max safe pressure for a Garand?

flying pig

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Hey guys. Rifle is a Garand in 30-06. I have 165gr spitzers, federal 210 primers and H4895 that I'm planning to load with, according to Lee manual it ends up at 58,800psi. That's for a max load correct? Just makin sure its safe as this will be my first time reloading. (Obviously starting at the base load, just making sure the pressures will be safe).
 
That is a SAMMI max 30-06 load and I wouldn't run it through my Garand. My Hornady manual lists Garand specific loads and gives a starting load of 39.8gr of H4895 and a max load of 46.4gr with 165-168gr bullets.

I have found that my Garand loves 165gr SST's over 47.5gr of IMR4064 loaded to 3.330" OAL, giving me consistent 1 MOA performance with upgraded aperture sights at 100yds. This is a fairly mild 30-06 load by bolt action standards, it gives ~2650fps and doesn't beat the rifle to death. The deer shot with it so far have not complained at all.


Mark
 
@flying pig, things to keep in mind with loading for a Garand:

- firstly, you want to make sure you don't exceed maximum pressure. A load that is over max and unsafe in a bolt gun, is also unsafe in a Garand. Having said that, it is a good strong action with a solid 2-lug front lockup, so a max-loaded round is no more likely to blow up a Garand than (say) a Model 70.

- secondly, the gas system of the Garand introduces another consideration. The gas is tapped near the muzzle, and there is a long slender op-rod which cycles the action. If the gas pressure *at the gas port* is overly high, then the action will be cycled too vigourously and your op rod can get bent. This isn't *unsafe* ammo, you're not going to hurt yourself, but you could damage your rifle and obviously you want to avoid that.

- thirdly, even if ammo is safe in the sense that it's not going to blow up your gun, and safe in the sense that it's not going to bend your oprod, you might find that near-max or near-min loads don't cycle to your liking (perhaps the brass isn't thrown reliably clear; perhaps the brass is ejected too violently and the case mouths are badly dented). A well functioning Garand will eject its brass in a reasonably small "fan" in the 1-o'clock to 2-o'clock direction, with the brass landing within 6' or so.

Related to the second point above, you'll often see advice "don't use bullets heavier than ### in your Garand" (where ### is in the 165 to 170 neighbourhood). The issue isn't actually the bullet weight, the issue is the *kinds of powders* (and their charge weights) typically used in heavier bullet .30-06 loads.

A more useful guideline to powder selection would be, "whatever your bullet and powder combination, don't use more than ~50 grains of powder". That will serve to keep your gas port pressures reasonable. (I once worked up a moose hunting load for my Garand in which I used Nosler 220 grain Partition bullets and IMR-4064 powder. This is a relatively unusual powder/bullet-wt combination but you should be able to find some data for it. The idea behind using such a "quick" (for a 220) powder was to ensure modest gas port pressure. Charge weight was in the low 40s if I recall correctly. The rifle cycled reliably but not roughly and I had acceptably accuracy at 300 yards).

W.r.t. your specific components of 165 bullet and H4895 powder, those are excellent choices to use in your Garand. Some might want to warn you against Fed-210s in a Garand (Fed primers have very soft cups, the concern is that the floating pin of the Garand might fire the primer during the chambering of a round. I have used Fed-210s without problem but if you are the least bit concerned, just choose any other Large Rifle primer). Observe all the usual load development procedures and cautions, and to those add that your charge weight should not exceed 50gr and your action should not cycle violently.
 
Outstanding informative post, rnba-shooter!
An M-1 has its own set of rules, because of the nature of its action. Make darn sure that your loads chamber freely and cleanly. A hangup plus a soft primer like a Federal can result in an out-of-battery discharge - a situation that just doesn't exist in a bolt action rifle.
 
An M-1 has its own set of rules, because of the nature of its action. Make darn sure that your loads chamber freely and cleanly. A hangup plus a soft primer like a Federal can result in an out-of-battery discharge - a situation that just doesn't exist in a bolt action rifle.

Very good points to add, which reminds me of something else I should have mentioned:

It is *ABSOLUTELY* safety-critical to ensure that your primers are seated "below flush". Which this is the correct way to load ammo for all rifles, however a "proud" seated primer in a semi-auto presents a particularly real possibility of an out-of-battery firing (which will likely blow up the gun and which stands a good chance of causing real injury to the shooter).

Another thing to be extra-fussy about too when loading for a semiauto, is to make sure that your primers are not loose. Do not use such brass in a semiauto. A loose primer can float around and with a combination of bad luck can get you into trouble (conceivably an out-of-battery firing, even more likely the possibility of the primer falling out and jamming up the trigger group or some other part of the mechanism)


P.S. enjoy your Garand, they are lovely rifles. I don't shoot mine much any more but it was the first centrefire rifle I ever bought, it will always have a very special place in my heart.
 
Just like to add to rnbra comments. The type of powder makes a huge difference also in the pressure curve when considering the op rod and the gas system in general. I have an older NRA publication (1980's) that I scanned from Handloader that only recommends 5 powders because of there pressure curve to keep the op rod working correctly.

My garand loves imr 3031 that gives me about 1 1/2 " at 100 yards which is just fine with me. If anyone wants me to email the article just drop me a message with your email address. Not the greatest scan but you can still read it.
 
i just starting reloading for my garand as well.

from what I found on ar15, cmp, here and various websites, I went with 48 gr of imr 4064 pushing hornady 150gr with CCI large rifle primers.

using hornady's guidelines for 150 gr imr4064 for "normal" 30-06 loads- they stated that 47.9 grains would produce just under 2700 FPS.

they did not list imr 4064 for 150 for the "garand loads", but from reading here, I know that 4064 is a good powder choice.
 
I was in Cabelas in Marysville yesterday, talking to a staff member who reloaded for his Garand. And he told me about his extreme experience when he first loaded and his primers we high! Before he knew it the gun emptied it self because the floating firing pin ignited the high primers!! Be very careful, I finger check every primer I install, just to be sure this doesn't happen to me.
 
my loads are based on cmp loads 150gr hornady fmjbt 48.5 imr 4895 cci primers and fc cases got 1" groups out of it 100m with an un-cut op rod found no stress marks
 
Thanks for the info everyone. Doesn't seem like we get much to choose from component wise locally here and I wanted to support the local shops. That's why I ended up with the federal primers. I'll try them and if I don't like them or get so much as one hick up out of it they'll get used up in my LE's, which were also another reason for my power choice. Thanks for the advice, can't wait to see how the old girl likes hand loads!
 
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