Mauser 98k question?!?
- Thread starter Nexice
- Start date
Some tend to lean towards early war or weimar k98k's, because the actions are smoother and the overall finish is better. However k98k in general are very smooth and great to shoot.
PS mil. has early dated RC k98k's for sale.
PS mil. has early dated RC k98k's for sale.
Nexice said:
In my opinion, 1939 K98's (JP Sauer and Oberndorf) are the best of the war (slightly pre-war) years, but be careful ........ very careful...........
This particular genre are so loaded with fakes and repros, you need a very sharp eye to ensure you aren't getting taken. I always run any purchase of a wartime or earlier k98k through a number of members on here, as well as send lots of pics and details off to a few recognized expert collectors in the U.S. If I'm buying post war rebuilds and captures, I don't bother as they've been altered anyway during the refurbish process.
Your looking for an early piece, so here's a link to one of Milsurp Knowledge Library - German Sectionhttp://www.milsurps.com/forumdisplay.php?f=15 "righteous" K98k's that's perfect and all correct.
1939 147 JP Sauer K98k manufactured by JP SAUER und SOHN GEWEHRFABRIK, SUHL
(Click PIC to Enlarge)
1939 147 JP Sauer K98k (lots more more pics ... click here)
Notice the detailed match of the components and particularly the fonts used. This was an early 1939 rifle, so there was a lot of attention spent on details and parts marking. The later years, ie: byf 1944 were less marked, but there's a great Collector Grade Publications book, called "Backbone of the Wehrmacht (The German K98k Rifle, 1934 - 1945) by Richard D Law", which shows what should be marked and with what WaA numbers on all individual components for each manufacturer and by individual year.
If you find something you want to buy and if you provide pics, I'm sure a lot of folks here would be happy to help you out with feedback.
Hope this helps.....
Regards,
Badger
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Coyote Ugly
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Nexice said:
If it's a Russian Capture you are looking at for shooting, get one with the best bore you can find as the "date and maker's stamp" won't make it shoot any better if the barrel is poor.
The only thing that might match on a RC K98 is the barrel and the receiver, as all the other parts on it are totally mismatched.
I bought a RC from Milarm, took it home and got that cheap russian finish off of the furniture. Man you should see her now. Underneath was a beautiful walnut stock just waiting to be freed. I put a few coats of true-oil on her and it is a thing of beauty. Shoots pretty nice too. A little high at 100m But I can deal with that. I had it at the range on Sat, and a few people were really impressed with it's looks.
I think you can see it under my profile pic if not I will post a pic for you.
I think you can see it under my profile pic if not I will post a pic for you.
So if I'm going to get a RC mauser the markings dont really mean much (other than apperance) to value since all the parts are miss matched anyways. So, any one have a fav manufacturer and does the manufacturing date matter??? Pre war better than post war???
It really depends what you are buying it for. If you are collecting for future value, then sure get others in on your purchase to verify complete authenticity. If it's just to enjoy, I'd be more inclined to find one in near mint or very good condition even if it's been altered or with mismatched bolts. Some of these historical correct pieces are worth quite a few bucks, but are in down right ugly condition. Just my opinion.
I personnally prefer the laminated stock version like K98ACTION has. I have a BRNO Mauser similar to his rifles. Although the bolt is a forced match, it's still a great and beautiful rifle in near mint condition. (It was in the packing grease when my dad bought it 50 or so years ago.)
It sure is an accurate rifle. My only complaint is I find the stock a bit short and have to force myself to keep my head back and straight instead of leaning in on it. The M38 Swedish Mauser my dad owns, has a better stock in this respect and all around I think the Swede is a better shooter.
I personnally prefer the laminated stock version like K98ACTION has. I have a BRNO Mauser similar to his rifles. Although the bolt is a forced match, it's still a great and beautiful rifle in near mint condition. (It was in the packing grease when my dad bought it 50 or so years ago.)
It sure is an accurate rifle. My only complaint is I find the stock a bit short and have to force myself to keep my head back and straight instead of leaning in on it. The M38 Swedish Mauser my dad owns, has a better stock in this respect and all around I think the Swede is a better shooter.
BadgerDog said:In my opinion, 1939 K98's (JP Sauer and Oberndorf) are the best of the war (slightly pre-war) years, but be careful ........ very careful...........
This particular genre are so loaded with fakes and repros, you need a very sharp eye to ensure you aren't getting taken. I always run any purchase of a wartime or earlier k98k through a number of members on here, as well as send lots of pics and details off to a few recognized expert collectors in the U.S. If I'm buying post war rebuilds and captures, I don't bother as they've been altered anyway during the refurbish process.
Your looking for an early piece, so here's a link to one of Milsurp Knowledge Library - German Sectionhttp://www.milsurps.com/forumdisplay.php?f=15 "righteous" K98k's that's perfect and all correct.
