I'd like to try my hand at browning something, anyone ever try this mixture?

I imagine you'd use it just like you do the modern blueing stuff, degrease, steel wool the existing finish off, apply the solution, wash it off, polish with steel wool, reaply the solution a second time, etc... Similar to what is described here:

http://www.surplusrifle.com/carbinenagant/reblue/index.asp

What do you think?
 
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I will start by saying that using Birchwood Casey would be many many dollars cheaper than buying the chemicals separately. Bluing is more or less a rusting process and done in a series of layers with carding with steel wool between applications in order to avoid pitting. Something not mentioned in the description above is how long the solution is left on the metal parts. With the solution you listed above, I use a variation of it and rust for about 12 hours between carding and would expect to take 2 to 3 days of total rusting time for a bluing job. I also pour boiling water on the metal parts after each carding to change the red rust to black rust. Rust is iron oxide and iron oxide exists in a variety of ratios of iron and oxygen with different properties to each

cheers mooncoon
 
There is book "Firearms Bluing and Browning" by Angier. More information than you ever wanted to know about the older processes. Something to keep in mind that in former times "browning" meant what we would now call "bluing".
 
It is worth noting that most of the rusting solutions in Angier use mercuric chloride as a key element. Even though you use only a small amount, there is a minimum order of probably around 1/2 lb and considering that 10 years ago, mercuric chloride sold for about $100 per lb plus being difficult to buy, it is expensive. Unless a hobby gunsmith was doing an awful lot of rust bluing, they would be well advised to used an off the shelf product.
I believe most guns today are blued using the hot salts method which involves a heated trough filled with molten salts (not table salt) and is quite temperature sensitive to get the correct colour. Again not something an amateur is likely to try. It also cannot be used on double barrel guns or anything with solder joints on them.

cheers mooncoon
 
You could always try Radocy Express Rust Bluing. I've had good results and it's simple to use.

Taken from PJ's Website:

"Rust Bluing with Radocy Products
Q - Is the Radocy Rust Blue an Express or Slow Rust Bluing solution?

The Radocy Rust Blue is an Express solution that gives a beautiful blue-black finish. The metal must be degreased and thoroughly cleansed before going into a hot water tank. The process begins by heating the metal in boiling water then applying the well-shaken solution. The metal is then re-heated to speed up the oxidation or rusting. The rust is then brushed off with steel wool. The procedure is repeated until the correct colour is achieved. This method is excellent for double barrel shotguns as it does not weaken the solder.

Note: Slow rust bluing produces the same result as the Express approach but uses humidity and therefore is a time-consuming process. In the wild world of bluing, both Slow and Express Rust Bluing generally give the most durable finish and offer the option of controlling how dark or light the finish is on the firearm."
 
I've used Laurel Mountain Forge, many times, and it is so simple to use. You can get it from Track of the wolf or thegunworks for $8 USD, and you'll probably never use it all.
This is a rifle that I did "Plum brown".

browningbarrels003.jpg


Cheers nessy.
 
Hot caustic bluing uses a strong solution of sodium hydroxide (lye), and a nitrate, either sodium, potassium or ammonium. Boils at about 295 degrees F; in addition to heat burns, caustic burns are a real risk.
Then there is hot water bluing, like the Radocy, or humidity cabinet bluing (slow rust bluing), which also involves boiling and carding. The Radocy hot water bluing is quite easy, and produces worthwhile results.
Browning can be done rapidly, using something like Birchwood Casey's instant brown, or slowly, with a cabinet.
 
Martini Henrys were blued, not browned. The old historic documents will refer to it as "browning" but it is bluing. I have the original formula that was used on the M/H's. It is somewhat similar to the one you have. Unless it is a real mess and has been altered anyway my advise would be to leave it alone. Good Luck! Dave
 
I do a lot of bluing/browning on modern repros like Cold Steels Tomahawks.
I bought their 40$ Norse hawk ,stripped off the awful black paint ,blued it ,gave it a good edge and even did some file work with the dremel. The difference it made was amazing!

Another really clever use of bluing was on a new SwampRat knife blade.
They are 52100 carbon steel but with a thick coating. However the logo is the absence of coating like a stencil. My friend blued the logo and the excess just wiped off the coating and it worked perfect.
 
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