Mauser 98 questions

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cyberdoggie

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Can the extractor on a mauser 98 be changed to close on a round that was just slide into the chamber and not feed in from the clip.

Can there be anything to done to the triggers ? It has a really long travel I don't like it. Is there new ones available??

Thanks
 
#1, yes, that is the normal state of affairs. It may need an extra push on the bolt handle; but the extractor should snap over the rim. It is possible, when installing a new barrel, to fit it so the extractor won't snap over; but in my view that is a mistake.
#2, yup again. Go to Brownells.com and search for "mauser trigger" and you'll get some info.

Or go to this http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=89073 thread.
 
I think the extractor shape has a bit to do with it as well. Most of the time, M98 extractors will snap over however it may be a little hard and alarming the way one has to bang the bolt forward.

Some people have their extractors modded(or some rifles come as such) so that the extractor jumps over easily. Parker Hale, I believe, is one such company that did that when they were producing rifles.
 
I'm not sure, but I think the Springield '03 was the only military rifle with a claw extractor to be able to feed a round without having a cartridge pushed into the magazine. As far as I know the Mausers were meant to be loaded by the stripper clips. When I shot my M48 I just pushed the rounds into the magazine one at a time while firing.

Midway or Brownells sell different Timney triggers for the various Mausers that are quite good. I've actually bought one recently to install in a Yugo M48. I don't like the long pull either.

Good luck!
 
Once you get used to it, the extractor is not a problem. Even on any of my other rifles I load to the mag even if I am just single loading. If you want to load directly to the chambre, just squeeze the extractor with the fingers of your left hand as you chambre the cartridge. This will cause the extractor to lift enough to clear. Timney triggers are available in a cpl of different versions and are a great upgrade to the stk triggers. Other after market triggers such as Bold and Can-jar are also available. Western Gunparts in Edmonton has them.
Enjoy your Mauser, they are a fine fire-arm.
 
Chamber feeding a Mauser is a good way to snap
the extractor in two.
 
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feed from the mag and save yourself a broken extractor. Timney triggers work very well in the 98 and can be in your gun for around $100
 
ACKLEY ABE said:
If you want to load directly to the chambre, just squeeze the extractor with the fingers of your left hand as you chambre the cartridge. This will cause the extractor to lift enough to clear.
Click to expand...


Of my controlled round feed rifles Brno ZKK 602, Parker Hale 1200, Win pre 64 mod 70 only the Winchester will jump the rim fairly easily .... I'd never do it on purpose since you're just asking to break the extractor.

I use my Parker Hale (in 243) for target only and I've gotten rid of the blind mag (which didn't feed anyway) and now I have a plate that I drop rounds into. If i bugger up and the claw pushes the round ahead instead of the bolt face and I don't notice it means that now I have to either push the loaded round out with a cleaning rod (which is always on hand) or I have to push which means that it takes part of the rim off on the way over, not a good choice.

If that 243 didn't shoot so amazing I'd only shoot Mauser extractors when you are loading from the Mag.

On my BRNO or Parker Hale there is no way that my fingers are going to have any effect on that hardened thick extractor.

I've thought about taking a bit off the over hang on the ext. on the Parker Hale but since it's normally only me that shoots it and I've figured it out the hard way what can happen It's normally not a problem. If I could snap my fingers and make that bolt a push feed I would.

... Abes finger trick might work on those mini "Mausers" like the old BRNO ones in 22 Hornet etc.
 
Has anyone ever actually broken a mauser extractor this way? I'm not talking about an urban legend type friend-of-a-friend sort of thing.
 
Definitely! They are not designed to snap over the rim.

Have also had cases jammed in so tight ahead of the extractor that that was the end of using the rifle until I got back home. :(

Ted
 
I have broken an extractor on a Swede 96 but never on a 98.

Have also modified both so they would slip over the case rim, carefull grinding will let is slide over the rim but you loose some of the extraction ability although I have never found this to be a problem as they are designed to drag a case out under extreemly poor conditions.
 
Whats the advantage of loading a single round in the chamber by hand?

It seems: It takes longer and you are bypassing the box mag.

Is this the better or worse mouse trap design doing it one at a time?

Clue me in - I'd like to know.
 
Just relieve the back of the extractor a bit where it makes the bend and perhaps touch up the claw slightly.
Keep using the original trigger and build up under the trigger where it normally contacts the sear with some JB. A simple fix for the trigger that was designed to never fail. Why replace parts that don't need replacing.
 
FWIW, I have used timney and Bold before, but after using the Dayton Traister, I'll never go back to the others. Adjustable, simpler, and all made of steel - not Aluminum. I highly recommend cheking them out.
 
Splatter said:
Or for loading rounds that are too long for the mag.
Click to expand...

That's where I bring out the Dremel and grind the mag box a new A** Hole to fit those extra long gopher round cartridges! :eek:
 
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