1939 147 JP Sauer K98k manufactured by JP SAUER und SOHN GEWEHRFABRIK, SUHL
(Click PIC to Enlarge)
1939 147 JP Sauer K98k (lots more more pics ... click here)
Notice the detailed match of the components and particularly the fonts used. This was an early 1939 rifle, so there was a lot of attention spent on details and parts marking. The later years, ie: byf 1944 were less marked, but there's a great Collector Grade Publications book, called "Backbone of the Wehrmacht (The German K98k Rifle, 1934 - 1945) by Richard D Law", which shows what should be marked and with what WaA numbers on all individual components for each manufacturer and by individual year.
If you find something you want to buy and if you provide pics, I'm sure a lot of folks here would be happy to help you out with feedback.
Hope this helps.....
Regards,
Badger
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Milsurp Knowledge Library (Click HERE)
The one I'm looking at is a R/C 98k made by J.P. Sauer und Sohn Gewehrfabrik, Suhl (147) dated 1940. I can not give any pics as it is on a website. I"m not expecting it to be a collector but I do want a great shooter and havea piece of history (even if it is a R/C) Is this one of the better makers and what price is reasonable???
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On an RC, all the maker is buying you is a receiver. All receivers are serviceable on the R/C's and the quality parts and fitting of a pre-ar model are irrelevant on an R/C due to the parts mixing. IMHO, just buy based on bore condition if you get an RC refurb.
Like the guys have said, no difference in performance/accuracy between manufacturers. I have never noticed that early war K98's shoot better than late war K98's, though they are certainly finished nicer. Ask the seller you are buying from to find the one with the best bore and go with that for a shooter. The rest of the stuff is window dressing. My latest RC (1937 S/42) with an excellent bore is a very accurate shooter.
Nexice did you buy an RC K98 Yet? Sorry I was'nt really paying attention to your question on some things to look for. Everyone is right regarding the shooting ability. Really no difference between years, or makers. Any factory that was authorized to manufacture mausers were QA, and QC'ed to death.
But with regard to RC Mauser one thing you can lookout for and want avoid at all cost. Is the one's that the pissed off Russian armourers had their hands on. What I mean is this. You may have heard of a peened out marking mauser.
Quite a few of the RC's had all those nice historical waffenampt and inspector symbols dented out with a peen hammer. You know think about it the armourer's were probably under orders to stamp out those markings as they show the Nazi eagle and swastika. And peened out they did.
But at the same time many many RC's have all orginal markings intact. Also remember the armourer's were just low soldiers. And what are low soldiers. Lazy and always complaining right. So after rebuilding millions of these rifles I'm sure once the officer heat got bored, they said the f**k with peening. Just a theory but hey make sure you get intact marking because they are tres cool.
Have a look at mine.
But with regard to RC Mauser one thing you can lookout for and want avoid at all cost. Is the one's that the pissed off Russian armourers had their hands on. What I mean is this. You may have heard of a peened out marking mauser.
Quite a few of the RC's had all those nice historical waffenampt and inspector symbols dented out with a peen hammer. You know think about it the armourer's were probably under orders to stamp out those markings as they show the Nazi eagle and swastika. And peened out they did.
But at the same time many many RC's have all orginal markings intact. Also remember the armourer's were just low soldiers. And what are low soldiers. Lazy and always complaining right. So after rebuilding millions of these rifles I'm sure once the officer heat got bored, they said the f**k with peening. Just a theory but hey make sure you get intact marking because they are tres cool.
Have a look at mine.
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K98ACTION said:
One of the nicest RC's I've seen .....
Thanks for sharing the pics...
Regards,
Badger
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MauserMike
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
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My RC isn't looking anything close to that (refinishing right now). Mine's definitely got some battle scars.
I found it was pretty easy to remove the blueing off the buttplate by submersing the thoroughly degreased piece into vinegar with some table salt added. Rub with steel wool and let it sit until the blueing comes off. Finally rinse thoroughly with HOT water, blow dry and re-oil immediately.
There's a nice Waffenampt visible too now on the buttplate. (flat buttplate style on this rifle - red laminate 1941 ERMA receiver)
I found it was pretty easy to remove the blueing off the buttplate by submersing the thoroughly degreased piece into vinegar with some table salt added. Rub with steel wool and let it sit until the blueing comes off. Finally rinse thoroughly with HOT water, blow dry and re-oil immediately.
There's a nice Waffenampt visible too now on the buttplate. (flat buttplate style on this rifle - red laminate 1941 ERMA receiver)
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Hey Skippy sorry for taking so long to reply. I used the acitone to take off the cheap crappy russian finish, then lightly sanded the stock with 150 grit basically what ever I had in the garage for sand paper. But the final paper I used was that very fine black emery paper. Then I put linseed oil on it with some true oil to finish.
All this did was bring out the original GERMAN ISSUE walnut grain. So in my mind no bubba here, only Freed the K98 FROM its russian captures
All this did was bring out the original GERMAN ISSUE walnut grain. So in my mind no bubba here, only Freed the K98 FROM its russian captures
