Mauser 1895 bolt exploded view

The bottom metal will have no effect on how the safety works,as long as it is from a 95 or 96.. The 95 and 96 Mausers are basically the same dimensions. The fact that follower blocks the bolt is only due to the shape of the follower at the back, allowing it to rise higher with an empty magazine to block the bolt.
I don't have a 95 so can't say for sure, but I doubt that a 95 trigger is different than a 96.
 
The bottom metal will have no effect on how the safety works,as long as it is from a 95 or 96.. The 95 and 96 Mausers are basically the same dimensions. The fact that follower blocks the bolt is only due to the shape of the follower at the back, allowing it to rise higher with an empty magazine to block the bolt.
I don't have a 95 so can't say for sure, but I doubt that a 95 trigger is different than a 96.

Thanks for the feedback hart! I really appreciate hearing from people that have some Mauser knowledge because mine is thin at best.

While I am aware that the bottom metal itself will not impede the function of the rifle my thinking was that IF it is the incorrect bottom metal that perhaps it may force the trigger sear forward or back just enough to change the two sears line up causing incorrect line up for the safety to engage. OR, if the measurement of the length of a 95 Mauser trigger sear is different than a 96 trigger sear??

As I have mentioned, at the end of the day I don't THINK that any of this will cause a significant problem for the rifle other than an inoperative safety. But it is a puzzle that I would like to solve in order to get my OCD to stop itching....lol​
 
If you have a 96 Mauser, measure the difference in the distance that the cocking extendes out of the bolt sleeve with the bolt cocked, first with the safety off, and then with the safety on. What you are measuring is how far the cocking piece is cammed back from the sear when the safety is applied.
Now do the same with your 95. If they are close to the same your safety is probably hanging up on a too square of an edge of the cocking piece. A little metal will have to be removed where the interference is.
Some times a very slight bevel is required just to the right of top dead center of the cocking piece, to give the safety lever a place to start camming the cocking piece back.
 
Shortly after I started researching this problem I bumped into some recommended Mauser books, one of them being The Mauser Bolt Actions - A Shop Manual by Jerry Kuhnhausen. I found it on Amazon and ordered it and today it arrived so I have some reading to get done. Hopefully the book will shed some light on what is happening with this rifle.

I am about 50 pages into a 225 page book and the detail is amazing and covers all Mauser bolt actions from the M91 through to the M98 and most variations.​
 
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