Matchlock Mechanism

[maple leaf]

For some reason I had the idea that I need another winter project. I have decided to try and make my own matchlock mechanism from scratch. I know this will be a challenging project.

I have some limited pictures of locks from museums and old line drawing of various locks from the 1500's as a guide. However, I need some assistance. Specifically, how the return spring and flash pan are attached to the mechanism lock plate itself. Are these forge welded to the plate? Anyone who has a matchlock, would you be able to post some pictures of your locks to help clarify this for me?

Thanks in advance for any help. I will post pictures if I am successful in this attempt.
cheers

 

[chasseur]

Most early matchlocks had the pan either forged welded or dovetailed on the barrel,later ones had it cat as part of the lock or used a screw to attach it to the lock plate.Go to the rifle shoppee web sight and you can see pics of the matchlock locks etc.

 

[tiriaq]

The earlier guns had the plate attached to the barrel - for example the CA1620 fishtail butt European musket in the collection of the ROM. A longitudinal dovetail would be appropriate. You could also just solder the pan to the barrel.
Later guns, like the ones from the latter part of the 17th century (England CA1680-90) had the pans attached to the lockplates. The locks on these late guns extended to the top of the stock, just like a flintlock. Earlier guns, the lockplate is a simple flat strip, doesn't come anywhere near the barrel or upper edge of the stock. You could use screws from the inside, or rivets.
The lockspring could be attached with a screw.
The flashguard is assembled to the pan by a screw down through from the top. The flashpan cover pivots on this same screw.
One thing that I noticed when I handled the ROM's musket was that the thumbscrew in the serpentine pushed the jaws open, didn't clamp them shut.