Mauser 1895 bolt exploded view

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d4dave1

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Does anyone either have an exploded view of a Mauser 1895 bolt, or a link to find one? I have done some Google searching but can only find Mauser 98's and 96's.

The 1895 bolt that I have will not allow the safety to move from the fire position. I have disassembled and cleaned the bolt but it was pretty clean to start with, and when I re-assemble I can put the safety in either the up 12 o'clock position, or on safe, but as soon as I move the safety once to the fire position it seems locked there. Close inspection shows that the cocking piece is not moving far enough forward by a fair amount to allow the safety to engage. The distance needed is beyond what stoning or polishing would accomplish.

Mauser 96 bolts show only a firing pin spring, but Mauser 98 bolts show a bolt sleeve stop spring and a firing pin spring. I would like to know if I am missing a spring for the 1895??

Thanks for any help.
Dave​
 
It sounds like either some of the parts aren't original, or somebody has been grinding away at the sear nose of the cocking piece. Rounding off the top of the cocking piece where the safety engages, or grinding a bit off the camming portion of the safety, or both would likely fix the problem.
 
Thanks for the link to Numrich.

To be clear the safety would not function when I first purchased the rifle so my disassembly did nothing to change that problem. The bolt functions fine with the safety unable to lock.

The cocking piece is about as round as round can get, and the cam portion of the safety appears identical to photo's of the safety's that I can find on the internet. While it doesn't appear that anyone has been grinding on anything I cannot rule that out as this is my first exposure to this model of rifle.

I have read some posts about touching up the back of the cocking piece and/or the cam on the safety but it is only to remove burrs when clearances become tight. This cocking piece needs to move ahead ~ 1/4 of an inch to properly engage. If I remove the bolt and hook the edge of the sear on something solid them pull down I can get enough clearance to properly move the safety through all 3 positions.

Is it possible that cumulative wear over many years on all of the bolt parts has added up to this issue? I am inclined to think that a previous owner played mix and match with some surplus parts.

Does anyone know if the firing pins between the various Mauser models are interchangeable or if they are different in length? My thinking going that perhaps the firing pin length is incorrect?​
 
If you have bolt properly assembled then you have mismatching Cocking Piece or firing pin or both.
It is very possible to put Mauser bolt together to manifest above described symptoms.
 
So I managed to find the following information on the Mauser 1895 from a couple of dedicated Mauser web sites.

Firing pin - Total length 6.826 inches
Front 1.682
Rear 5. 144

Extractor - Length 4 3/16 inches
Width 13/32
Side area with groove 7/32
Groove width 3/32

Same page says that the 1895 bolt is the same as the 1893 bolt except the 95 bolt has a rounded bottom on bolt face.

I cannot find a correct length for the cocking piece at this time. The search will continue.

Hoping a link to a useful Mauser information site is permissible?

http://www.hoosiergunworks.com/catalog/mauser_reference.html​
 
The cocking piece may be a bit too far ahead and the safety leaver is not able to get past the forward edge of the cocking piece to cam it back away from the sear. This clearance between the cocking piece and the sear is very important. If the trigger is pulled with the safety on, the sear must be able to slide back into position to block the cocking piece after the trigger is released. If there is not enough clearance the sear will hang up and the gun will fire when the safety is released.
A small bevel sometimes can be ground on the edge of the cocking piece to give the safety a bit of a ramp to start camming the sear back. This job should only be done by someone who understands the mechanics of how the safety works.
 
hart said:
The cocking piece may be a bit too far ahead and the safety leaver is not able to get past the forward edge of the cocking piece to cam it back away from the sear. This clearance between the cocking piece and the sear is very important. If the trigger is pulled with the safety on, the sear must be able to slide back into position to block the cocking piece after the trigger is released. If there is not enough clearance the sear will hang up and the gun will fire when the safety is released.
A small bevel sometimes can be ground on the edge of the cocking piece to give the safety a bit of a ramp to start camming the sear back. This job should only be done by someone who understands the mechanics of how the safety works.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the clarity. That is pretty much the conclusion I have come to after multiple times taking the bolt apart and studying the mechanics of it. The cam portion of the safety is coming down on top of the cocking piece round portion well ahead of where it should in order to be able to cam the cocking piece forward. The cocking piece appears to require another 3/16" or more ahead for the cam portion of the safety to be able to come down on the beveled portion of the cocking piece round part.

I am hesitant to grind anything off because that is not how the original parts were meant to function as well as my research has found a couple of people that ground too much off which they claim causes the gun to fire as soon as the safety is moved.

I used a caliper and measure all of my bolt parts today while it was disassembled and they all match the proper measurements as posted earlier. The only measurement that I do not have is the correct overall length of the cocking piece. Mine measures 1.1625"

The only thing that I can see on this bolt that is different than a factory bolt is the bolt handle/knob. It is obviously not a Mauser bolt handle/knob but a very good job has been done welding it to the bolt.

At the end of the day it would be easy to add a Timney or Bold trigger with a side safety and that would solve the safety issue. But I would like to reassure myself that the safety malfunction is not symptomatic of a larger problem with the bolt and I am one of those people who likes to solve the riddle.​
 
If the sear surfaces, on either the cocking piece or trigger have been modified, could move the cocking piece too far ahead for the safety to function.
 
hart said:
If the sear surfaces, on either the cocking piece or trigger have been modified, could move the cocking piece too far ahead for the safety to function.
Click to expand...

That is kind of where my thinking is at now. Once I have a correct overall length measurement for the cocking piece then about the only variable left is the sear surfaces. I had a look at the trigger and the entire assembly looks pristine, almost as if new.

Just for poops and giggles I compared it to a Mauser 96 trigger assembly that I have on hand left over from a build. They appear very close. But the main reason for comparing was to look at each sear and compare for wear/modification. There does not appear to be any difference on the trigger sears. That leaves the cocking piece.​
 
d4dave1 said:


No time frame at all. Thanks a bunch for even doing it!​
Click to expand...

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Well I took my bolt apart again this morning. My cocking piece measurements are the same as your gunrunner100. I also measured just the sear portion of the cocking piece total length and it is 16.48mm

While I had the bolt apart I stripped the gun completely down to study the trigger etc. The trigger appears clean and tight but I noticed what looks suspiciously like a Swedish crown mark on it. Should a crown of any description appear on an 1895 Mauser? There are no other crowns anywhere on the firearm except the top of the follower in the magazine.

This rifle has sure been a puzzle.​
 
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Just finished doing some more research. I now have the strong suspicion that the entire bottom metal and trigger are not from an 1895 Mauser but are from a Swedish 1896 Mauser.

One of the things I noticed in my research is that the 1895 Mauser will close on an empty magazine without depressing the follower like you have to do on the Swedish Mauser 1896. The rifle that I have will NOT close on an empty magazine and I have to depress the follower the same as an 1896 Swedish Mauser.

This could explain why the safety will not function because if the bottom metal and trigger are not from an 1895 Chilean Mauser the fit may not be the same. It would also explain why the follower and trigger looked so familiar to me (I have re-built multiple Swedish Mausers) and why they both have that Swedish Crown mark on them.

The stock is an aftermarket custom stock so that might explain why the bottom metal matches up enough to fit.???

Any comments anyone?​
 
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